Bob's Birthday - Floreana Island

Yellow-Crowned Night-Heron

The last time we were told to expect a rough passage it was calm - not so this time!   I managed to find a way to wedge my leg between the wall of the cabin and the bed so that I did not fall out - but it was a close thing.

We woke to see Floreana and Punta Cormorant before us, a far more volcanic looking island with less vegetation, and the expected "volcano" shaped hills.   A wet landing took us past cliffs, where I spotted a yellow-crowned night-heron, to a beach lined with saltbush and Darwin's Daisy, behind which was a large lagoon where four flamingo were present.   Although distant, they were obviously pink!   There were plastic containers with poisioned water to try to eradicate the paper wasp, a relatively recent introduction which as proved to be a pest.   Unfortunately, we noticed that ground finches were drinking from these and would likely die from this.

Sanderling

Turnstone, semi-palmated plover, least sandpiper and western sandpiper were feeding on the small insects along the edge of the lagoon.   Floreana lava lizards, and sally lightfoot crabs scuttled away from our feet as we walked up to a viewpoint which gave great views over the lagoon.   We walked to White Sand Bay and saw a second yellow-crowned night-heron, this time a juvenile.

Sanderling ran along the tideline, joined by ruddy turnstone, and yellow warbler.   Five smooth-billed ani perched in a nearby bush, but flew as we approached. 

We moved back to Green Sand Beach and after half-an-hour's stroll along the beach where we saw many sea urchins and three turtle nests, we went back on board for lunch.

Post Office Bay

After we had eaten lunch, the captain moved the boat to a mooring just off Post Office Bay, where we had another wet landing.   The history of this site dates back to around 1793 when British navigators placed a wooden barrel for messages and mail for homebound voyagers.   A decade later it was used for espionage during the Anglo-American naval war, and the tradition has continued down the years, until now it is a way of sending postcards home.   Visiting yachts have left calling cards, pieces of driftwood and messages for future visitors which all add to the charm.   We therefore had no option but to write cards to be left in the barrel.   When we opened the barrel there were three large plastic bags with cards in them.  We went through the cards and found several for the UK, so we brought them back with us to post when we got home.   I had one for a couple in Cheshire.

After we had done our Royal Mail bit, we moved on up a track behind the post office and sat round Juan as he told us the tale of a german vegetarian dentist, his lover, one set of metal teeth that they shared, some visitors and the mysterious disappearance of 27 people.   No-one loitered when we told it was time to leave!

Watch the Swell!

We sailed on to moor up just outside Puerto Velasco Ibarra.   Here we had a dry landing onto the pier steps - should have been a doddle but there was a bit of a swell which made it a little challenging.   We were met by a local gentleman and were taken by an open lorry with seats to the highland area to look for medium tree finch - a near-threatened species only to be found in this habitat.   As we ascended the weather closed in and fine mist descended.  Not to be put off to went off in search and found a delightfully co-operative individual at the first tree that we tried.   Unfortunately, although it was easy enough to see, it was dark and my  photos by no means do it justice.   After we had walked the trail loop, passing numerous tortoises on the way, it was time to drive back down the uneven track in the open lorry again.  

The Welcoming Committee

Back at the harbour the swell had increased and it was a real act of faith to leap into the arms of the waiting boatman.   We donned our life jackets before the boat moved off, and as we transferred the rest of the jackets into the other boat they fell into the sea, luckly all in the bag, and only the top few got wet, but it just proved how dangerous the swell was.   The transfer from panga to yacht was equally thrilling.

At dinner we had a rousing chorus of "Happy Birthday" for Bob and an excellent cake with candles.

Once again we were warned that the sea passage could be rough.