Sri Lanka Day 12 - Pannagamuwa Wetlands and Yala

After a hectic day we had an easier start with a trip to the Pannagamuwa wetlands after a more leisurely breakfast at the hotel.

The wetlands were great, with a chance to have a wander along, pottering about to see what we could find.   With birds on the water being easier to spot, we were soon looking at dragonflies and damselflies which vied with butterflies for our attention. 

The Wetlands

Cotton pygmy-goose was a new addition to my personal list and one I was keen to see.  What a lovely bird to see.   There were huge numbers of Indian Pond Heron and many Egret in this area.

Purple Swamphen

Our local guide heard a Jungle Owlet call in a nearby garden and after mimicking the sound, we had a reply.   After checking with the owner, we were all in the front garden checking the palm trees which were ideal habitat.   Two Owlets were seen, they chased around giving us good (if rather speedy) views, until one settled on a branch and gave us his best stare.

Another stunning view was White-naped Woodpecker - also on most people's wish list.   We spent ages in this garden.   There were some delightful slim yellow and green damselflies - Yellow Wagtail.   Along with several other insects which proved rather hard to photograph and impossible to identify.

The names of some of the Odonata are brilliant with Sombre Lieutenant, Pied Parasol, Asian Pintail, Oriental Scarlet and Orange-winged Groundling and many, many others.

Plain Tiger Butterfly (with Indian Common Crow behind)

As we wandered along we came across some beautiful rice paddy fields, so picturesque and typical of this part of the world.

Soon it was time for us to go back for our Rice and Curry lunch, but not before we had a stop along the road to see a tree which was absolutely covered in roosting Indian Flying Fox.   

Indian Flying Fox Roost (just a few of those present)

In the afternoon we were back to Yala in the jeep.   Unfortunately we arrived at the same time as a coach full of tourists so it took some time to both gain entry, and also to get past them all.   Once the queue had dispersed we found some quieter routes and once again enjoyed the natural delights of the park. 

After a last jeep drive we were back once more to the hotel and then yet another delicious curry for dinner.

An early night was in order after another full day, and we were moving off the next morning.

Sri Lanka Day 11 - A (very) full day in Yala

Up early and with the prospect of a whole day in Yala to whet our appetites.   As public access is restricted to Section 1, with several other sections abutting, we needed the extra time to get to the extremities of the public areas.

Early morning at Yala

So, with our packed breakfast and lunches safely stowed, we set off.   Bouncing along in a bumpy jeep helped to wake us up and we were soon back in the Park with birds and animals around us.

Black-headed Ibis and Painted Stork were feeding in nearby pools and the Spotted Deer herds were starting to move towards the cover of the trees.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark fed nearby, the males looking stunning.   Chestnut-headed Bee-eater sat close to the jeep at one stage, until a rather loud group of locals came along!



However, it was great to see so many Sri Lankans enjoying their own wildlife - not something you come across often on these trips.

Golden Jackal was seen again, with one individual seeming to come towards us in curiosity rather than avoiding us.

Golden Jackal

Breakfast was taken by the memorial to the Tsunami of 2004, in the company of large groups of locals who had all brought their breakfasts of rice and curry - the three members of curry corner looked on, wishing we could swap our sandwiches.   Several of us took the opportunity to wander on the beach, enjoying the scene and getting photographs of several species of butterflies feeding on the plants at the edge of the sand.

Tsunami Memorial

More driving around the Park was to give us close views of Land Monitor, Toque Macaque, Ruddy Mongoose and many other birds and insects, with butterflies gathering in large numbers around wet pools where they could drink the salts and minerals.

White-rumped and Scaly-breasted Munia fed on seeding plants.

Lunch was taken in a shady spot often used for camping by the side of a river.   Unfortunately there were a lot of Toque Macaques - we were warned to keep a close eye on our food as the monkeys are not scared of humans and know where the best food options are.   One group managed to get hold of a lunch bag, with a cocky male sitting in a tree peeling a hard-boiled egg and then stuffing it into his mouth whole.  

