Gannet Watching

I've never had the opportunity to watch Gannets feeding so close to the Kent coast as I did on Wednesday.   High tide brought them close into the Dungeness coast.   So with my new-found "skills" or lack of unfortunately, I tried a few flight shots.

They were rubbish, but at least you can see the acrobatics that these amazing birds go through to get their food.

Starting the dive

Stealth mode

Streamline

So streamlined this is the water as only the wing tips are showing!

Gannets showing that they really are the masters of diving!

Ghana 2019 - Day 8 Cont'd

So, after a very busy seven hour journey back to Accra it was time for our final dinner, and as we were homeward bound it seemed very apt to visit the DC10 Restaurant in the grounds of the airport.

DC 10 Restaurant

In a converted DC10, the entrance is the usual airport steps, then upstairs the lines of seats have been replaced by tables with airline seats around them.   The toilets are the original facilities - rather more cramped that the latest models!

For all the hype, it could have been a rather disappointing experience, but the food was lovely and it gave us a great end to a brilliant trip!


Now we are all back, working through the huge number of photographs and planning the next expedition.

Roger and Peter
Ignoring food and enjoying having a phone connection!!

Ghana 2019 - Day 8

The final day, and we only have time for a morning walk, then lunch and a seven hour trip to the airport and home.

Back to the original forest track which has served us so well.   This time to walk back down towards the town.

Timber, already cut awaiting its journey to the village

It was a leisurely morning, enjoying Yellowbill, and many Sunbird and Bee-Eater species, including Black and White-throated Bee-Eater.

More butterflies and odonata were photographed and as we sauntered back down the hillside, it was interesting to consider that when Peter first visited, not that long ago the forest extended to just outside the town, whereas now, we had driven and walked every day and only once managed to get to the edge of better quality forest.   Even that was being logged even if on a small scale.   One last look at the wetland, and it was time to leave for lunch and the journey home.

It would be great to be able to secure some protection for this forest, but without offering the locals an alternative income it would be impossible.   Projects to support local communities in realising that protection of species and wild areas can bring an income are starting to appear around the world, but in all too few numbers.

Walking along the lower track

the edge of town

Let's hope there is the opportunity in the future to save pristine forests and extend them, bringing eco-tourists to an area is one way to encourage protection and also give rural communities a viable living.

Ghana 2019 - Day 7

Today we decided to take a new track from a different area!  

Local Village

After a long drive on dirt tracks we got to a vibrant town, it looked like Friday was market day.   Directions were obtained and we ended up in a village where several people were keen to assist.   

Eventually a motor-bike taxi driver whose bike had a puncture offer to help as he could not work.   He knew everyone and they all wanted to stop and find out what we were doing,   It was great to be able to create a celebrity just by being there!   

He was keen to show his interest by pointing out birds along the way.   Butterflies he did not however understand at all. 

We walked for over two miles and were close but not really close enough to the forest for what we have in mind.  With no quick way in or hotel accommodation nearby, this is one for the distant future.

Mobile Ice Cream shop

They did have an ice cream man however, and we all enjoyed a well deserved cooling Fan Milk!

After a lunch break, we went further west  beyond the town to see if we could find another track into the forest.   After a couple of abortive attempts which included seeing two children falling off their bikes as they attempted to show off in front of the visitors - both unharmed I hasten to add; finding Guineafowl butterfly, and realising that we were better off at the "old" wetlands, we went back to our usual area.

Even though we had been there several times over the last few days there were still new things to find, including several new dragonflies, and interestingly a Water Monitor Lizard, Marsh Tchagra and amazingly, Greater Swamp Warbler - a real surprise!

Another evening meal taken outside under the stars at our hotel, with local food prepared especially for us under Robert's guidance, and then an early night before our final morning's walk.

Holy Prince Guest House

Ghana 2019 - Day 6

Our day started as usual at 6 am for breakfast.   This morning we sat outside the hotel.   As the light increased over 80 pied crow came out of roost, 14 whistling duck and 3 cattle egret flew over.    We also saw African pied wagtail feeding in the car park with grey-headed sparrow and little swift also putting in an appearance.

