Erg Chebbi - The Land Behind the Dunes

Today we were off into the desert proper with a drive through the sand dunes.   First however we were going back to the Kemkemia Bivouac to look for Desert Warbler and Sparrow.   The warbler showed within minutes of our arrival, and proved to be just as skittish as the previous day, hiding within the low-growing scrubby plants then popping up to show itself for a couple of seconds then disappearing again as quickly as it appeared.   After about 20 minutes we gave up and walked back to camp to look for the sparrows.   These were harder to find than the previous day but were still there, the male guarding a potential nest site in one of the outbuildings, the female lurking in an area of more open gravel and sand pecking around for tasty morsels.

Patterns in the sand

Next stop was for Fulvous Babbler, a species which had been totally unresponsive yesterday.  Another Nomad, another species, we were getting withdrawal symptoms having not met a Nomad for several hours. Our site this morning was much better however with our driver pointing out two birds sitting up high on a date palm tree just a few feet from the cars.   As Jaffa played the tape they showed well and then continued about their business in the vicinity, enjoying themselves feeding amongst the crops and flying around in the trees in noisy sociable groups - typical babblers!   Long-billed Lark also made an appearance here.

Once we had sated ourselves we were off looking for Houbara Bustard.   The group had mixed feelings as the birds here are introduced by Arab sheiks keen to hunt them, to are not really countable as a wild sighting, but it would be good to see them in their natural habitat whatever.

Desert Warbler

All this driving was frustrating Andrew the Botanist, who was appeased by a couple of leg-stretching breaks where we wandered around taking landscape shots - within seconds Andrew had disappeared, lying prone with his nose pressed against a flower, camera in hand and another species recorded for his pleasure.   We had soon learned that if you want to find him, look in the vegetation!

Hoopoe Lark were calling their distinctive whistle and we saw a few displaying.   Desert Lark and Bar-tailed Lark were also flying around us in large numbers.   We found Spotted Sandgrouse as our first new bird - with Andrew calling them - a rather obliging group which allowed us to get very close in the car.    Next were Crowned Sandgrouse, this time called by Lee.   They were equally obliging, and if you haven't tried to find these birds before you will not appreciate how ridiculous it was, we could almost have reached out and touched them.   Our skilful drivers were keen to ensure we had the best possible experience, without any stress or interference to the birds.

The Bustard continued to elude us, and we took the opportunity to stroll around looking at lizards, crickets and flowers, as well as making full use of the exercise out of the car.  

Our shady lunch stop

Soon it was time for lunch with shade a priority at the oasis of Begaa.  As on previous days we went bird watching whilst our drivers prepared lunch.   We wandered through some tamarisk where there were lots of Subalpine Warblers coming through.   A Bonelli's Warbler and several Common Redstart completed our migration list for this site - we arrived at the cars which had been parked under a nearby tree just as lunch was ready.

Today it was a lamb meatball and egg tagine, prepared Berber-style.   Served with the usual mixed salad and fresh bread, it was delicious.   Bananas and oranges were our dessert.

Unfortunately only two of us took advantage of the freshly brewed tea as Andrew once again found us a bird - a Martin which we initially thought was Crag Martin but on closer inspection appeared to be more like Rock Martin with a paler plumage, a more steely blue rather than the warm darkness usually encountered.   Many photographs were taken of these birds and it will be interesting to see what the verdict from the "experts" is.

Crowned Sandgrouse (male)

We returned to the hotel for a two-hour break before moving off out again for a late afternoon visit to the lake were we stopped a couple of days ago.   Here we had the usual entourage of nomads selling goodies, this time Pete was joined by Lee who took a fancy to a couple of pieces of fossil filled rock.   Much banter ensued, ending with a rather silly moment which will mean nothing in the telling, suffice it to say that Lee made an inappropriate comment which ex-teacher Andrew told him would have got him detention at  school!  We started to laugh and ended up having "a bit of a moment"!   The hysteria continued later in the evening when we did a night drive into the desert (more of which later)

We did managed to do some birdwatching even with all that laughter, and I added Little Stint, Common Redshank for my trip list.

Lizard

We were off on a night drive into the desert.
All started well, with our moving from the lake to a local roadside cafe.   Yes, I know it seems as if we did a lot of stopping and drinking on this trip, but we were in the field for around 12 hours every day, and there were two coffee-addicts in my vehicle.   Anyway, after we had stocked up on biscuits and sweets we were off into the fading light. . . .  For the drive of a lifetime!

How our drivers had any clue where we were absolutely flummoxed us - the moon stayed on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and that is a much as I can say!   We continued driving for some considerable time, the majority of it off-road, down tracks of previous visitors' tyres in the sand.   Occasionally we had the delight of a drop down a rather steep gradient - not ideal for those with back problems, but we coped.   A hare appeared in our headlights and the driver was off in pursuit - then commenced the most ridiculous couple of minutes of the whole trip where the car and hare were in harmony almost dancing through the desert - the hare was far more agile and shot off into the scrub while we dissolved into gales of laughter, tears teeming down our faces and totally unable to speak for some considerable time.   Our driver added to the hysteria by commenting about a possible hare tagine picnic the next day!!

The Land Behind the Dunes

On a serious note, we did see a small shrew-like mammal and two Egyptian Nightjars, which was brilliant.

easy -!).

Desert Sparrow Day!

We were looking for Desert Sparrow this morning and concentrated around the local auberges where there are nesting holes and camels - we are led to believe that they like camel dung!   I did find a Hoopoe, and there were some White-crowned Black Wheatear, Subalpine Warbler, and many House Sparrows, but none of the Desert variety.

