Time flies when you're having this much fun . . .

Day six dawns and its another transfer day, but first back to Huben and a hectic few minutes as we left the bus with Black Drongo, Striated Swallow, Taiwan Barbet, Japanese White-eye, Blue Magpie, Grey Treepie and Brown Shrike.   Better was yet to come however as our local expert took us into a small farmed area with banana trees and surprisingly a mist net.  There were a team of ringers on site.   As we settled to listen for Black-necklaced Scimitar-babbler it started to rain, so we used umbrellas and banana leaves to give some shelter.   We waited listening as a bird called for what felt like ages for the bird to appear.   A couple of us had fleeting glimpses as it moved in the bush but only our guides saw it well . . . . as we moved around the area, a Taiwan Barbet was spotted in the mist net, and with two very experienced Bird Ringers in our group we hastened over to extract it and get it out of the rain.   As we neared the nets however we also found the Scimitar-babbler!

Brown Shrike

The Ringers took a bird each, extracted them, the Scimiter-Babbler was a retrap, but the Barbet was an unringed bird and we were able to take it back to the ringing team, and the extractor, Phil,  had the pleasure of ringing it whilst we all watched on - no pressure there.   It was great to see two birds in the hand, and have the chance of seeing them so well - even if the Barbet did bite its rescuer several times!

Time to move on as more birds and a long drive awaited us.   We had very scanty views of the Vinous-throated Parrotbill, an Emerald Dove and delightful views of a young Black Drongo family with two juveniles.   They perched on a telegraph wire waiting for the parents to feed them - another ahhh moment.

Next stop a reserve set up to increase awareness of Pheasant-tailed Jacana.

Stunning Pheasant-tailed Jacana

We followed paths around the reserve with hides which were populated by enthusiastic photographers wielding large telephoto lenses and shutters which fired off like AK47's.   Moorhen and Little Grebe were our first spots, then a Pheasant-tailed Jacana was spotted, then several more - elegant and striking, they were a real treat.  A Chinese Pond-heron in breeding plumage was good to see - I saw them previously in their non-breeding colours which did not do them justice.  Great White and Little Egret stalked amongst the lilies.

We moved out of the reserve proper and looked over the nearby fields, an Oriental Pratincole flew over along with a Cuckoo with its distinctive flight.   An Oriental Skylark was heard, and then found hovering high up, just to parachute down in that fashion we are so used to at home.   Ring-necked Pheasant called but remained unseen in the long tufts of reedy grasses.    I spotted a large white bird of prey, which was identified as a White-bellied Sea-eagle, then we found a huge 'kettle' or spiral of birds - around 150, which were Chinese Sparrowhawk.

Oriental Pratincole
(with Eastern Yellow Wagtail in the background)

Lunch called and we stopped at a roadside restaurant where they found us a private dining room.  As usual, the food began to arrive within minutes.   Soup with mushrooms, special fried rice, tofu in soy sauce, bamboo in mayonnaise with cabbage and the by now expected steamed vegetable greens.

Our journey continued with a stop at a harbour where we hoped to see some gulls and terns.   Tree Sparrows were perched on the mopeds parked by the fishermen, a Long-tailed Shrike sat up on an old cactus flower.   We cut through some rough ground and onto the pier.   Over 300 cattle egret flew over off the sea on migration, they were mixed with some Intermediate and Little Egret.   Their colours were brilliant -a rich orange head neck and throat with a red bill, so unlike the ones we see in Europe.   Eastern Yellow Wagtail were coming over in large groups too.

Cattle (and Little) Egret Migration

Caspian, Greater Crested and Little Tern were spotted flying through, some feeding, but we dipped out completely on the Gulls . . . . . .  we have decided that Taiwan has no gulls whatsoever!

On the road again

Today we leave the hills for a more low lying area, but with a few stops on the way for key species.

Unfortunately we woke to rain and low cloud, which made our post-breakfast birding at the top of the mountain rather unproductive.   Although we heard lots of Shortwings, and had a few fleeting glimpses as they flew, we didn't manage a good look at one complete bird.

Shrine

There were a few White-whiskered Laughing-thrush, a Cuckoo was calling in the distance, Johnstone's robin was also around giving us a good show, but the edge was taken off our pleasure by the weather, so we retreated.

Back at camp we loaded the bus and made our way down the mountain to 0km, stopping on the way for Huwamei, which eventually showed well after some dodging about, along with Grey-cheeked Fulvetta.   A Malayan Night-heron flew overhead.

Lunch was excellent - a Taiwanese banquet with many dishes, including ferns, mushrooms, beef with chilli and ginger, whole fish with pineapple, prawns in tempura batter with pineapple, all delicious.

Back on the road and heading for Douliou there were Barn Swallows over the town- we had noticed some Swallows nesting on buildings around the town, and then feeding up and down the streets, shame we seem to be losing our hirundine - probably due to our desire to destroy all insects in the vicinity!

New Raised Motorway

As we neared Linbei village we stopped for some bird watching along the river.   We parked near a butterfly conservation area set up by a local man who wanted to do something to protect the Crow Butterflies as they migrate.   A new raised motorway had been constructed and many of the butterflies were killed by trucks
and vehicles on the new road.   They raised money to get a net fence erected along the side of the road so that the Butterflies had to fly higher over the road thus missing the vehicles - simple and apparently extremely effective.   To support all their hard work they have also constructed a garden with butterfly mosaics and carvings on seats where the locals can rest in the shade and enjoy the flowers.  They also have toilets which are a major plus when on the road, albeit portaloos of the 'squat' variety - too much information for you ?