Back in the forest

Robert and Eric had decided that we could get the bus further along the track than yesterday, so we returned to try to continue where we ended yesterday.    This gave us a slightly easier walk and enabled us to try the wood cutter trail which  we had seen the previous day.  It looked like a stream might flow here in the rainy season, and as we walked along there were stranded fish and water beetles in small pools, presumably the water was protected from complete evaporation by the cool shade of the forest.

We reached the end of the trail and rested on some rocks, listening for birds, and discussing the plans for the next few days and how we could add to our knowledge of the area.

Re-tracing our steps we found some lovely butterflies including.    At one point I got so excited I tripped in a stone and landed flat on my face in belly-flop fashion on the ground.   I had also managed to land on my binoculars and relatively new camera.   Thank goodness all three survived intact, with dust and dirt everywhere but no bruises.

Oh, and I did see the glider which caused all the fuss!

As both Peter and Roger had found butterflies with their names, I decided i had to create my own wish list.   As Sue, Susan or Healey didn’t seem to appear on the checklist.    I went for "waggle wing", the smallest butterfly you ever saw, and lucky me - we found one later in the day.     They almost look like a small bud in a delicate plant, but as they sit they waggle their wings from side to side - delightful!

Setting into a pattern, lunch was followed by a trip to try to find another access to the forest but after much driving around, asking locals, who are helpful but never seem to agree with each other, we managed to find another area of old gold mining on the other side of the town.   It looked like it would be nearer to better quality forest, but our old enemy ‘access’ threw a rather large wet spanner in the work.   The path was totally flooded and too deep to walk without wellies.   The good news is that we had great views of two children falling off their bikes - both unharmed I hasten to add - and a guineafowl butterfly.   Added to which, in drier times this did seem to have potential for access in the future.

White-throated Bee-eater

We returned to the larger wetlands mining area from the previous day, but accessing from the road we used to get to the forest.   This brought us along what appeared to be a main access for workers to and from farms and tree felling areas.   There were people moving in both directions the whole time we were there, bringing their produce off the lower slopes of the forest and plantations, and returning to collect more.

All this is done on a small scale, with everything brought back to the village for sale or trading.   Huge loads are carried by men women and children all on their heads, the strength and poise required to keep these heavy loads would be impossible without a lifetime of experience.   I would barely lift it off the ground let alone carry it on my head!

We ventured into the area and wandered along the access paths left by the miners as they moved from area to area.   Their panning machines gobbling up the soil and holding any gold found.   Whilst an initial distance  sighting was quite depressing - a river which had been destroyed by mining and left looking a mess to most people - we held the firm belief that nature would persist and when we got there it would be a different story.   

Its not all birds!

As we had hoped grasses, reeds and sedges were colonising the pools and surrounding areas.   Bee-eater and swallow were drinking from the pools and feeding overhead on insects brought to this wetlands area.   Several kingfisher were present so there must be fish in some of the more mature pools.   Winding cisticola greeted us, we saw common sandpiper and green sandpiper - thoughts of home which is pretty chilly at the moment came to mind. 

The afternoon warmth brought us back to the job in hand and more butterflies and birds were seen as we wandered along.

Soon we neared the end of the more formal track, but there was still a small path leading ahead.   This seemed to be where all the workers were going to, gaining access to the forest - maybe this was our answer as the forest looked a lot closer from here that the end of this morning’s trail. 

There were also farmers and wood cutters bringing out their produce, everyone smiled and shouted in greeting as we passed, some wanted to talk about why we were here, others wanted their photograph taken with one or other of team.   Robert spoke to each one of them asking for information about access to the older forest, but the answers were so conflicting, we knew we just had to keep trying out tracks and potential old logging roads ourselves.

White-faced Whistling-Duck flying to evening roost

Some firewood was stacked by the road ready to be brought out by motorcycle-taxis and trailers.   Many of these are completely over-burdened.   No wonder motor bikes provide the highest proportion of road accidents in Ghana!

Ghana 2019 - Day 5

Amazing Scenery

The first day of exploration, and we were off up a logging track which Peter and Issac had tried last year.   

With our trusty bus and Eric, our excellent driver we managed to get much further by vehicle than they had managed last year.   By 7:05 we were listening to Brown Illidopsis, Ahanta Francolin and  were starting to photograph the mornings first butterflies.