Morning light in the desert

We went off to another site via the infamous Cafe Yasmina.  This is a well known birding site, where ringing is sometimes carried out.   During the wetter season there's a small lake nearby (totally dry now unfortunately) and a great area of tamarisk and scrubby habitat which was great for a bit of migration investigation.   Here were warblers aplenty, with Sardinian, Westerm Bonnelli's, Cetti's, Chiffchaff, Woodchat Shrike and  Common Redstart.   One of the House Sparrows was completely black - most intriguing.   We set off in different directions taking tracks through the scrub and just enjoying some 'real birding'.   The thrill was seeing our migrating birds on their long way north and realising just how amazing their perilous journey is.  

Brilliant creatures!

Our driver had spoken to a nearby Nomad who was said to have the sparrows near his bivouac, so we took a short drive to his camp.   As we approached, a small light warbler appeared - a Desert Warbler!   At this point I realised that the bird I had glimpsed at the rubbish tip yesterday was probably this species, acting in exactly the same way, keeping to the base of the small shrubs, and only showing itself when absolutely necessary.   The pale colouring was exactly what I saw, so not a cricket after all!    We raced off through the sand dunes to track the bird down again.   As we scanned, a pair of Desert Sparrow turned up, so after all that effort we were rewarded.   After enjoying them for a few minutes we decided to try for the warbler and then return to the bivouac later for the sparrows which were more likely to stay around.  

Woodchat Shrike

As for the warbler, it called its beautiful song, but generally it remained in the dried up stalks of the dune grasses and gave us very scanty views, before flying off into the distance.   As the heat was building up - by now it was around 9.10 am - we moved back to the camp for some shade and enjoyed trying to photograph the sparrows from a nearby tree.

We were invited into the tent for tea, which, as always, was delightfully

refreshing.   A White-crowned Black Wheatear perched on top of a jeep outside, with a huge camel tick in its bill.   It appeared to be showing off its great prize by finding the most obvious perch, then singing away to draw attention to itself.   We had a great time watching it.   It did elicit an outbreak of itching as we thought about the prospect of those large ticks though!

White-crowned Black Wheatear
with Camel Tick!

By now it was time to meet our second Nomad of the day, this time for Egyptian Nightjar.   Off we drove across the sand, along almost invisible tracks which seemed to meander rather haphazardly through the desert.  We were greeted with yet another tray of tea, this time accompanied by the most delicious salted nuts - what a great way to say hello!  

After several minutes, we were driven just a few hundred yards away from the camp and there sheltering under small bushes to get some relief from the increasingly hot sun were not just one, but two Nightjars.   We bunched together and slowly approached a short distance towards the birds who appeared to be completely oblivious to our presence.   We were quietly enjoying them, taking photos and studying them through bins and scopes, and we spent a considerable time in almost complete silence until a Lanner falcon flew overhead, and even then we were so aware not to disturb that Lee didn't even realise the falcon was overhead.   Eventually we moved off to our lunch stop by the River Ziz, buoyed by our surreal experiences.

Tamarisk Gall

Whilst the drivers prepared our picnic we went for a stroll along the river where we had more warblers, including Subalpine, African Desert, Western Bonelli's and more of our familiar Chiffchaff.   We also had at least two Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters fly by, calling as they went.   I also found a tamarisk gall, which is apparently formed when gall-wasp eggs are deposited on tree branches. The nutlike gall grows until the larvae are completely enveloped. The mature insect bores a hole through the gall in order to escape.

Chiffchaff

Lunch was Moroccan beef burgers which are actually a type of bread which is

stuffed with spicy meat and vegetables and then sliced 'pizza like', fresh

bread and salad followed by oranges and bananas.

After lunch we were off to meet yet another well connected Nomad, (a great day for Nomads!) this time to be introduced to Spotted Sandgrouse.   Again, the locals had their facts right as within minutes we were watching around 60 of the birds as they fed in the rough ground of small bushes and sandy ground.   Once more we savoured the birds and spent much time enjoying them.

A second wander around the river area didn't add much more for the trip, but kept our day list going.   Soon, with the sun starting to set, we were off to the hotel for tea in the garden and dinner.

Egyptian Nighjar

A great day, completed by a rather interesting night drive in the desert.   We were driven round and round in circles, bumping up and down sand dunes, losing our orientation completely.   In the midst of all of this we ended up in a race with a desert hare, the racing hare had far more agility than the Toyota and he left us in a hysterical heap, unable to speak or function for several minutes, with the other vehicle unaware of the delirium at the other end of the radio.

Off to the Desert . . . .

Today was set to be a long day in the vehicles as we moved further east from the stony-desert Hamada to the sandy desert proper.   We set off (as usual) at 6.30 am, and headed for the hills.   We wanted to find Maghreb Wheatear - a close relation of Mourning Wheatear.    We stopped at a village nearby and a local quarry worker said he could take us to the site, so we set off to another part of the quarry.

Western Mourning/Maghreb Wheatear

When we got there he was actually pointing out a Black Wheatear, but the good news was that this diversion did eventually triumph.   As we moved off there was a call from the second vehicle that the bird had been sighted by sharp-eyed Darryl.   So we turned round and rejoined the rest of the group.  As we wandered back to the area we had just been in a pair of Maghreb Wheatear were feeding and perching around the large boulders in the side of the quarry.   We had great views and eventually had to tear ourselves away.   A third bird was spotted as we moved off.  

We travelled through hillside mining towns and several gorges including The Secret Gorge and the Todra Gorge.

We hoped to catch up with Tristram's Warbler, in this area, a stunning bird in the Sylvia genus.   As our vehicles stopped in the gorge a small bird flew away from us and up the scree slope.   Little did I realise at the time that that would be the best view I would have!

Despite seven pairs of diligent eyes scanning the area, we only had very scanty views and Andrew took to pointing out some excellent botanical species which kept our spirits up.