Crested Myna

So, back to birds.   Little Ringed Plover flew around, apparently they nest on the shingle in the middle of the river, but often get flooded out.   Tree Sparrow were utilising the new road structure for nest sites.   Two new birds for our trip list here were Crested Myna and Yellow-bellied Prinia, and although others saw Parrot-bill I missed out in this occasion.

Back on the road and we stopped next at Huben, home of Fairy Pitta.    Although they hadn't arrived here yet, we had plenty to keep us busy with a Maroon Oriole nest, and a female spotted.   We also had another 'ahhh' moment with a pair of Grey-capped Pygmy-woodpecker pair bonding with the male,feeding the female - marvellous to watch.

At the metro hotel in Douliou we were opposite the train station where there was a demonstration from groups of young people dancing and playing drums.   Very colourful to watch.   Nearer to us on the 12th floor we had bats flying in competition with Swallows ans Martins for food.  

We went to the local Dundee steak house for steak with a Taiwanese twist.   Filet mignon was great with a choice of noodles, beansprouts, odd mushrooms, cooked and raw fish, bamboo shoots, to name but a few and then onion and soy sauce starter.   The main course had a small garnish and then there were an array of deserts which I managed to avoid in favour of fruit.   On of the offerings was coffee jelly which was pronounced as being 'coffee flavoured and jelly'!

Douilou Skyline

Back at the hotel we had the chance for a decent bath or shower in a warm room, bliss . . . then we could hear Nightjar outside.   We had read that they roost on the flat roofs of the buildings in the town and sure enough having seen one fly past we then had the thrill of hearing two birds calling very close.   We
couldn't find them in the dark, but those balconies were priceless for their views.

Dasyeushan - the lower road

I did some moth photography this morning before breakfast (some amazing specimens, but none recognisable!) and as it was raining we only managed about 20 minutes of our pre-breakfast birding session in the grounds, before we decamped back to the rooms until 7.   We did find Ashy Wood-pigeon in a dead tree in the garden, some more of our old friends the Laughing-thrushes - this time the Rufous-crowned variety - along with Taiwan Yuhina and Sibia before we left for the day.

Grey-chinned Minivet

After breakfast we went off to the police station just outside the drive of the recreational area to try for some new species.  Collared owlet was calling but refused to respond, we had a male White-browed Robin but little else of note.

Further down the road we stopped at another car park and walked back up the road a short way.   This area was quite productive with Grey-chinned Niltava (another good spot by Phil), a male and female White-tailed Robin, a pair of Black-throated Tit - one with nesting material which we watched until we found their nest which appeared to be made of ferns, lichens and mosses.   Rufous-faced warblers had been with us for the last few days, embarrassingly close on many occasions but eluding our sight - driving us mad with their calls.   This morning was no different!

Asian House Martin collecting nesting material

We did hear a flower-pecker and see one on flight bit it was impossible to get anything on it - another one bites the dust!    We did have an excellent view of a Taiwan Barwing, which gave us a great show before flying off into the distance through the dense forest.   A Swinhoe's Pheasant shot across the road at one stage.

We stopped at a bridge which is well known for Asian House Martin - there must have been around 150 of them frantically collecting moss and soil which had collected on the smoothed stones on the side of the hill.   They wheeled around and performed acrobatic dances in the sky as they built their nests under the bridge.

Taiwan Yuhina

Overhead we had Indian Black Eagle and Crested-serpent Eagle.   White-backed Woodpecker was seen and better views of Rufous-capped Laughing-thrush.   Finally the Rufous-faced Warbler showed itself, giving scanty views at first, but with perseverance we eventually saw two birds really well.   Down near km 13 we added Spotted Dove for the day, White-rumped Munia, and heard Black-necklaced Scimitar-babbler, we were also back in the land of the Chinese Bulbul and Tree Sparrow.

After an excellent lunch, probably the best so far, we were back off up the road to try for some of those species we had missed this morning.

Fairy Pitta was heard calling - in fact we had them most of the day, which is great, but they obviously were not going to show themselves, having just arrived on migration, and being Pittas!  

Yellow Tit was our first notable find of the afternoon, and much as the Liocichla, Sibia, Ashy Woodpigeon, and  Swinhoe's Pheasant are great, we were delighted to find this enigmatic little bird, with a lovely blue/black crest showing beautifully against the yellow face and breast.

The Dasyeushan Hills

We watched the interaction between a couple of Grey-chinned Minivets, the brighter coloured male collected a caterpillar and feed the female in a pair bonding exchange.   Eurasian Jay was next on the tick list, and our final bird for the day was by far the best with much anticipation.   We had spent several sessions looking for Taiwan Wren-babbler which was another species we had heard close over the last couple of days but which had remained typically out of sight.

We made our final stop of the day back at the police station, where the owlet was calling again.   The Wren-babbler called from the fern-covered bank on the opposite side of the road and we followed it up and down several,times, unable to spot it.   At one stage I saw a glimpse of a bird as it moved but then could not see it again.   Finally after much frustration our guide spotted it right in front of us.   He pointed it out and we all had the most incredible views, the tiny little bird was moving around like a mouse, keeping to the dark covered areas, but with patience we had fantastic views.

Seaweed Soup, Chicken and Ferns!

After much congratulations we went off with broad smiles to have our team photograph taken with the local constabulary - lets hope it was not for anything sinister!

Dasyeushan - the upper road

Today we met at 6 am for a pre-breakfast visit higher up the hill to try to see Mikado Pheasant. We failed on that count but did see Flamecrest well, a pair of Vinaceous Rosefinch, the male looking handsome in his deep red plumage and the female a more dull brown.   A Spotted Nutcracker was heard and then moments later appeared above us landing in a nearby tree, a lot browner than its European cousin.   A pair of Large-billed Crow similarly presented themselves.   The high pitched whistle of Yellow-bellied Bush-warbler could be heard and it took us ages to finally see the bird itself, even though all eyes were on the relevant bush!