As we wandered along, glimpses of more mature forest appeared around us, but working out how to get access was no mean feat, for these older forest areas were some way off and there were no apparent tracks within walkable distance. 

Little Bee-eater

After asking several locals who were working on cocoa and banana or plantain plantations it was clear this was not going to be straightforward.   However we did meet two young men who were carrying cut timber out of the forest, so they must have a track with access somewhere.   Tomorrow’s plan was forming.  

We returned to the bus to the ominous sound of chain saws!

Lunch and a cold shower called.   Thank goodness for air conditioning which brought my temperature down to more normal levels quickly.   After a superb lunch from chef Robert we were off out again.

From the morning walk we could see gold mining pools below us and wanted to investigate the area.   It appears that mining is still taking place in the area on an ad hoc basis. 

Although heavily disturbed, the wildlife was there.    The mining has produced many small pools with piles of ‘panned’ clay, soil and rocks around them.   

For us the small paths and bridges (often a thin piece of wobbly wood) looked like a good place to explore more.   On this first visit we made do with a scan of the area, working out where our morning walk had taken us along the hillside above and planning tomorrow.  

Plain-backed Pipit

Watching a colony of White-throated Bee-eater flying low over the pools as they came into roost was a real highlight for me.

Ghana 2019 - Day 4

I started out at 4:45 am in an attempt to see the Nkulengu Rail.  With Robert and Issac I felt safe as we walked off the main track into unchartered forest, hardly able to see where to put my feet.    

Robert strode off purposefully in front, I tried to keep up and Issac sauntered along in flip flops - what a strange sight we must have been.

A pair of Nkulengu Rail showing off their best side!

Just as I was enjoying the early morning sounds of the forest coming to life and thinking how wonderful it would be to experience this magic more often, Robert heard a rail call and shot off - not quite so easy or magical now!   

Issac and I did our best to keep up - rather I did my best to slow Issac down, but after many twists and turns though the thick under-storey we were standing right below a rail which had roosted on a high branch overnight.   As the bird continued to call we heard a second, and soon they were together on their branch, making sure that pretty much all we could see were bright red legs and bellies, only occasionally did their wonderful white throats show.  An amazing start to a day!

After a while we left them in peace and returned for breakfast.   Peter and Roger were still not up!   I was on a high and desperate for someone to listen so I told the daughter of one of the staff.   Around two years old and no English so no common language bar signs and smiles I think she got the gist of my delight, or maybe just thought I had totally lost the plot. 

Black Dwarf Hornbill

Breakfast over and we made moth trap and butterfly trap checks before our final walk at Bobiri. 

After an early lunch taken in the veranda we packed our bags and were off to the next destination, and the main purpose of our trip.   

Peter knew the area from university days and wanted to revisit to see the potential of birding, butterflies and natural history in the area.   So off to Manso Nkwanta it was!

We arrived at Holy Prince Hotel in good time and had a couple of hours to relax until dinner whilst Robert and his team got things in place for the next few days - most importantly the food, as there was none served at the hotel and little choice in the nearby town.   Robert had it all arranged in no time and was cooking dinner for us himself, having also managed to check arrangements for tomorrow.

Ghana 2019 - Day 3

Our only full day in Bobiri and we were up at six to take full advantage of the opportunity to see more species.   

After an excellent breakfast prepared by our team and locals, we investigated the moth trap which had attracted an amazing number of flying ants, all on their marital flight after heavy rain the day before.   Some had even started to eat the fabric of the trap, having dropped their gossamer wings and looking for a means of escape.   There were a couple of hawkmoths caught.   Several other moths were photographed for later identification and all were safely released.   

Massed butterflies enjoying the salts

We walked towards the West this morning birds were in good numbers and whilst we waited for butterflies to warm up we concentrated on avian species.   An interesting introduction to the butterflies of Ghana, and much to remember!

After another excellent local lunch this time on the veranda of the library overlooking the first, we extended yesterday afternoons walk along the east track.   

Eventually we got to the open area where brown nightjar are often seen.   Time for some relaxation whilst we waited for the light to fade.   A packet of haribo tangfastics helped us while away the time.   The sky was darkening and thunder could be heard in the distance.