The excitement of the afternoon was a message that a Leopard kill had been made some way off, so we drove back to the area to see if there was any evidence of the cat.   Sadly, a young water buffalo had been killed and its mother was standing by the body, trying to stop two Golden Jackals from tearing the body apart.  We watched from a distance as the mother was obviously distressed and would not leave.   The Jackals were chased off several times, but kept coming back.   Then more Water Buffalo came over to add support to the grieving mother - finally a large male appeared, this seemed to keep the Jackals at bay.

Jordan's Nightjar

The consensus of opinion was that the Leopard would not return until all the Buffalo (especially the male) had gone, so given that our time was precious, we decided to move off.

The rest of the afternoon was spent driving along the tracks seeing what was about until it was time to go back to the hotel for a welcome shower and dinner.

The option of a night drive was taken up by three of the five, and although tired, the chance of seeing some more creatures proved too much of a draw for me.

Indian Gerbil

We were not disappointed with Jerdon's Nightjar, Jungle Cat, Indian Gerbil to name but three.

Sri Lanka Day 10 - More photos!

Sri Lanka Scops-owl

Yala

Malabar Pied Hornbill

Why is it called Elephant Rock?

Sri Lanka Day 10 - Uda Walawe to Yala NP

A morning jeep safari in Uda Walawe gave us another chance to see some by now familiar species well, not before we got stuck in a huge mud pool though.

Blyth's Pipit

Our driver managed to get us close enough to some firm ground so that we could step off the jeep and await another vehicle to rescue us.   As we continued, two Golden Jackals came into view ahead of us, they disappeared around the corner and although we slowly stalked them in the vehicle, they had disappeared.     

At a viewpoint we had Jungle Crow begging for food and a very young baby rat-like animal was found crawling across the ground.   Our jeep driver found a small box and collected it to move it into the relative safety of cover where hopefully its parent would find it before the heat of the day dehydrated it or the crow took it.

Plum-headed Parakeet

A much-wished for Plum-headed Parakeet bid us farewell from Uda Walawe as we left for Yala National Park.    A quick detour to our Jeep-driver's house to see Sri Lanka Scops-owl which roosts in the eaves of his home.   Lucky man - to have the owl, and the opportunity to increase his tips!

The signs as we neared our next base announced the Park as a "Leopard Paradise", but it is also home to many other animals including Sloth Bear, Spotted Deer, Black-naped Hare, the beautifully dramatic Malabar Pied Hornbill, and some of the most stunning landscapes we encountered on our trip.

We arrived in Yala for our drive around 3 pm and Hoopoe, Barred Buttonquail and many other birds were sand bathing along the dusty tracks.   We had a lovely time simply watching them do what they do naturally.

There then followed the most amazing experience - only made possible by the sharp eyes of a certain Mr Alfrey.   As we rounded a corner, there were several pipits and other small birds on the ground.   The jeep stopped and immediately Peter called "Ortolan Bunting".   The rest of us got onto the bird which was almost close enough for us to have completely overlooked.   The more skilled birders and photographers amongst us snapped away, describing the key diagnostics whilst the rest of us tried to keep up.   Much discussion around range and distribution, the colour of the coverts etc., etc., needless to say, after much discussion and referring to Collins, it was decided we probably had a Grey-necked Bunting - which was later confirmed.

Hoopoe Dust-bathing

By this time the rest of us were ready to move on, which we duly did.   In case you are thinking that the Grey-necked Bunting was not quite "the most amazing experience" you would be right.   

For the delay which we had for this bird caused us to lose all the other jeeps around us.  As we drove along in glorious isolation, an animal appeared from a bend in the track and we had a Sloth Bear walking towards us!   As we sat in utter disbelief watching it move towards us, we could barely believe it [excuse the pun].   It seemed totally unaware of our presence, or if it was, it certainly didn't care.   The white claws were easily visible as it took each step towards us.   When the Bear got to a more open area where it wanted to cross, it simply broke into a trot and ran across a grassy area to

Sloth Bear

our right and disappeared.   

What a fantastic encounter.