White-whiskered Laughing-thrush

A small group of Green-backed Tit flitted around in a nearby tree, confusing us by settling themselves with the Flamecrest pair.   White-whiskered Laughing-thrush were everywhere once again, entertaining us with their bouncing run, coming close in hoping for food.   The Steer's Liocochla once again delighted us with their beautiful plumage.

As we drove back to breakfast the bus shuddered to a halt as a White-backed Woodpecker was spotted in a tree by the side of the road.   As we stopped it flew off to another nearby trunk.   We disembarked and watched as it worked its way around us, finally disappearing up the hillside and out of view.

Striped Squirrel

After our Chinese breakfast of rice soup, omelette, noodles, toast with tasteless fluorescent pink or orange spread - jam is too good a description for this weird jelly, steamed buns, salted peanuts and ground pork, we were ready for anything.

The birds for the rest of the day came in manageable groups always with the presence of White-whiskered Laughing-thrush: with Taiwan Bush-warbler, Yellow-bellied Bush-Warbler, and Johnstone's Robin around Heaven Lake ~ what a lovely name.

Lunch at the top of the hill was soon over and our afternoon started with a walk at the highest part of the park, we then moved down to various known birdwatching points along the way.   We found more Flamecrest, Nutcracker, Green-backed Tit, Johnstone's Robin, then lovely Black-throated Tit - so undersold in the field guide!  Taiwan Barwing was a great find - a beautiful bird which gave us great views, and Winter Wren was calling as we left for lower altitudes.

Mikado Pheasant

Next stop was for the Mikado Pheasant and we had to wait some time before a lovely male came in to the area where grain had been placed.   We were entertained by squirrels and the laughing thrushes, and also by a very heavily kitted out photographer who had two cameras set up on tripods.   When the pheasant started to approach he got a pop up mobile hide out of the car and proceeded to get a third camera out of his car, all most amusing.

The pheasant played his part well, jumping up on a stone and giving good views of his front and side, and then proceeded to turn so that his tail could be seen as well.   He decided that we could only have a certain quota of his time and scurried across the road like an over-sized roadrunner, with his tail held proudly high.   Striking as it is, I still think that the Swinhoe's Pheasant is a more stunning bird with its lovely white plumes and vermiculations on the back.

Not wishing to leave the birding day here, we were off in search of Little Fork-tail, and thanks to some eagle-eyed spotting by Denis we found that within minutes of arriving at the suggested waterfall site.

The final site of the day was at the Park Headquarters where we added Siberian Nuthatch to our list.

Watch Out - there's a Pheasant About!

Back for dinner, a hot bath and an early night.

Off to the Hills

Breakfast was another interesting mix of Asian and western cuisine, we are far more sanguine today and all feeling a little jet-lagged - I had been awake since 2 am, and unable to get much sleep since, our 7am breakfast was a welcome start to the day.

Taipei Skyline

Bags packed and we were off to join the main freeway running down the west of the island taking a coastal route south and then up into more hilly territory.

We stopped at various sites along the way during the morning, repeating some of our sightings from yesterday and adding Dunlin, Red-necked Stint, a very distant and unidentifiable gull, and over 100 Black-winged Stilt.

An accipiter appeared at one stage, possibly Besra, but as we were hurtling along the motorway it was hard for our experts to positively id it.  

After spending some time examining paddy fields and a river it was time for the long stage of our journey, so out came the books, diaries and iPods for some and snoozing for the others (who shall remain nameless!).

Lunchtime bird-watching spot

We stopped at a restaurant for lunch along the way and added Grey-capped Pygmy-woodpecker, Crested Goshawk and Collared Finchbill.   At a stop to buy beer for the next three nights we had Striated Swallow with Barn Swallow, allowing a great close comparison of the two species.

We arrived at Dasyueshan Recreational Park around 4.45 pm, got our keys and then went off up the road to an area where Swinhoe's Pheasant are fed.   Without much delay a male appeared, fed for a short while and then delighted us all by scurrying across the road giving a great view.   Once again we were pleased to
see various photographers staking out the birds and taking an interest, although probably not birdwatchers in the truest sense of the word, they at least appreciate the birds for their beauty - and presumably the kudos and money that follow when a good picture is taken!

Taiwan Sibia, Taiwan Yuhina and Steer's Liocochla were heard and seen well, and a Fairy Pitta called but remained (as expected) hidden.   Dusky Fulvetta also called but remained off my seen list.   Grey-hooded Fulvetta showed momentarily.

Swinhoe's Pheasant and Red-bellied Tree Squirrel

All the while we had White-whiskered Laughing-thrush jumping about at our feet and looking for food as they have become used to taking advantage of the feeding stations set out for the pheasants.

We wandered along the road, and after a while our driver beckoned us to join him, signalling that we should be quiet in our approach.   Just over the railing at the roadside, at another area where grain is thrown, a Taiwan Partridge fed, oblivious to the gathering photographers above.

Excellent views were had by most of us.   Then it was time to check-in, eat and have an early night before the rigours of another day's hard birdwatching - hopefully Mikado Pheasant awaits us.

The Eastern Odyssey begins . . .

Our first day in Taiwan and we were in the capital Taipei.   We left Heathrow late on Sunday, changed at Hong Kong and arrived in Taiwan late on Monday evening - the seven hour time difference making it's mark on us all.

We started off with birds from the hotel with the familiar, (but introduced) Magpie followed by Feral Pigeon, Tree Sparrow and Barn Swallow. We also picked up a few more exotic species namely Asian Glossy Starling, Spotted Dove, Japanese White-eye, Chinese Bulbul and a Great White Egret.   Amazing what you can see from a hotel room window!