Todra Gorge

The inevitable tea stop was due (all this of course to allow the drivers to arrange the catering for the next few days), and whilst we enjoyed a shady cafe garden we had a pair of Bonelli's Eagle displaying above us.   Cetti's Warbler was singing and coming into a nearby tree - giving great views.   A pair of Blue Rock Thrush appeared to be hunting for a nest site on the steep cliffs above us.   African Blue Tit and House Bunting were feeding nearby.   The tea was great too!

With around 6 hours driving to do we could delay no longer, and we set off for the long haul over to the desert.   As we travelled along, through varying landscapes where the boulders changed to large stones, pebbles and then sand the further east we travelled.

Lunch today was in a very hot but breezy stop at a Nomad camp in the desert.   The area has wells for drawing water from aquifers below the desert, and a great set up with a "Relaxation Tent" which can be used by passing travellers.

Although it was hot, we were keen to have a leg-stretch in the desert, so set off for a river bed some few hundred yards away.   The heat from the sun was searing, although an increasingly breezy wind was helping to stop us completely overheating.   The river bed was completely dry, but a couple of camels were finding some shoots to munch, on nearby trees.   They look so great in their natural environment - so haughty and smug.   Presumably they know that they belong there and we do not!

House Bunting

Lunch was taken in the tent, with a great Berber Tagine - vegetables, meat and eggs baked into a light omelette-style lunch, with lots of lovely fresh bread and salad.

Back on the road, and the wind was getting stronger.   As we continued it was obvious that we were heading into a sandstorm - amazing to watch and be part of, but we were concerned about our birding opportunities being threatened.

A stop by the River Ziz - where Jaffa took us through a building site brought Little Grebe and Grey Heron to the list, and gave the local builders some entertainment.   Here we also spotted a Moroccan Wagtail on the far side of the river.

After some time we went off the main track and headed off into the dust!   We had been told that there was a lake nearby which should add some waterbirds to our trip list.   Lee, Andrew and I were totally disbelieving and ribbed Jaffa relentlessly as we bounced along on the sandy tracks with mile after mile of sand stretched out around us when the storm abated enough for us to see.

We halted by a rubbish tips - we birdwatchers go to all the best places - to watch Brown-necked Ravens.   I noticed a small pale bird, possibly a warbler, land at the base of a nearby shrub.   It promptly disappeared!

Lunch in the "Relaxation Tent"

More driving through the sandstorm finally brought us to the Dayet Sjri Salt Lake.   A host of water birds were seen through the exfoliating sand blast, including:
Ruddy Shelduck, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Grey Heron, Greater Flamingo, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Kentish Plover, Common Greenshank, Gull-billed Tern.  

Jaffa, are we on the Tagdilt Track?

All day on the Tagdilt Track(s), birding heaven.  This was my favourite day of the whole trip.   Mainly because we had just a great day of birding, but also because the landscape was superb with the stony desert Hamada around us.   The whole thing start out with great views of an owl, always a treat to see any owl, especially one in such amazing surroundings.  

Pharaoh Eagle-Owl

So, our first stop of the morning was for Pharaoh Eagle-Owl, and we were successful within minutes of reaching the site.   After enjoying watching for some time and marvelling at the difference in size to the Eurasian Eagle-owl, we were off to another nearby site for some more Hamada specialists.   Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew up ahead of us, and then more joined them until we had seen around 30 of them.   Some were quite close until we tried for photographs and then they shot away at speed.   A couple of skylarks were found after much persistence by Lee.

Hamada Landscape

Temminck's Horned Lark, Thekla Lark, Red-rumped Wheatear (a catch-up for me from the previous day), Woodchat Shrike, Northern Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, Crested Lark, Long-legged Buzzard and to our great delight Hoopoe-lark with its distinctive bill.   Then Hassan the driver of the other vehicle found Cream-coloured Courser, and we all had great views of this beautiful species.

Soon it was time to head off for a coffee stop (hard-core birding at its best!) in the outskirts of town so that our drivers could go for fresh bread and other lunch supplies, and we could sample more of the local tea.   At this roadside cafe we found White Wagtail, House Bunting, House Sparrow and Common Kestrel, Common Swift and Pallid Swift overhead.   This gave us chance to compare the two swift species at close quarters.

The scenery today was fantastic, more dramatic than I could have imagined, with snow topped mountains behind the Hamada landscape which showed off in the bright light to perfection.    Some distant birds flew away from us showing a lot of white, they were not Hoopoe-larks so our supposition was Thick-billed Lark, another speciality of this area.   We set off in hot pursuit across the bumpy ground, up and down the wadis in the general direction the birds had flown.   It was not to be on this occasion however, and after much bumping about we gave up and went off for (yet) another break.

Red-rumped Wheatear

Those in the second vehicle had seen Little Ringed Plover, so as we went back out to the Tagdilt Track we diverted to the small pool to catch up on them.   The two small plovers were easily seen and photos taken.

The drivers dropped us off alongside another wadi so that we could explore on foot whilst they prepared our lunch.   Larks were all around us, mainly Thekla again, but with some Desert and Crested thrown in for good measure.   A large dragonfly (possibly Vagrant or Lesser Hawker) was joined by Painted Lady Butterfly (the High Atlas Mountains being a breeding area for them in Europe) and a rather strange black and white beetle.   As we wandered along a desert hare was flushed, showing off its huge ears and white scut beautifully as it zig -zagged across the stony ground away from us and towards our drivers.

Lunch was fresh bread with chopped green red and yellow peppers, gherkins, olives, cheese, sweetcorn, tomato and tinned tuna.   All washed down with cola or water.   Oranges and bananas made up our dessert.  