A video I took, edited by Chris Townsend of Wise Birding Holidays is available here.

Sri Lanka Day 9 - Sinharaja to Uda Walawe

Before we left Sinharaja we were to visit a local home where Sri Lanka Spurfowl are known to come into the garden in the early morning.   This was to be one of those birding highlights that creeps up on you and takes you completely by surprise.   We set off in the dark and once again the bumpy jeep ride stirred up the body.   We arrived at the allotted home before the sun rose and waited quietly for the owner to let us in.

Sri Lanka Spurfowl

We were taken to the back of the house where a small yard sloped down to forest.  It took some time for our eyes to adjust to the lack of light, and we were looking through ornamental bars which did not help.   As we waited the lady of the house started to make breakfast for the family - torture for us who had forgone breakfast to get here so early.   They are missing a commercial trick there.

We were slightly worried as the day before a Sri Lanka Junglefowl had been fighting with the male Spurfowl, and although it proved to be great for the spectators present, we were concerned that it might stop the Spurfowl from coming in today.

Rakwama Mountain Valley

On queue, we heard Spurfowl call, then the Junglefowl shot off to defend his territory, leaving his four ladies to continue scratching the ground and feeding.   After a couple of forays, the owner of the house decided to put some food out for the Junglefowl so that once they had had their fill hopefully the Spurfowl would have the chance to come in un-molested.

Brilliant deduction from our host - it worked a treat and after waiting with bated breath for what seemed like an absolute age, the delightfully small, but beautiful male Spurfowl came into view, with its equally lovely female following behind.   We watched for ages and were stunned into silence only broken by the clicking of camera shutters. 

Asian Elephant

Fantastic views, with the added drama of male junglefowl defending the feeding territory and delaying the arrival!   

So delighted was I, I can barely remember the rest of the morning, save to say we travelled on after breakfast through the Rakwama Mountains, which was a stunningly beautiful landscape.   Stopped at a viewpoint we were delighted with several birds of prey including: Black Eagle, Booted Eagle, and Rufous-bellied Eagle.  Brahminy Kite also made another appearance, but in good light and flying close we had probably the best views I have ever had.

Black-winged Kite

In the afternoon, we move off to Uda Walawe, and a brilliant jeep safari.

The highlight (apart from lots of new bird species to enjoy) has to be JUNGLE CAT.  Spotted on a sandy beach at the back of a large pool - and given away by the mobbing of Red-wattled Lapwing.

Many water birds, waders, larks and pipits made it onto our trip list and using the cover the jeep provided we managed to get very close to several species including Jerdon's Bushchat.   White-browed Fantail showed off on a low branch just in front of us, and Ruddy Mongoose were seen several times.   A flock of Indian Silverbill were another new trip bird. 

Indian Peafowl

And at last there was . . . . . . . NO RAIN!!

Sri Lanka Day 8 - Sinharaja & Pitakele Road

Another day, another bumpy jeep trip.   Back to the forest which was looking spectacular in the early morning mist. 

Misty morning

Purple-faced Leaf Monkey (with modesty intact)

At one point a group of Purple-faced Leaf Monkey (Bear Monkey Highland Race) were found and we had great views - we were just debating the noticeable similarities with various members of the group when one of them decided to treat us to a full-frontal uninhibited view.  There the similarities luckily dissolved!

We stopped at the education centre, dodging the rain showers, and whilst some watched for leeches, a couple of us tried to track down a calling Indian Pitta - no to avail I might add - and the rest hung around the garden to see what could be found.   We had some great views of birds previously only glimpsed, and had a stunning encounter with Common Green Lizard as it ran across the path in front of us with a cicada in its mouth.   It stayed in the undergrowth nearby for ages as we all watched.

Common Green Lizard with Cicada

On the way back to the lodge Peter had a stick insect on his hand, which we tried to photograph - not easy when you are being jostled about in the back of a truck with nothing to hang on to, so not the best idea. 

see the rather dodgy result below!

Soon it was time to go back to the lodge for lunch, and a (very short) rest.