After an eclectic breakfast of things like toast with Anchor butter from New Zealand and Smuckers jam and marmalade from USA, next to noodles, pak choi, strange fish dishes, odd looking cakes and pastries, completed by fruit and cereals.

Elegant Entrance to the Garden

Our first stop was at Taipei Botanical Gardens where the locals  practise Tai Chi in the shade of the trees. There are wooden board-walks with handrails which older, less able people used for support as they walked around the gardens.   Many carers or young family members were helping the older generations enjoy the gardens.   

We were not alone in our bird watching, there were several locals who stopped to chat to our guide, asking what we were watching, then taking as much delight as ourselves in Taiwan Barbet.   Our list included Himalayan Black Bulbul, Black-naped Monarch, Moorhen and Little Egret.  At one point a Malayan Night-Heron dropped from its perch right next to us and fed on bugs in the grass as we watched and photographed it.  

Malayan Night-Heron

As we left the gardens a colourful parade was passing down the street with drums beating - a Tao parade.   Check out the background to Tao-ism,  but basically it was a celebration of Ying and Yang and a holistic natural approach to life.

We left the buzz of the city and headed north towards the coast, along the way, in the paddy fields we had eastern cattle egret - looking far more handsome in their extensive rusty plumage than the European ones I have seen before,  House Swifts were spotted as we continued towards The Geopark - an area where tourists congregate to look at strangely eroded rock statues and have their photos taken next to them.   There were also large school groups enjoying this outdoor classroom.    

Black-crowned Night-Heron

Plain Prinia gave themselves away as they sang from reedy perches, showing off their long tails.   A Brown Shrike was spotted by Phil.   A Dark Reef Egret fed along the shoreline, disturbing a Blue Rock Thrush, but both merging well with the dark rocks along the shoreline.    Several Peregrine Falcon soared above us with Crested Serpent-eagle.  Taiwan Scimitar-babbler was our next find, and as we continued along a path 

through some trees, leaving all the human activity behind, we found a Tristram's Bunting - a delightfully smart bunting beautiful white stripes through its black head.   We were thrilled to find this migrant right by our side in the low bushes.

Taiwan appears to have an active birding population, often photographers rather than watchers, and we came across our first twitch of the trip along this path.   Around 20 photographers were pitched on a bend looking for Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher.   I got in with the pack as most of their lenses were pointing way up into the trees and I stood no chance of getting in the way of their lenses, and had excellent views.   A pair of Blue Monarch confused the issue a couple of times as they collected nesting material for their new home in a palm tree.

Tristram's Bunting

Nematodes were seen clinging onto the smooth rocks as we retraced our steps, back to the bus.   Soon we were off for our lunch, leaving the crowds behind.   We stopped at a roadside facility where a small banquet was brought out for us and spun around on a lazy Susan.   Dumpling soup, squid with grated cabbage and 

mayonnaise, king prawns, pork in gravy, duck, vegetables and two sweet dishes completed the feast.

Outside we scanned some small paddy fields and found Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Intermediate Egret, then Red-throated Pipit, Black-crowned Night-heron, and finally on a wire above us were Javan and Common Myna. 

Some local College grounds were the next stop and here we added Black-faced Bunting, Pale Thrush, Brambling - another familiar species, Black-winged/shouldered Kite were soaring overhead, Red Turtle-Dove completed our site list, and then it was back on the bus for a short drive to a depleted piece of wetland habitat which sadly now has road cutting it into small parcels, we made the most of it however, finding Greater Sand Plover and Kentish Plover in the distance, Dusky Thrush, Yellow Wagtail, Grey Wagtail and White Wagtail came thick and fast.   A Sacred Ibis flew overhead, Terek's Sandpiper was heard, then seen as it flew away from us.   A Golden-headed Cisticola perched high in a reed stem for us to see, looking handsome in the dull light of the day.   Purple Heron, Garganey, and Spot-billed Duck were all seen as they flew - the ducks finally settling for us to watch with the scopes.  

Great Knot

As we moved back towards the bus, a Common Kingfisher flew away from us, then John asked what the "knotty things" were in one of the paddies - they were Great Knot.   A group of four of them feeding in the shallow water.   Another group of birds caught our attention a little further away - they were Sharp-tailed Sandpiper - a species I had rather oddly only seen back in Kent, at Oare in August 2007.   These were far more distinctive in their breeding plumage - can't understand my identification issues all those years ago!!

A Pied harrier gave us a good show, then a Greater Painted Snipe appeared.   The male of this species looks after the young and the proud father had four chicks to look after.   There were also more Wood Sandpiper and Marsh Sandpiper.

So, finally, after a great first day in the paddy fields of Taiwan we were off back to the hotel for dinner, checklist and our instructions for tomorrow.

Spring Sprung . . . almost

At last a milder day.   So off to Grain for some migrants, yeh right!

Spring flowers

We found the usual suspects in bagfuls around the car park and along the top of the fort and moat.   No new songs could be heard.   The tide was rising and huge numbers of Curlew and Oystercatcher fed on the exposed mud.   We heard a Green Woodpecker "yaffling" on numerous occasions, and a Great Spotted Woodpecker drumming.   A Meditteranean Gull gave itself away with its distinctive call way before we could see it.

Around a mile along the coast we heard Chiffchaff and as we looked we found two birds flitting about in nearby brambles acting like flycatchers as they caught small insects in the air.   They were really acrobatic and a delight to watch.   When we turned round from watching the Chiffchaffs the tide had rolled in and all the mud had been covered.   From one of the ditches in front of us a Green Sandpiper flew off giving us a great view of its white rump.

As we followed this bird Malcolm shouted as another bird flew over - it was a Swallow!   Hurray, 11.20 am, on the 10th April - our first Swallow of the year . . . . we watched the bird as it swooped and rose flying off in a westerly direction, until it disappeared from view.   Brilliant, it made my day!