Cream-coloured Courser

The breeze was strengthening into a strong wind, and we wrapped up well against it, including covering our mouths and heads.

Fed and watered, and we were off again, this time for the highlight of the trip so far, and one of those birding experiences that happen rarely in a lifetime.   We finally caught up with the Thick-billed Larks.  

We watched a pair of the birds and photographed them from the cars, then we slowly got out and several of the more keen photographers quietly moved forward to get a better shot.   We all gradually joined them on the ground around the happily eating birds.   They were superb, giving us a great show as they fed on seeds and insects just in front of us.   We got remarkably close before one of them realised that they had in fact strayed from the other, a quick contact chirp and they were reunited.

We watched as they flew some short distance away, and meandered across to see them again.   Once more they fed and busied themselves as we watched, thrilled at the experience of being allowed into the confidence of such remarkable birds.   We sat on the ground watching them, and some even lay flat to get the ultimate photo - the birds remained totally at ease, feeding and strutting around in their domain.

Thick-billed Lark

Eventually we had to move on and this time we went off in search of water, for some potential migrant species.   We ended up in a small oasis which our driver Yousef had heard could be good.   Here irrigation channels supply water to several little fields.   Here we had Ring Ouzel, Bluethroat, Tree Pipit, Serin, Swallow, Sand Martin, White Wagtail, Chaffinch, Common Redstart and Collared Dove.

Back towards the hotel as the light subsided and long shadows played on the hillsides, we found Lesser Short-toed Lark and Black-eared Wheatear.

One last wadi to explore and as the nomad's dog barked we decided to keep a healthy distance.   Despite our best efforts we were unable to add anything further to the list so called it quits, and made off for showers, dinner and an early night - for tomorrow we travel to the desert!

So, just to bring the day down to reality, there was one not so pleasant aspect today - the litter!   It appears that plastic bags are simply brought out into the Hamada and dumped wherever the truck driver wants, just for it all to blow around, gathering in the vegetation,  glinting in the sunlight, and generally creating a dismal and depressing sight to those of us who value our environment.

Getting up close and personal

It just brings it home to me that we really cannot stop spreading the word and educating the world to the damage our species is continuing to do to our environment.

I feel a letter coming on . . . . .

The Road to Boulmalne de Dades

Today we left Marrakech for the eastern Hamada land of Toufliht and the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass (2260m).

Chaffinch

We started off by examining the local Magpies more closely so that we could see the diagnostic features of this particular sub species - a bare blue patch of skin behind the eye.   At this same spot we also had fleeting glimpses of Sardinian warbler and Blackcap.

Lunchstop

As we continued on our long drive (at least 5 1/2 hours if you drove non-stop) we kept our eyes peeled for birds along the way.   At our next stop we had Cuckoo - hurray they're on the move! Kestrel, light and dark morph Long-legged Buzzard, Chaffinch (both races) and Chiffchaff.   A long debate raged over a falcon which eventually persuaded my expert companions that it was Barbary Falcon - I enjoyed listening to their musings on feathers and jizz.   Two Barbary Partridge showed themselves momentarily along the ridge several miles away!

Scarce Swallowtail

We carried on to a coffee stop which was just beyond the Tizi-n-Tichka pass where we had Scarce Swallowtail butterfly, another Long-legged Buzzard, Booted Eagle, and many more migrants.

Lunch time was taken at a roadside cafe.   The first treat for me was great views of Sardinian Warbler, a bird which I had failed to be in the presence of on several other trips, and having my appetite whetted first thing this morning, being able to watch this delightful bird at close quarters was brilliant.    Crag Martin swooped around, Subalpine Warbler (fast becoming a favourite as it is such a striking bird, and easy to identify - watch this space on that sweeping statement) and our own Barn Swallow were also noted, along with Painted Lady butterfly.

Lunch was chicken kebab with salad as we sat on a verandah enjoying a view of the hillside, and any passing species.

In the afternoon we stopped for tea (hard-core this birding lark) then moved on for the last part of the journey.   As we neared our next hotel we took a trek through the rough Hamada habitat, where we found Spectacled Warbler, Desert Wheatear, Trumpeter Finch, 'Desert' Southern Grey Shrike - a remarkably pale bird compared with that we should see later in in the Souss Valley.

Hamada Landscape

As the sun set over the stony desert landscape it was an evocative scene with the ever-changing colours of the rocky land around us.   As we wadi-bashed in the dimming light the space and freedom was invigorating, and the thought of a few days exploring this great area was met with eager anticipation.

Oukaimeden, High Atlas

Today we were going up into the High Atlas Mountains, and our aim is to get to the ski resort of Oukaimeden, looking for some mountain specialities.   Before we left the hotel I had to catch up with the House Bunting which was singing outside my room by the pool.   At the front of the hotel we had Pallid

Levaillant's Woodpecker

and Little Swift.

Along the road we saw the local version of Magpie. with it's blue patch near the eye, and large flocks of Spotless Starling, the local equivalent.   Our first stop was prompted by Chris winding his window down - he had heard Levaillant's Woodpecker!   As we got out of the 4x4s one flew over our heads and landed in a tree higher up the hillside, after a few moments  it - and a second individual - moved to a closer tree and gave us excellent views.

Here we also had chance to see Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Serin, Common Bulbul, Common Chaffinch and the Moroccan sub-species which has a greener back and is sometimes referred to as North African Chaffinch.

House Bunting

Soon it was time for us to concentrate on getting higher up towards the 2,600m mark, ss we pressed on, missing several fleeting glimpses along the way.   The road was narrow and twisty and we needed to get up to the top as quickly as possible to maximise our day.   Alpine and Red-billed Chough greeted us.  Crimson-winged Finch and Rock Bunting were all around us, on fences, walls and feeding on the ground.   Higher up Horned Lark fed in large groups, the males looking particularly handsome.   Rock Sparrow and House Sparrow were also seen here.