Our afternoon walk from the lodge took us to the nearby Pitakele Road.   Along the way many of the smallholdings were putting out their tea harvest to be collected.   Some homes had small orchards with fruit trees and one farmer also harvested Beetlenut.

An adult Changeable Hawk-eagle was perched in a tree above an old nest, and as we moved up to a higher area a juvenile was seen.   It had a short contretemps with a mongoose and then perched on top of a palm tree.   This gave us all an excellent opportunity to study it and take photographs

Juvenile Changeable Hawk-eagle

In a small cinnamon plantation there were several beetles and a beautiful red, blue and black moth. 

Unidentified Moth

Sri Lanka Day 7 - Sinharaja National Park - the day Peter gave blood

Sinharaja Forest Reserve is a World Heritage Site, and on arriving at the visitor centre the relief map of the area certainly showed us why.   It is a huge area, mainly kept as sanctuary  but with some key trails into the forest which are accessed by jeeps on very bumpy trails.

Once we were dropped off at the trail head, we were left to explore the area and look for more birds and mammals to add to our ever -growing list.   With a packed lunch we looked forward to a full day here.

Serendib Scops-Owl

The only downside to the day was the presence of Leeches - only small ones and by no means as many as I encountered in Vietnam, but it was still hard to ignore the fact that there could be a blood-sucking devil on you!

However we had to concentrate as there was a whole new set of highland birds for us to find, along with more butterflies and several snakes.

Sri Lanka Frogmouth

One of our main interests here was Serendib Scops-Owl, and there was great news when we arrived, as one of the local guides had found an Owl the previous afternoon.   As we trekked through muddy overgrown paths, over bamboo bridges and through dense undergrowth, the anticipation was building.   Amazingly, this beautiful Owl was roosting not far from where we stood, low to the ground and totally at ease with our presence.  We all had great views, got some good photographs (although there were branches across it [aren't there always?!], and spent ages just watching and enjoying the moment.

Brown-breasted Flycatcher

As if this wasn't enough excitement for a morning, our next stop was again through muddy undergrowth to see a pair of Sri Lanka Frogmouth.   One was behind the other and not immediately visible, but again, they appeared completely at ease as we watched from a reasonable distance.

After these two highlights it was back to Leech-watch and hunting through the canopies for feeding flocks.

Pitcher Plant

Indian Peafowl - better known as Peacock in the UK - is in this area, and was to be an almost constant on our list after today.   They seem on the face of it a rather incongruous bird to have in the middle of a wild place.   However, as we saw them in various habitats I gradually realised that they were absolutely in their element and provided a beautiful, elegant addition to the countryside.  Roosting high up in the trees, with their tails hanging down they were brilliantly camouflaged - their tails appearing to be part of the tree.

We were back with Pigeons and Doves here, with Grey-capped Emerald-dove, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon and Green Imperial-Pigeon.  A male Malabar Trogon gave us a good show, wagging its tail as it called. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike was a catch-up for me here, 

Watching the Frogmouth

Black-naped Monarch and Asian Paradise-flycatcher gave regular stunning views - the latter in both white and rufous forms.   Sri Lanka Crested Drongo eventually showed well, but not before we had worked for it.   Sri Lanka Blue Magpie was the final star of the avian show for us today, with four individuals preening in low branches.

The flame of the Sri Lanka junglefowl was on show throughout the day.  

After our picnic lunch, we had a second walk, not as productive as the first, but we did see three snakes, several new butterflies and a few more Leeches.

Crested Treeswift appeared in the lodge garden.

However, the main "highlight" of the day was the way that Peter dealt with his blood letting experience, taking one for the team and even keeping his cool when his favourite shirt was wrecked. 

Peter taking one for the team!

Sri Lanka Day 6 - Victoria Park and transfer to Sinharaja NP

Another rainy trip to Victoria Park before breakfast.   Despite our best efforts we failed to find much more for the list although we did have some lovely views of Forest and Grey Wagtail, Pied Thrush and Oriental Magpie Robin.