A Small Tortoiseshell Butterfly and a Bumblebee were also enjoying the rare spring sunshine - just to add to our enjoyment of the day.

Small Tortoiseshell

We found a couple of Purple Sandpipers which we found resting on a seaweed clad bar.   As the tide rolled in they flew off with three Turnstone.   We continued along the promenade and caught up with them again in a small area of salt marsh, they were so cryptic we struggled to make them out.   We kept our distance as their resting options were pretty slim given the high tide, and we did not want to cause them too much disturbance, so we retraced our steps and had a picnic lunch in the company of seven Blackbirds and a couple of Magpies.

In the afternoon we headed off towards Cliffe, then got caught up in road closures and dead ends, so finally decided to go to Allhallows.

Starling, Collared Dove and House Sparrow nest

As we parked the (rather muddy) car a large flock of House Sparrows were chirping away to each other in a small tree outside the pub.   We watched as they interacted, some were flying up to the eaves of the public house where a collared dove had a nest, they had utilised the side of the dove's nest to make one of their own.   On the telegraph wire a Starling was preening, the iridescent colours of its plumage where amazing in the sunlight, a real treat.   Next up (literally) were three Skylarks soaring high up and singing for all they were worth - it felt like spring really was finally here.

Here we had our find of the day, three Wheatear on the usual mound of rocks just by the path.   They were beautiful, perched up on top of the rocks looking warily around, again we stood back and enjoyed them from a safe distance, then continued along to the sea wall.

On our way back a couple of Little Egret flew past, and a man walking his dog told us he had disturbed "a large brown heron" in a nearby pond as he fed the mute swans - a bittern, we wondered?

Just back from walk with my local RSPB Group - in the first really warm and sunny day I can remember this year!   With Irene and Terry at the helm we were in for a great day out.

We started at Sevenoaks Wildlife Reserve where 20 of us gathered.   As we scanned the first lake a Treecreeper appeared right next to us, gave a few a quick view and then flew off.   We did catch up with another couple later in the day, so everyone had the chance to see them.

Bird Watching at Sevenoaks

On the lake there were many waterbirds, including the usual Cormorant, Mallard, Coot, Moorhen, Great-crested Grebe, Shelduck, Shoveler, Gadwall, Shelduck, Teal, and Lapwing.   Our attention was taken by a couple of Greylags who appeared to have a nest on one of the islands in front of the viewing mound.   A Canada Goose started to approach and the two species had an altercation which resulted in both the Greylags moving to the water and the Canada Goose settling itself on the nest which appeared to have eggs.    As we walked off we kept an eye on the nest and although the two Greylag came back out of the water and stood watching the nest (and almost guarding it) the Canada Goose remained incubating.   I've tried to find out if geese are known for nest sharing, but to no avail so far - anyone out there know the answer?

As we continued around the reserve Ian found a Little Ringed Plover on one of the islands in the middle of the lake, then Malcolm found a second.   When we tried to find them from a nearer viewpoint they had moved out of sight unfortunately.   There were some gulls, mainly Black-headed, but Common and Herring were also seen by some.

Bough Beech Reservoir

In the Woodland areas there were large numbers of Great Tit and Blue Tit, Chaffinch, Goldcrest, Dunnock, Long-tailed Tit, Magpie and the ubiquitous Wood Pigeon.   I could hear a Chiffchaff starting to sing, not the full version but enough to recognise.   As we all listened the perisher went quiet of course.   Chas found a Stock Dove on a nearby tree which we managed to get in the telescopes, and eventually we realised there were two, huddled closely together - a potential nest site?

By the open fields at the far end of the reserve there were more Stock Doves, a Green Woodpecker flew the whole width of the field right in front of some members of the group.   A Grey Heron was stalking in a flooded area of the field.   Whilst some watched two Snipe feeding in the marshy ground others watched three Common Buzzard circling overhead.

Back towards the Centre, Malcolm and I could hear a new call which he recognised as Redpoll.   Whilst we were looking for that we found a small group of Siskin - one splendid male with several females.   The rest of the group caught us up and everyone had great views of the Siskin - it was more of a challenge to find the one or two Redpoll, but I think most folk caught up with them eventually.

Our first Brimstone Butterfly was spotted here, and Sally managed to pursue it and get some good photographs.

The final stretch of the morning led us back towards the water with Pied Wagtail, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Egyptian Goose.   Irene and Terry suggested lunch in the garden here before we moved on to Bough Beech.

So, fed and watered, we started our afternoon walk at the Visitor Centre.   Jackdaw were feeding around the new hide, a Grey Heron and around 20 Shoveler were on the pool, along with Coot and Moorhen.

The feeder outside the hide was bringing Chaffinch in, and there were Mallard from the new viewing platform.   The main feeding station is opposite the car park, and once again Chaffinch were being attracted to the easy pickings.   Pheasants were enjoying any stray seeds dropped, House Sparrow, Great Tit, Blue Tit and an occasional Marsh Tit all delighted us.    Once again we saw three Buzzard soaring overhead - could they be the same three from this morning.   Neville (the man with the superior Telescope) noticed a white wing tag on one of the birds, which will be reported.

Primroses in bloom

From the Causeway we were amazed to see how much water was there, with no muddy edges to be found. Two Pied Wagtails were bobbing around in front of us on the concrete slipway.

Cormorants were on one of the few islands which had not been flooded out.   Tufted Duck, Shelduck, Pochard, Canada Geese, Great Crested Grebe, and the find of the afternoon - a couple of Redhead Goosanders.   We finished off the day with a stroll along one of the footpaths leading from the back of the visitor centre, there were a few clumps of primroses starting to bloom, which was a lovely bright sight on a sunny spring day.   Some of us also added Great Spotted Woodpecker, another Marsh Tit and a Redwing.   A Nuthatch called somewhere near the car park, but eluded us.