All of a sudden Robert heard the nightjars, with a quick play of the tape one appeared, circling over our heads, creating a little piece of magic!   Better still a second bird appeared, one perched on a nearby tree and although the light was fading a record shot was preserved!

Citrus Swallowtail Butterfly

Fearful of a downpour in pitch dark, we reluctantly left for the lodge.   A Nkulengu rail could be heard, making the most amazing sound which echoed through the forest, it felt as if both the rail and thunder were competing for dramatic effect.

As we walked indoors the heavens opened and a huge rain storm hit the area.  Wind blew and curtains billowed as fresh, cool air was very drawn through the rooms making for a pleasant shower and dinner preparation in the torchlight.

Brown Nightjar in torchlight

An early night after all our exertions and enforced by the lack of permanent electricity - we were all keen to get as much done before lights out!

Ghana 2019 - Day 2

Breakfast

Day Two 

Breakfast at 6 am, Omelette, toast, Liptons tea and excitement!

After breakfast Peter and I did a bit of birding around the hotel with Isaac.   It was good to see some African birds straight away; grey-headed sparrow, copper sunbird, laughing dove, mosque swallow, little and common swift, purple glossy starling and our first common bulbul.   Quite a good list for five minutes in a garden with hardly any plants!

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Whilst African birds are obviously going to be the main avian interest, I never cease to be thrilled to see “our birds” in their wintering grounds, and hope they make the journey north safely - in another couple of months the skies over the U.K. will (hopefully) look very different!

Callithrix (Vervet) Monkey

All loaded up and off we went to Shai Hills - a morning here would enable us to get some relaxed birding under our belts.    As we are also interested in butterflies, our list quickly filled with species from both taxa - making interpretation later an interesting prospect!

Shai Hills was declared a reserve in 1962 and now covers around 51 square kilometres.   The area is close enough to Accra for a day visit and with introductions of Ostrich and Zebra the authorities are trying to bring people and nature together.   With around 170 bird species there was a lot to do.

Olive Baboon

Time to go for lunch, where we enjoyed local dishes including grilled tilapia and banku with Shito pimento sauce.   Agama rock lizard entertained us feeding on insects in the car park.   Woodland kingfisher and African pied wagtail were spotted along the journey with large numbers of cattle egret.

Lunch

We continued towards Bobiri butterfly and wildlife reserve.   I spent half a day here in 2010, so to get the chance of two nights in the reserve was something I was looking forward to.  

The purpose of this trip is to investigate some potential birding and butterfly sites in Ghana, and Bobiri was the ideal place for us to re-acquaint ourselves with the birds and learn more about Ghanian butterflies before we move to un-chartered territory.

At Bobiri we were greeted by many butterflies feeding on fruit scraps from the kitchen - here we could test the butterfly trap!

We walked along the east track, a great introduction to the reserve and all it had to offer.  We wandered along adding some excellent species  we didn’t make it quite it to the end of the track, but we did see six grey parrots coming into roost which caused some delay and gave a great end to our first walk here.

Tonight we would put out the safari moth trap, and with only three hours of electricity we had to make the most of it - within minutes a lovely silk moth had arrived, we quickly took 

Silk moth sp.

photographs and released it.

A great first day in the reserve - remembering that there is only electricity from 18:00-21:00 hrs, it was time for bed, remembering to plan for the morning’s torchlight ablutions!

Ghana 2019 - Day 1

Firstly, thanks to Robert Nkator and Isaac Nkator from Birding Tour Adventures for their excellent planning, logistics, guiding and superb cooking on this trip, and to Eric, our brilliant driver - no slope or hollow could stop him and our trusty bus!
Secondly, thanks to the organisational skills, preliminary work, good humour, ID, photographic and food advice of Peter Alfrey!  You can read his blog here.   To Roger the third member of our UK team, expert in butterflies, insects, plants, and all things Ghanian.

Day One
Heathrow to Accra - Overnight - Malbert Inn, Tema.
Peter and I arrived at Accra at 8pm, went through diplomats immigration (!) and met up with Robert, Isaac and Eric.

Snow on the Isle of Wight!

Atlas Mountains

Malbert Inn, Tema