Western Spotted Dove

After a quiet stop at Galway forest corner (a meeting of two lanes near the hotel which had been brilliant yesterday) we went off for breakfast then our transfer to Sinharaja.  

We stopped at the Plantation Hotel by the river at Kitulgala for lunch, then onwards to the famous Blue Magpie Lodge.

Along the road

Sri Lanka Day 5 - Horton Plains

Today was spent in the Montane Cloud Forest area of the Horton Plains.   We arrived early and were surprised that there was a queue forming behind us within moments on our arrival.

Sri Lanka Junglefowl

Given that it was grey and raining, and in fact continued to rain all day, there were a lot of people, mainly tourists, ready to "experience the real Sri Lanka".

Birding under and umbrella is never easy, but at least it wasn't windy and there were facilities - quite a luxury on these holidays.

Sri Lanka Woodpigeon got onto our trip list, as did Pied Bushchat and Dull Verditer Flycatcher.

Hill Swallow showing dingy underparts

One star was Zitting Cisticola which showed off nearby along with Great Tit which is a greyer version of our own, Grey Wagtail, and Black-headed Munia.

My moment of the day was to find a bird of prey flying low over the fields ahead of us which turned out to be a Pallid Harrier.

Yellow-eared Bulbul

Back to the hotel for yet another great Sri Lankan dinner.

Sri Lanka Day 4 - The Road to Nuwara Eliya

After enjoying some early morning birding in the garden, again, around the magic tree - where we added Jerdon's Leafbird to our trip list; and an excellent breakfast, we were off to Nuwara Eliya.    

A couple of roadside stops along the way gave us the opportunity to stretch our legs, and also have Ceylon tea and chocolate cake at the St Clair Tea Room.   Crested-serpent Eagle, Great Tit, Common Kestrel and House Sparrow were added along the way.

Sri Lanka Hanging-parrot

Sadly several Indian Flying Fox were seen tangled up in electric cables as we travelled along. 

By lunchtime we were nearing our next hotel and had a profitable half an hour or so at a track crossway, here we had over 100 Sri Lanka White-eye, feeding on what appeared to be small mimosa flowers.   Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Greenish Warbler and Sri Lanka Scimitar-babbler were all additions to our sightings. 

In the afternoon, as the heavens opened again, we stopped near a local wetland on the way to Victoria Park.   Several Pintail Snipe were seen feeding in the flooded pasture.

Sri Lanka Gian Squirrel

At the park we managed to add Forest Wagtail, had great views of a male Indian Blue Robin, but the star of the show was Indian Pitta, a species we were to hear on many occasions over the rest of the trip, but which would elude our eyes!

Indian Pitta

Brown Wood-owl was heard as we neared the hotel for dinner.

Mammals added: 

Dusky Striped Squirrel, and 'Highland grizzled' form of Sri Lanka Giant Squirrel. 

Sri Lanka Day 3 - Kitulgala

A pre-breakfast walk in the garden added oriental white-eye, Sri Lanka Hanging-parrot, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Common Iora, Southern (Lesser) Hill Myna - several showed well on a tree some way distant but were scope-able.   We quickly realised that there was a magic tree in the back garden of the hotel which the birds were loving and we centred our attention there.

In the front garden of the hotel a Common Hawk Cuckoo gave some interest with its accipiter-like flight, photographs gave final confirmation.   Peter found a red-rumped swallow (soon to be Sri Lanka swallow?).   

Kitulgala

At breakfast and from the restaurant we had Chestnut-headed Bee-eater in the 'scope. 

A bird of prey was found by Upali, which as finally found to be Crested Goshawk. 

After breakfast we walked the suspension bridge in search of Sri Lanka Junglefowl and were not disappointed with at least three males and a female.   At one point we had three Oriental Honey Buzzards visible.  Brown-headed Barbet moved from the heard to seen list, several male Scarlet Minivets showed off to their females, whilst Brown-breasted Flycatcher tried hard not to show its diagnostic pale legs!

Yellow-billed Babbler

Best photographic opportunity was given by Tickle's Blue Flycatcher.