Penduline Passion

Just back from a great day out (albeit snow, grey, cold . . .  again!) at Stodmarsh NNR.   The walk through the woodland started really well with around 8 Blackbirds, a dozen or more Redwing, Great Tit, Blue Tit and Wren.    Sally found some flowering Coltsfoot - the first I have seen this year.

Further along, as Sally and I were getting close to a couple of Robin, Malcolm had found a Great Spotted Woodpecker.

Penduline Tit

Along the duck-boarding we came across the Penduline Tit which had been around for several weeks.   We had great views as it fed on the seeds of Reedmace, pulling seeds out and getting buffeted by the wind.   There were four other bird-watchers/photographers at the same spot, and as we stood back a Barn Owl came from behind us and swooped right over their heads.

We did discuss the photographic opportunity that an Owl taking a Penduline Tit from a Reedmace would make, but then decided that amazing as it would be - I'd probably miss it with the camera anyway!   We spent some time enjoying the Tit before the cold got the better of us and we had to move on.   We felt slightly warmer inside having enjoyed this encounter.

Robin

We had planned to head for the Marsh Hide, and as Malcolm wanted to check out some Willows for Galls, we strode out in that direction.   We were held up by a Treecreeper which perched for ages in front of us, it's brilliant white breast showing off beautifully against the mossy trunk.   With our warming layers we failed to get gloves, cameras and telescope aligned in time to get the definitive shot, but the memory was a great one.   Further along there were a couple of Redpolls feeding in the dead leaves.

We pushed on towards the hide and as we arrived some others were leaving with the news that there were several Water Pipits around.   "Lots of them but hard to see" were the instructions!   Scanning the pool we found Lapwing, Snipe, Greylag Geese, Mute Swan, Coot, Redshank, and finally the Water Pipit.   We found about four of them, and had reasonable views although they were a way off.   Another bird-watcher had arrived and was waxing lyrical about the pink hue on one of the birds.   Try as I might I did struggle to see it well.   There was a bit of a pinky tinge in certain light but then wishful thinking can be a great thing.   A flock of around 12 Dunlin flew in, they were very jumpy and refused to settle for very long, being moved off by Snipe and Lapwing.

Lesser Redpoll

With lunch over we were off again, this time to Seaton Pits.   This is a new site for me - I always seem to miss the local group outings there.   Again, it was cold, but the trees did give some shelter.    In the fields near the lane there were lots of Fieldfare and a few Redwing.   Wood Pigeons seem to be in high numbers everywhere.

On the pools there were around a dozen Gadwall, some Teal, large numbers of Black Headed Gull, three Common Gull and Wigeon.   On the way back we saw Wren, more Fieldfare and Sally spotted a Kestrel fly though which perched up in a tree.

Treecreeper

Here's hoping for some warmer weather next week!

Coming Home . . . .

The day you are travelling home, all you really want to do is be whisked off as painlessly as possible.   With only a three and a half hour flight, we didn't have to be up too early, so a breakfast around 7 am and leaving at 8 am was pure luxury.

Succulent plant

We took a steady drive from Agadir to Marrakech, stopping off for the usual coffee and tea (pain au chocolate thrown in as it was Darryl's birthday!) and one final bird watching walk.

It always seems amazing to me that you can stop at the side of the road anywhere abroad, and you will find some birds within minutes.   We found a clump of trees and off we were yomping through a dried out wadi yet again.  

Final Wadi-bash

Sardinian Warblers, Thekla and Crested Larks, another Moussier's Redstart, Northern Wheatear all delighted us yet again.   In addition there were more different plants to examine.

A final Tagine lunch in Marrakech and we were off to the airport for a speedy flight home - with a strong tail-wind we were home in three hours.

Overall impressions of the trip are hard to put into words, but suffice to say that without good company, good birds, and great organisation, no trip would be complete - this one had it all in bucketloads.    Thanks to all concerned - you were all excellent company, and I have learned a lot (mainly about birds!)

With over 5000 photographs taken - mainly due to the encouragement of my fellow papperazzi, there have been endless hours of pleasure an disappointment in equal measure, but hopefully with your generosity of spirit and patience I will retain some element of improvement!

Oued Massa and Tamri

Save the best 'til last they say, so here we were on our last full day in Morocco with the last "biggy" to see - Northern Bald Ibis.   The company I travelled with - Wise Birding - pledge to give a guaranteed percentage of the holiday price (per person) to conservation projects in the areas where they lead trips.   The Morocco donation is going to the SEO/Birdlife Northern Bald Ibis Conservation Programme.   Given that there are only believed to be around 100 breeding pairs it is one of the rarest birds in the world.   95% of the population is found in Morocco and even though I have seen Northern Bald Ibis as part of a reintroduction programme in Turkey, the prospect of seeing "real" birds was thrilling.    The main known threats for the species is the increase in the construction of hotels and vacation homes to the breeding and feeding areas as well as increased levels of disturbance. Therefore, improving knowledge on the species range and movements is essential for the survival of the species. The donation from our trip will go directly to help with GPS satellite tagging and wardening of sites to reduce disturbance.

Traditional commute

First, however, there was the little matter of some regular birding just to build up the tension.   We were off to the Massa River about an hour away from Agadir.   Here we were back in Spotless Starling country, along with House Sparrow, Common and Pallid Swift.

We stopped off outside a small village where a bridge crosses the river and gives an opportunity for Plain (Brown-throated) Martin.   The other hope for this site was Black-crowned Tchagra - another of Jaffa's "responds well to tape" birds!   In this case it worked, and we had reasonable views within minutes of our arrival.   I left the photography to more experienced hands, and enjoyed watching the bird.   The locals were starting to go off to work on donkeys and carts, a far more leisurely start than a queue on the M25!

