Blog Archive

Monday 11 March 2013

The Road to Boulmalne de Dades


Today we left Marrakech for the eastern Hamada land of Toufliht and the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass (2260m).

Chaffinch
We started off by examining the local Magpies more closely so that we could see the diagnostic features of this particular sub species - a bare blue patch of skin behind the eye.   At this same spot we also had fleeting glimpses of Sardinian warbler and Blackcap.

Lunchstop
As we continued on our long drive (at least 5 1/2 hours if you drove non-stop) we kept our eyes peeled for birds along the way.   At our next stop we had Cuckoo - hurray they're on the move! Kestrel, light and dark morph Long-legged Buzzard, Chaffinch (both races) and Chiffchaff.   A long debate raged over a falcon which eventually persuaded my expert companions that it was Barbary Falcon - I enjoyed listening to their musings on feathers and jizz.   Two Barbary Partridge showed themselves momentarily along the ridge several miles away!

Scarce Swallowtail
We carried on to a coffee stop which was just beyond the Tizi-n-Tichka pass where we had Scarce Swallowtail butterfly, another Long-legged Buzzard, Booted Eagle, and many more migrants.

Lunch time was taken at a roadside cafe.   The first treat for me was great views of Sardinian Warbler, a bird which I had failed to be in the presence of on several other trips, and having my appetite whetted first thing this morning, being able to watch this delightful bird at close quarters was brilliant.    Crag Martin swooped around, Subalpine Warbler (fast becoming a favourite as it is such a striking bird, and easy to identify - watch this space on that sweeping statement) and our own Barn Swallow were also noted, along with Painted Lady butterfly.

Lunch was chicken kebab with salad as we sat on a verandah enjoying a view of the hillside, and any passing species.

In the afternoon we stopped for tea (hard-core this birding lark) then moved on for the last part of the journey.   As we neared our next hotel we took a trek through the rough Hamada habitat, where we found Spectacled Warbler, Desert Wheatear, Trumpeter Finch, 'Desert' Southern Grey Shrike - a remarkably pale bird compared with that we should see later in in the Souss Valley.

Hamada Landscape
As the sun set over the stony desert landscape it was an evocative scene with the ever-changing colours of the rocky land around us.   As we wadi-bashed in the dimming light the space and freedom was invigorating, and the thought of a few days exploring this great area was met with eager anticipation.