After walking for some time along the track we decided to retrace our steps and head for lunch.  In a trees by the road we found Mistle Thrush, Serin, Hawfinch and Crossbill.

 By now we had been joined by a nomad who wanted to sell us fossils.   Pete saw it as a personal challenge to do business, the first offer from the seller being 50 dirhams and Pete's response starting at 2!

As we wandered down the valley scanning the low slopes and fields along the way the seller continued to go ahead of us on his moped and then re-find us to try again.  As the slope flattened out we found a flock of Raven feeding with feral pigeons.

Lunch

Soon we were at our restaurant.   Tajine of either chicken or beef was shared amongst us as we ate al fresco in the bright but cool afternoon sunshine.   We reflected on our first morning's birding and looked towards our next session.

We were not out of the fossil-buying woods however and our 'man on a moped' appeared once more.   He skirted around the group looking for any hint of interest and finally sidled up to Pete once more whereupon a final deal was achieved.   The whole thing strung out over about a mile and three hours, but great entertainment!

The afternoon started off higher up where there were few birds, but lots of mountain plants - some flowering.   Early crocus seemed the most numerous, but there were several other species that so far remained unnamed.   Andrew is on the case with the botany ID.   A Long-legged Buzzard circled above us.

Song Thrush

We spent the rest of the day moving slowly back down the mountain road birding as we went, following a small stream where we saw Green Sandpiper, Yellow Wagtail, White-throated Dipper and Water Pipit.

Other birds seen during our travels were Cattle Egret, White Stork, Common Kestrel, Sand Martin, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Black Redstart, Black Wheatear, Mistle Thrush, Common Blackbird, Robin, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Wren, Goldfinch and Greenfinch

Marrakech

After a delayed flight from Gatwick, our arrival in Marrakech left little time for birding on the way to the hotel, but by 7.30 pm we were in the restaurant enjoying our first taste of Moroccan food - buffet style and quite good.   Soup followed by various salads and rice with fish, chicken curry and lamb pieces.   Desert was a creme caramel, a strange dome of some confection and many small cakes of indeterminate flavour.   I had the Moroccan equivalent of a microscopic Bakewell tart (one bite and it was gone) followed by the best thing by far - fresh orange slices with cinnamon - they were sweet and delicious.

After dinner we had an introduction into Moroccan  lifestyles as we took a stroll around the outside of a local park, playing tawny owl in the hope of attracting some interest.

Whilst we didn't get any reaction at all from an owl, I did however get some heckling by a group of chaps who were relieving themselves against a wall along the main road - delightful - and I didn't even have my camera handy!

Thank goodness I am travelling with a group who provided excellent protection in the shape of Chris (from Wise Birding), Lee, Andrew, Darryl, Pete, and Neil.

What a difference a week makes!

At last a lovely bright sunny day without the need for all the thermals and layers.

a Starling with a long bill

My usual weekly wander took me to Bossenden Wood this week.   We parked in a side road and as we donned the walking gear there were lots of birds enjoying feeders and shelter in a nearby garden.   First off were Greenfinch and Siskin with Blue Tit, Great Tit, Robin and a Starling with the longest beak I have come across - it looked more like a hummingbird beak than our familiar Starling!

We took the lane towards the wood and found Goldfinch, Long-tailed Tit and Stonechat and at least 17 Meadow Pipits.  The latter were washing and foraging along the side of the path in a small ditch which held water, as we moved along they flew ahead of us, ending up in a nearby tree until we had passed and then they returned to their preening and eating venue.

Bossenden Wood

Chaffinch, Jay, Magpie and Crow were seen in the fields and hedges, two Great-spotted Woodpeckers flew overhead and another was heard drumming.

Green Woodpecker was the next bird we heard, then Pheasant called and a group of Wood Pigeon perched in the tops of the trees nearby.

In the wood our first flock consisted of Blue Tit, Great Tit. Siskin and Long-tailed Tit, all lovely to see and hear.   Our mid-morning stop was accompanied by the insistent "teacher, teacher" of Great Tit.   In fact the whole day was just full of birdsong, the sun doing it's work bringing out their joy which just encouraged ours too.

Butcher's Broom 

The afternoon started off down a wide ride between the trees.  Signs of spring were not just restricted to birds with a Water Boatman [or Backswimmer] Notonecta glauca which had got itself stranded on the path, so we moved it back to the puddles.    We saw Butchers Broom Ruscus aculeatus  again - Sally remembered this from our last visit.   A strange plant with leaves that are actually flat shoots known as cladodes which give the appearance of stiff, spiny-tipped leaves. The small greenish flower sprouts from the middle of this.    A ladybird was using the closed leaves at the end of one branch as a safe haven.

We added Song Thrush, Blackbird, Buzzard to our list during the afternoon which was punctuated with many more of the mornings species, and a couple of Pied Wagtails when we got back to the road again.

Optimism is a wonderous thing . . . .

I am starting to struggle to maintain my enthusiasm for this birding lark.

With cold grey and windy days week in week out I am starting to wonder when I will be able to leave some of the layers behind and look through the binoculars and telescope without my eyes watering (and not with the emotion of great bird sightings I might add!)

So, this week we started at Cliffe Pools, a really silly thing to do given the forecast, but you can't dodge in and out of cafes the whole winter long.    Around the car park we saw Robin, Wren, Magpie, Woodpigeon (surprise, surprise), a family of Long-tailed Tits flitted about in the holly and ivy at the end of the drive.   As we passed the cottages a Dunnock was spotted by Sally.