Cormorants (of the sinensis sub-species) flew overhead, whilst a Stonechat perched high above the river.   Sedge Warbler and Common Whitethroat called from the reeds and a Common Sandpiper strutted around between the pebbles below us.   It was great to see all these migrants on the move!   Terrapins were coming to the surface for air and taking in the sun at the same time.   The river was full of life with many shoals of fish of varying sizes and species and several types of beetles skating and swimming.

Sardinian Warbler

On the way to the Estuary we found a Little Owl perched on a wall at the side of the track - it would have seemed churlish not to take a photo or two/three/four/more!   It was sooooo cute

At the Parc National de Souss Massa we had the opportunity to stroll along enjoying a wild area along the side of the river.   The path ran to the sea, and across the river we had great views of the surrounding countryside - ideal for Montagu's Harrier some thought.   More Tchagra, Sardinian Warbler, Chiffchaff, Tawny Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Moussier's Redstart, Blackbird, Zitting Cisticola and Linnet to name but a few.

Fish and Terrapin

I finally caught up with Cirl Bunting alongside the path, and Greenfinch were wheezing from nearby trees.   Along the river we found Grey Heron, Spoonbill, a Great White Egret, then a flying carrot - Caspian Tern - was found by the telescopers, and another new species for me, Audouin's Gull.   Yellow-legged Gull was joined by Lesser Black-backed, and a Sandwich Tern was spotted perched on a post in the river.   Out to see several Gannet were seen swooping over the sea.

Several sunbathers were enjoying the sand on the spit across the mouth of the estuary and a diligent warden shot off in pursuit of them, whistle blowing, to get them away from the resting gulls and terns.

The Cutest thing!

It may come as no surprise to know that we had not seen Andrew since we arrived - he was presumably in some state of euphoria, basking in the wealth of botanical riches around us.   It was really great to be in an unspoilt landscape where every step seemed to bring more diverse plant species.   With the plant species came more delights; several butterflies including Purple-shot Copper, Plain Tiger, and a Wall Brown.   A Crimson-speckled Footman moth was found resting on a leaf.   The Vagrant or Lesser Emperor Dragonfly was buzzing around us as well.

Having been over an hour late for lunch the last two days we had promised to be back on time today, and we were in fact early, so used the time wisely in some more bird and flower watching.  A Barbary Partridge strutted around in some nearby fields, as Andrew came to use the telescope to get his first sight he managed to put his foot on the only Iris he had seen on the trip - mortified is not the word for it!

Lunch was yet another delicious freshly made Berber Tagine with eggs.   Whilst we ate, I noticed a wasp (probably something akin to Sphecidae wasp - Ammophila spp, it was tending the nest which was down a hole in the ground.   Even around the well-walked car park there were more new plants and flowers to investigate.   A diverse and rich area which deserved more of our time.

Botanists heaven

Sadly not on this occasion, however, as we were now on a strict time-schedule to see the Ibis, and get in our daily dose of caffeine.   Just a couple of minutes out of the reserve and we stopped for some landscape photos, although it remained out of sight a Quail was heard calling several times.

We were off to Tamri - just as soon as we could drag Andrew away and into the car!

Through the outskirts of Agadir, and along the northern coast road, we stopped at a local cafe for tea and coffee, by now we were well versed in the tea ceremony and the tea was poured into the glasses from a great height - splashing everywhere, much to the Moroccans' amusement.   We continued on to a couple of well known spots for the Ibis, but they were not to be seen.   Our driver knew of one other site, further north, and Jaffa took the decision to go with it.   A brilliant choice, as once again Yousef proved his worth - the flock of Ibis were circling around as we drove onto the clifftop.   The birds continued to circle as we parked up and waited to see where they would land.   Frustratingly they couldn't seem to make up their minds, the rain started and that confused them more.   We waited and eventually our patience was rewarded as they landed in front of the cars.   Several hundred photographs later and we finally pulled ourselves away from these less than attractive birds on whom so much hope is pinned for the future survival of their species.

Northern Bald Ibis

Interestingly, one person was more interested in Plants!!!

Our final stop was to be on a local shore where we whiled away a couple of hours poking about in the dunes and along the edge of the beach.   More gulls, terns and a couple of Dunlin and Ringed Plover.  

Some tadpoles were swimming in a small puddle left by the tide.   As we explored further into the scrub area behind the dunes, the mozzies came out and forced us back into the breeze along the beach.   A Moroccan Wagtail bounced around between the clumps of grass, almost  on Andrews shoulder at one stage.

Soon it was time to go back to the hotel for our final evening, and plan the following day's itinerary for the return to a cold and wet UK, but not before we had all put forward our five highlights of the trip.

 A type of Hottentot Fig

Hard to come up with only five highlights, we seemed to have more than five every day!

Souss Valley and Agadir

After a great nights sleep in a brilliant hotel, it was another transfer day, this time continuing east towards the coast and Agadir.

First stop was just a few minutes away from the hotel at Mansour Reservoir where we had some water birding - great for getting some numbers on the list as we were a little light on ducks (amongst others!).   As we arrived a large flock of Trumpeter Finch flew ahead of us, an Osprey flew towards us carrying a huge fish - it looked just like a airship with its basket below it.

Ruddy Shelduck

White Storks were the most numerous birds by far, but to them were added Spoonbill, and then a raft of waterfowl including, Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Mallard, Pintail, Shoveler, Teal, Coot, Great-crested Grebe, Great Cormorant and then as the telescopees scanned along the edge of the water Jaffa called Marbled
Teal and I shot over to look at the pair of birds.   No sooner had I had a quick look than they seemed to disappear.   Comments about our ID and stringing were expected and received, however after several minutes of scanning and changing angle on the area where they were seen, our due diligence paid off and the pair were re-found - honour intact once more.

