Blog Archive

Wednesday 13 March 2013

Off to the Desert . . . .

Today was set to be a long day in the vehicles as we moved further east from the stony-desert Hamada to the sandy desert proper.   We set off (as usual) at 6.30 am, and headed for the hills.   We wanted to find Maghreb Wheatear - a close relation of Mourning Wheatear.    We stopped at a village nearby and a local quarry worker said he could take us to the site, so we set off to another part of the quarry.
Western Mourning/Maghreb Wheatear

When we got there he was actually pointing out a Black Wheatear, but the good news was that this diversion did eventually triumph.   As we moved off there was a call from the second vehicle that the bird had been sighted by sharp-eyed Darryl.   So we turned round and rejoined the rest of the group.  As we wandered back to the area we had just been in a pair of Maghreb Wheatear were feeding and perching around the large boulders in the side of the quarry.   We had great views and eventually had to tear ourselves away.   A third bird was spotted as we moved off.  

We travelled through hillside mining towns and several gorges including The Secret Gorge and the Todra Gorge.

We hoped to catch up with Tristram's Warbler, in this area, a stunning bird in the Sylvia genus.   As our vehicles stopped in the gorge a small bird flew away from us and up the scree slope.   Little did I realise at the time that that would be the best view I would have!

Despite seven pairs of diligent eyes scanning the area, we only had very scanty views and Andrew took to pointing out some excellent botanical species which kept our spirits up.
Todra Gorge

The inevitable tea stop was due (all this of course to allow the drivers to arrange the catering for the next few days), and whilst we enjoyed a shady cafe garden we had a pair of Bonelli's Eagle displaying above us.   Cetti's Warbler was singing and coming into a nearby tree - giving great views.   A pair of Blue Rock Thrush appeared to be hunting for a nest site on the steep cliffs above us.   African Blue Tit and House Bunting were feeding nearby.   The tea was great too!

With around 6 hours driving to do we could delay no longer, and we set off for the long haul over to the desert.   As we travelled along, through varying landscapes where the boulders changed to large stones, pebbles and then sand the further east we travelled.

Lunch today was in a very hot but breezy stop at a Nomad camp in the desert.   The area has wells for drawing water from aquifers below the desert, and a great set up with a "Relaxation Tent" which can be used by passing travellers.

Although it was hot, we were keen to have a leg-stretch in the desert, so set off for a river bed some few hundred yards away.   The heat from the sun was searing, although an increasingly breezy wind was helping to stop us completely overheating.   The river bed was completely dry, but a couple of camels were finding some shoots to munch, on nearby trees.   They look so great in their natural environment - so haughty and smug.   Presumably they know that they belong there and we do not!
House Bunting

Lunch was taken in the tent, with a great Berber Tagine - vegetables, meat and eggs baked into a light omelette-style lunch, with lots of lovely fresh bread and salad.

Back on the road, and the wind was getting stronger.   As we continued it was obvious that we were heading into a sandstorm - amazing to watch and be part of, but we were concerned about our birding opportunities being threatened.

A stop by the River Ziz - where Jaffa took us through a building site brought Little Grebe and Grey Heron to the list, and gave the local builders some entertainment.   Here we also spotted a Moroccan Wagtail on the far side of the river.

After some time we went off the main track and headed off into the dust!   We had been told that there was a lake nearby which should add some waterbirds to our trip list.   Lee, Andrew and I were totally disbelieving and ribbed Jaffa relentlessly as we bounced along on the sandy tracks with mile after mile of sand stretched out around us when the storm abated enough for us to see.

We halted by a rubbish tips - we birdwatchers go to all the best places - to watch Brown-necked Ravens.   I noticed a small pale bird, possibly a warbler, land at the base of a nearby shrub.   It promptly disappeared!
Lunch in the "Relaxation Tent"

More driving through the sandstorm finally brought us to the Dayet Sjri Salt Lake.   A host of water birds were seen through the exfoliating sand blast, including:
Ruddy Shelduck, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Grey Heron, Greater Flamingo, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Kentish Plover, Common Greenshank, Gull-billed Tern.