To change the format we went off towards Timber and Alpha pools and took the footpath leading through the farm which has just started to welcome the newly arrived lambs.   They were so cute it is hard to believe that they will end up in a butchers someday, but for now it was great just to watch them trying to run, jump and chase each other.

On to the birds seen in the fields around us, a dozen Moorhen enjoyed rummaging in the bottom of a hedge, whilst Starlings and Blackbirds were joined by Redwing and Fieldfares a little further out in full view.

In amongst the lambs more Redwing and Fieldfare were enjoying the food which had been provided by the animals.   Beyond the field we walked through the others were flooded and ducks had taken advantage of this with Gadwall, Shoveler, Teal, Pochard, Mallard and Wigeon present.   Further back a Little Egret strutted along the rills looking for a tasty morsel.

Bird watching was put onto the back burner for a while as we continued along the footpath through the Bretts site, but once we got to the other side there were the two lakes to scan.   More Wigeon, Pochard and Mallard were joined by Coot, Tufted Duck, Great Crested Grebe and Little Grebe.  There were a couple of birds which looked like some sort of Pochard hybrid.   As I scanned with the telescope I noticed a bird moving along the reedbed - not on the ground but flying along in small "hops", at first I thought it was a Water Rail, but on a second view the wings weren't right for that species.   I thought it was a raptor of some type but given the split-second views it was hard to judge.   However when it eventually stopped in somewhat cryptic landscape it was obviously a bird of prey, but which?   Over to Malcolm who first thought it was a Merlin, but then as it turned the head confirmed Sparrowhawk.

As we continued it became obvious that the route was blocked with water, so we had to retrace our steps.
By the farm buildings we heard a couple of Jays chuntering away to each other making a racket, and then realised why as a Little Owl called out in alarm.   After several calls all went quiet and the Jays moved off.

Next stop Bromhey Farm, we had lunch watching the feeders with Lesser Redpoll, Chaffinch and Blue and Great Tit.   We soon moved off to get the blood moving in an attempt to warm up.   We headed off for the Heronry, via the Marshland Viewpoint.   The Scrapes were full and there were lots of birds on them - even the three new diggings were being enjoyed by the birds.   Shelduck, Shoveler, Mallard, Pochard, Wigeon, Teal and Mute Swan were the main species seen on the first two pools.   Lapwings were the most numerous by far on the new diggings beyond the CSA building.  They were flying up in huge flocks swooping around as they were spooked by other birds.

After a muddy walk in front of the Heronry and Rookery where we saw and heard very little we decided to call it quits and returned to base.

We had a good day out with Paul and Gill joining the usual quartet, but I can't wait to have a brighter milder day with some migrants - or am I being fickle?

Bird Ringing

I spent the morning with two local ringers at a local reserve.

I always find it fascinating to get the opportunity to see birds close up and see how small, fragile and beautiful they are.   It makes their migration journeys seem even more amazing.

The species ringed were: Blue and Great Tit, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Long-tailed Tits (my favourites), and the delightful Lesser Redpoll - the chance to see their pink blushed plumage so clearly was a real pleasure.

Can't wait to go again when the warblers are coming through.

Thanks to Roger and Steve for allowing me to accompany them, and letting me release some of the birds.

Stoddie and Blean

So, after a lovely weekend, it was back to the reality of housework, hospital visits and meetings.   No wonder my head hurt!

One of the begging Robins

At least I had Wednesday to look forward to with the usual bird watching walk.   Although cold, it was bright - something we have not had the luxury of for a few weeks - and we decided to start off at Stodmarsh.   The weather forecast had said an easterly wind would be blowing up the Thames, so inland was the order of the day.   When we arrived at Stodmarsh the car park was full as a Penduline Tit had been reported there over the last few days.

Robin

We followed the duck boarded path from the car park, where we had seen Blue Tit and Great Tit, through the cleared area and into the woodland.   Having just mentioned that I expect to see a Treecreeper here, one appeared!   Malcolm suggested that I reel off a list of other birds to see if the magic would continue.   A couple of Robin cheekily begged for food and after some persuasion Irene gave up some of her cereal bar for the cause resulting in excellent views and photo opportunities.

Reedmace seed dispersal

There were many Blackbirds and Chaffinch, a few Wren and then Malcolm spotted some Redpolls high up in an alder, as we watched I realised that there were Siskin in with them.   The Redpolls were delightfully coloured, one male in particular had a bright pink/red front and showed off really well in the shady light of the trees.

As we moved out of the wood we found a group of bird watchers and photographers lined up along the boardwalk, presumably waiting for the Penduline Tit to appear.   We waited for a while, enjoying the Reedmace - it was great to see it in the sunshine as the seedheads were breaking up and clumps of seeds flew around in the breeze.   and the sunshine, then moved off towards the main path.  By now it was getting cold as we left the protection of the reedbed, so we scanned the water and found Mallard, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Mute Swan, Moorhen, Coot and Shoveler.   Sally spotted a female Marsh Harrier on the far side of the reserve, a couple of Greylag Geese and several Cormorant flew over.

We returned to the car park adding Long-tailed Tit, Great-Spotted Woodpecker and Dunnock.   Malcolm also managed to track down a few galls including a Bramble Gall - perhaps he can tells us more on that one!

Blean Wood

Next stop M&S for some sandwiches as Malcolm and Sally (how appropriate!) needed supplies, then on to East Blean Wood.   As we lunched in the car we enjoyed the birds being tempted into the car park by the food on the fence posts.   Robin, Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Coal Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Jay all enjoyed the seeds and peanuts.

We set off on a very wet route with a stick to help us vault over the muddy pools there was a distinct lack of birdsong.   As is often the case, most of the life was attracted to the car park where food is provided.   Blackbird and Woodpigeon were added to the site list and Jackdaws were heard well before we saw any.