A good day for nests with Grey-capped Emerald Dove, Spot-winged Thrush and White-rumped Munia nests all found. 

Mammals

Wet lowland form of Sri Lanka Giant Squirrel 

Palm Squirrel

Ranweli to Kitulgala

Day two dawned and we were off on a pre-breakfast cruise on the Gin River (also known locally as Oya Gin or Little Gin River).   Two of us were lucky enough to spot a Slaty-legged Crake as it flew in at the side of the path to the jetty, never to be spotted again, sadly!

The cruise gave us another opportunity to see herons and egrets; Yellow Bittern, Little Egret, Striated (green) Heron and Purple Heron being particular highlights.    A white morph Western Reef Heron was finally identified by photograph - not mine I might add.  

Striated Heron

There were also excellent opportunities to compare Little and Indian cormorant as we drifted along.   Indian Thick-knee shyly moved behind a large bush, but was finally seen by everyone. 

Common Kingfisher gave a great show as it dipped into the river then sat preening on a low branch.   Black-hooded Oriole and Large-billed (Jungle) Crow were also seen in the trees.

Several Common Sandpiper and a Common Redshank were spotted on the return journey.    Lesser Sri Lanka Flameback (endemic) showed off well whilst Purple-rumped sunbird and a pair of Lotens Sunbird were more of a challenge to see.   Hardest though was Blyth's Reed-warbler which skulked in the undergrowth giving the most tantalising of views.

Water Monitor

Raptors seen included Black Eagle, Shikra and Brahminy Kite.   Four Lesser Whistling Ducks flew and Little (House) Swift, were joined by Asian Palm Swift overhead.   Back to the hotel for breakfast - the Sri Lankan curries were fantastic - and for some of us a walk on the beach again.   We wanted to get another look at the waders and see if there were any terns present, as the couple who had stayed at the hotel before we arrived had seen large groups of terns the previous days.

After much debate and many photographs we were still unsure about Little/Saunders Tern, so we settled for Little.   We also saw Common, Greater Crested and Lesser Crested terns.   

White-bellied Sea-eagle soared above us and Plain Prinia was also seen. 

On our journey to the next hotel at Kitulgala we added Ashy Wood-swallow.

Kitulgala

After a beautiful curry lunch, and some early afternoon rain, we set off for a walk where we saw Western Spotted Dove, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon (endemic), Green Imperial Pigeon, Greater Coucal showed well as did Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, we heard Brown-headed Barbet and Yellow-fronted Barbet (endemic) and Indian pitta.

Sri Lanka Hanging-parrot (endemic), Emerald-collard (Lanyards) Parakeet (endemic), Alexandrine Parakeet, Red-vented Bulbul, Yellow-browned Bulbul, Square-tailed Black Bulbul, Oriental Magpie Robin, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Green Leaf-warbler, Orange-billed Babbler (endemic), Yellow-billed Babbler - all came thick and fast. 

Indian swiftlets (of the birds nest soup fame) fed overhead.   

However, Chestnut-backed owlet stole the show late in the afternoon as the light started to fade.

Dinner was another amazing feast of spicy curried delights - we were already getting used to three curries a day!

The hotel we were staying at was set on the bank of the River Kelani Ganga where David Lean set his film Bridge Over the River Kwai.

Non-avian sightings included: 

Torque macaque, Purple-faced Leaf Monkey, Water Monitor, Palm Squirrel 

Back in Kent

A quick jaunt to Chatham Dockyard today to catch up with a Great Northern Diver which has been present for a few weeks.

Great Northern Diver

Then it was off to Riverside Country Park.

A lovely sunny morning enabled some good views of gulls and waders but with the tide against us, distant views meant that we needed the 'scope.

Black-headed Gull

As the tide rose, and the birds got closer, the sky got greyer, so not the best opportunities for photographs, but with a few flowers in bloom - an odd "winter" this year - there were some good sightings, including two Peregrine Falcons, and some fantastic views of Wigeon and Teal.

Beautiful male Wigeon

Black-tailed Godwit

A good end to my 2015 birding.

[next blog back to Sri Lanka . . . . ]