Argan Trees (where the oil comes from)

Waders were also seen here, a great area for lots more investigation.   Kentish Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Common and Spotted Redshank, and Common Greenshank were all duly listed.   A raptor shot across and there was much debate on Barbary or Peregrine Falcon, digiscoped photos were taken, books referred to.

A Marsh harrier quartered over the far side of the water, flushing the ducks and waders as it went.

As we left the reservoir to start on the drive to Agadir I got a glimpse of a small dark dove sitting on a wire, could it be a Laughing Dove at last?  Within seconds Darryl radioed from the second car to say they had a great view of the species on a wire, so after many broken promises from the Team Leader I finally had my first view for the trip.

Nightingale on migration

The journey continued; past roadside settlements with stalls selling ceramics, textiles and jewellery.   Mid-afternoon, amid much leg-pulling about coffee stops we pulled up at one such stop, with a vast array of wares.   Strangely, even though previous attempts to purchase had so far been a hagglers delight the
shop owner seemed in no mood to barter and all parties left empty-handed.

At the Souss Valley we were off in search of some water birds to add to our ever-growing list and hopefully Red-necked Nightjar, which is known to feed at night alongside the river outside the Kings Palace.   We were under strict orders not to look in the direction of the palace, gardens or the guards in case they became nervous.   Of course the moment you are asked not to do something it is the one thing you want to do most, and frustratingly a lot of the birds were flying overhead in that direction - Pete was determined to look come what may, and although there was a little 'guard action' with whistles being blown and them looking in our direction, they didn't make a real move.

Moussier's Redstart

As we wandered along, the mozzies came out in force and who needs guards to persuade you away when you are being bitten to pieces.   The boys were getting a little hysterical and in their words 'acting like girls' until a small pool came into view and then they managed to compose themselves and get back to business of bird watching.   There were many Black-necked Stilts, Cormorants, Dunlin, Snipe, a group of Marbled Teal flew over, Grey Heron, Cattle Egret and Little Egret were going onto roost, a group of Oystercatcher were settled on the far side of the river.   As we moved back towards the potential Nightjar area, the mozzies launched another assault and we were all dancing about as Zitting Cisticola bounced and buzzed around us, with more Sardinian Warbler, again showing themselves rather sparingly.

Jaffa and I heard a couple of notes of Nightjar call in response to his tape, and we jumped as a large moth shot past in the fading light.   Another call and we all had a Red-necked Nightjar in the beam of the well-handled torch - thanks Darryl.   It was showing beautifully, then just to complete our day, a second bird flew up and then both landed someway behind us.   We moved back and had both on the deck, for several seconds until they both flew again back safely in their domain.

Hard Core Birding at it's best!

We walked briskly back to the vehicles in the quickly fading light, trying not to break into a run as the mosquitos followed in our wake.   On the journey to our hotel in the centre of Agadir there was much swatting of errant insects.

Merzougha to Ouarzazre

Today we left the eastern part of our trip and moved to Ouarzazte this entailed a long drive punctuated by birding and coffee stops (surprise, surprise).  We saw Scrub Warbler, Thick-billed Lark and Seebomn's Wheatear- the latter a welcome surprise as we missed it earlier in the trip, and brought our trip Wheatear species total to 9.  

The journey was, as always a great opportunity for us to mull over important topical ornithological matters, the state of the nation, the quality of the coffee, the great diversity of the landscapes we were passing through, and best of all, putting our beloved leader under a tad of pressure on the bird list front!

Tamarisk and Broomrape

We continued on for several hours, stopping off for more tea and coffee and then a delicious lunch near a wadi.   As usual we all went off in search of birds whilst our two drivers prepared lunch for us.

As we wandered in a rather loose group, Darryl managed to almost step on an Egyptian Nightjar - it's amazing how cryptic they are - even close too!   It was great to see this bird flying in the daylight - a stark contrast to the night-time views we had a couple of nights ago.  It flew right over Andrew's head as he bowed down botanising, completely oblivious - he actually didn't believe us when we told him of his "dip".     We all moved stealthily towards the spot where the bird had settled but once again it moved off - this time across the wadi and into low cover, so we left it alone.  Migrating birds need all the safe rest they can get along the way.

Subalpine Warbler

Continuing down the wadi we came across a family of young Common Bulbuls all cuddled up on a branch, as we walked past they flew off and in fact revealed 8 individuals.   There was also a nest in the vacated tree, but whether it was their former nursery was hard to tell.   We found a whole host of asphodels at the next bend in the wadi and photos were taken.   The wandering continued until it was time to turn back.

The nightjar had settled itself in the lee of a thorny bush alongside the wadi.   We stood back and watched it for some time, marvelling at how well it was camouflaged against the sandy ground.   It was perfectly still and at ease, not moving a muscle.   As we snapped photos this amazing bird did a great rock impression - a fantastic experience!

The desert creates a
natural bonsai tree!

Eventually, an hour late, we arrived back at the 4x4s for a rather late lunch.  After apologising to our two hosts/drivers we tucked in to another delicious lunch  This time it was a lovely Berber tagine of vegetables and eggs.   With fresh bread and the usual finely chopped salad and olives it was lovely- and ideal for the heat of the day.

We continued our journey through the Anti-Atlas with dramatic scenery all around us.   The constantly changing landscapes will be one of my lasting memories of the trip and an experience which I had not considered when contemplating the trip.

Our hotel was great, with a modern twist on traditional Moroccan, a shame we only had one night here, but thoroughly enjoyable, and a great location for our first stop tomorrow.