Throughout the wood there were dormouse boxes and piles of wood and leaves at the base of the trees, presumably to offer more natural hibernating places for wildlife.

Bristol

Today Carol, Kevin, Bob and myself started off at a park in the centre of Bristol where Kevin had been told you could get close to Grey Squirrels and Jays.   Obviously the Jays were my interest, and we made a quick stop off at the local pet food suppliers for peanuts.   Fat balls were cheap too, so I filled the boot of Bob's car.

Grey Squirrel

Within minutes of our arrival we had Grey Squirrels (literally) eating out of our hands.   Carol enjoyed the experience, and the three photographers, took the opportunity to hone their skills.   Mine are still sadly lacking in composition.

Although crocus and primroses were out, and Crows and Woodpigeon vied with the squirrels for the nuts, we had not even a whisper of a Jay.

Next stop was Severn Beach (after a quick stop off for lunch).  The tide was receding and the mud was giving support for Redshank, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Teal and Wigeon.   In the distance a large flock of small waders - possibly Dunlin - were swooping around.

Sunset over the Severn Bridge

 After a very soggy walk we drove to another area which we had visited last year, Aust Wharf and Cliff.   The bright sunshine was bringing lots of folk out and although we were sure this was where the Dunlin settled, they were no longer around, people and dogs probably gave too much disturbance.   Also as time went on the tide revealed more mud options for them away from view.

As the sun started to set we took the chance of a few shots, and then it was back for dinner.

Starling Roost

Spending a few days with friends in Bristol gave an excellent opportunity to enjoy some new parts of the country.

A surprisingly mild and bright day.   We started in the Mendips overlooking open countryside - well we would have done if there wasn't a thick fog at that height!   Skylark were singing well, heralding the oncoming spring.   Crow, Dunnock, Magpie and Common Buzzard were all seen whilst we waited for the fog to clear.

Common Buzzard

Not to be defeated, we moved off to Glastonbury Tor - the skies were clear and with warmer weather we ascended without coats - my first venture out without five layers for weeks!

Jackdaws followed the grazing sheep flock, a well marked Common Buzzard flew overhead.   We gasped and staggered as we moved on up the steep path to the top where we had brilliant views of the Somerset Levels.   Huge areas are still flooded after all the rain recently.

Eventually we took the descent - far easier than the earlier journey.   No wonder the website says that everyone comes back down smiling and chatting - probably because they are out of breath and close to collapse on the way up!

Glastonbury Tor

The final treat of the day was a trip to try and see the Starling Roost at Ham Wall.   Bob was after photographs and I was after a great wildlife spectacle.

The Sky full of Starlings!

I won out - there were anything up to 2 million birds gathering.   As the light started to fade the sky turning a beautiful red, birds arrived from all directions - they cover many miles to find a safe haven for the night, and these birds had come from all over Somerset.   Rather too far away to photograph, the sky was black with birds, sadly we didn't get the dramatic patterns in the sky that make it into the news but I was absolutely delighted and moved to tears by it.

[Also saw Woodcock flying away from us over the reedbed - another great sight]

Thanks to Bob for a great day out.

Valentines Day

HAPPY VALENTINES DAY X

Over to Essex

After several weeks of being frozen we veered on the side of comfort this week and made for Rainham Marshes where there are hides to shelter in and an excellent cafe to provide some warmth and refreshment.

Dunnock, Robin and Collared Dove were joined by Blackbirds and all before we had left the car park.   I counted over 30 Collared Doves in the area, mostly utilising the easy pickings around the feeders and then perching on the fence and lights in the area.

Lapwing and Golden Plover

After a chat with the informative team inside the centre we were off in search of a cornucopia of species - all probably long-gone but nevertheless enticing.   From the ramp we overlooked the feeders and scrapes and quickly added Goldfinch, Chaffinch, Starling, House Sparrow, Woodpigeon, Blue Tit, Great Tit and Carrion Crow at the feeders and Black-headed Gull, Wigeon, Mute Swan, Grey Heron, Little Egret, Shoveler and Lapwing on the nearest scrape.

We did the usual circuit (anticlockwise from the visitor centre) and Song Thrush was found by Sally and Irene perched high in a tree some way off.   A Reed Bunting flew towards us as one of the reserve volunteers flushed it from the other direction.   First a female was seen and then a male appeared some while later.   A circuit of the old Cordite Store revealed little.   This area has been quite disturbed by work carried out recently.   Huge areas of buddleia appear to have been cleared and pathways have appeared through the brambles.

Wigeon

There were more Chaffinch and Tits at the reedbed feeding station, and here Coots and Magpie joined in, enjoying the bits dropped by other species.

By the fossilised wood we looked back at the treeline in an attempt to find a Barn Owl which had been seen in the area.  Although we could see the two boxes which had been described to us, there were no birds in sight.   We moved further along the path to get a better angle, but still no luck.   The scrapes along the northern side of the reserve had Tufted Duck, Mallard, Shelduck, and lots more Lapwing.   From the hide I found a Snipe - on the edge of a pool almost hidden in the reeds, but giving itself away as it preened.

More Lapwing (over 2,000 are estimated to be present), and a large contingent of Golden Plover stood on one of the raised banks in the scrape.   Greylag and Canada Geese were in the far fields beyond the pools.   As we had elevenses we watched Pintail, Great Crested Grebe and Moorhen.  On the way back to the centre for lunch we added Pied Wagtail and Wren.   I spotted a group of Linnet whilst scanning the bushes with the telescope but they eluded everyone else unfortunately.

Barn Owl well hidden

Warmed and with renewed enthusiasm we took the clockwise route in the afternoon and determined to try for the Barn Owl again.   A large flock of Black-tailed Godwits flew in off the river, along with a tight-knit group of Dunlin.   Common Gull was spotted by Malcolm, Curlew by Sally and Irene.   A Water Rail was heard by all, and spotted by Malcolm.

Marsh Harriers, Stock Dove, Kestrel and Pheasant were spotted, and finally, on our way back along the northern path we finally spotted one of the Barn Owls.   It was well hidden in the roosting box with just the face showing - but regardless of the quality of the view, it was delightful to see.

When will we learn . . . . . .

. . . . .  that twitching is a waste of time and energy

Missed the Hawfinch at Barming, Smew and Bittern at Leybourne, the Shag at Chatham, and got rained off at Mereworth.   Not much to say about a wet cold Wednesday in February, but we made the best of it despite the wind and sleet.

Goldfinch feeding

So, after much discussion over the benefits of Blean and Barming, Barming won out as there was the possibility of catching up with Hawfinch.   As we arrived so did a party of four others.   The bird had been spotted at 8.30 am today, so we were probably two hours too late.   We did find a close Goldfinch, several Magpies, Chaffinch, Blue and Great Tit, and rather a lot of Woodpigeons, but the Hawfinch eluded us.   A Sparrowhawk shot through and spooked birds along the valley.

As we had stood about in the Churchyard in freezing conditions we decided to have a run over to Mereworth.   With our trusty "satnav" Malcolm, we were soon lost and heading into the depths of Kent.   Luckily between Irene and Malcolm they managed to trace our position on the map and after an 'about-turn' we were off down narrow lanes to find somewhere to park.   It started to rain so we sat and enjoyed a leisurely "elevenses" before admitting defeat and deciding to move on.

Leybourne Lakes was our next attempt at some birdwatching, with a walk along the lake.   Goldfinch flocks busied themselves feeding in nearby trees.   A rather pale looking female Blackbird came close and a cheeky Robin snapped up a few dried mealworms which I had taken with me.   Mute Swan, Black-headed Gull, Herring Gull, Greylag and Canada Geese, Tufted Duck, Coot, Moorhen, Great-crested Grebe, Little Grebe and Mallard were battling with the heavy swell created by the strong wind.   A couple of Cormorant were balanced on buoys.   A tree on the other side of the lake had several Magpies in it, and more flew around calling noisily.   A Blackthorn tree was just starting to flower, absolutely loaded with buds, I managed to find this fully open flower.

Blackthorn Flower

We decided to wander to Abbey Meads, but as we negotiated the muddy footpath we realised that it would be hard to get a good view of the lake.  We still managed to find more Gadwall and Pochard, Kingfisher (thanks to Irene), Collared Dove and Dunnock were also additions on this part of our walk.

The afternoon was cut a little short when a rather sharp and cold downpour fell on us.    Near the car park we found a Mistle Thrush perched on a tree - just a little too far away for a decent photo, but then I'm no David Bailey!

The final stop was at the Canal Basin at Chatham.   Very little there for once as the weather was cold, windy and threatening to rain (again!) but we managed to see Black-headed Gull, Herring Gull, Woodpigeon, Magpie, Mute Swan and Cormorant.

Perched Mistle Thrush

By now it was "home James and don't spare the horses" - we were freezing cold and the tea and biscuits at Malcolm and Sallys were very welcome.

Cliffe Pools and Northward Hill

Wandered around Cliffe Pools today with the local RSPB Group.  

Female Marsh Harrier

The reserve has always been a great place to see large numbers of water birds in the winter and today was no exception.   With huge flocks of Wigeon, Gadwall, Little Grebe, Coot, Lapwing, Shelduck, Shoveler, Teal, Pintail and Greylag Geese.   There were several Goldeneye females, with a very smart male showing well.   [later, on Flamingo Pool, we found another small flock of several females, with a male].  

On the islands in the pools there were roosting Wigeon, Black-tailed Godwit and Golden Plover.   As we watched, a huge number - possibly thousands - of Godwit flew in, several banks of at least 50 birds swooped in showing in huge bands in the sky.   We followed them in awe as they continued to arrive, flock after flock of delightful birds showing their white wing-bands as they turned and banked before landing on already crowded islands.  

Little Egret, Grey Heron and Cormorant stood around the edge of the pools, and occasionally they flew overhead to reposition themselves.    Amongst the many Little Grebe I found a Black-necked Grebe.

Scrape at Northward Hill

At Cliffe Creek Black-headed Gulls and Redshank were the only birds visible.    Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Robin, Blackbird and Dunnock were the only other additions.   On the far side of the pools two female Marsh Harriers disturbed both the Starling and Crows in the area.

On to Northward Hill for the afternoon, and although it was very cold, I managed an outdoor lunch albeit birding around the car park.   Again Chaffinch, Blue Tit and Great Tit were the mainstays here with a Green Woodpecker, Collared Dove and a couple of Blackbirds nearby.   Sadly the feeders were empty and there were no birds behind the screened area.

From the viewpoint we surveyed the new scrape areas and again large numbers of Teal and Wigeon, Coot and Greylag were present.   In the soggy fields large numbers of Fieldfare with a few Redwing thrown in either fed or bathed.

Two Grey Heron were found in the fields in front of the usual Heronry area, it can only be a matter of time before they are back on nests again.

Warley Place

A quick wander around Warley Place in Essex with Ken at the weekend gave me a great opportunity to see whether fat and peanuts smothered on tree trunks brings birds in.

We will have to wait and see what happens next, but after the first hour and a half there was no response.

Blue Tit, Great Tit, Coal Tit, Chaffinch, Moorhen, Magpie and Woodpigeon were spotted from the first hide.   We decided to move on to the further hide and here found much the same, with the welcome addition of Goldcrest, Nuthatch (Ken's photographic muse) and (Yippee!) Firecrest.

No photos but good memories.