Waldenoors - without the Rain!

Green-headed Tanager

So, the last day of our trip, and just time to try one of my favourite trails again.  This time with beautifully clear skies.

Adilei decided that we deserved a good leg-stretch before some took the flight home and set off on the most arduous trail we had done so far.   We had lots of birds to catch up on and he did his best to make sure that we got the most out of our last opportunity.

On the drive to the start of the trail we saw Swallow Tanager, Kiskidee, Cattle Egret, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (the last of the girls’ wish list requirements) and Limpkin.   Saffron finch were flying ahead of the vehicle, Roadside Hawk, Sayaca Tanager, Blue-and-White Swallow and Campo Flicker all saluted us as we drove through Matumbo towards the start of the trail.

Three White-eared Puffbirds

Scaly-headed Parrots flew over once again, and then perched in a nearby tree (at last), a good omen for the rest of the walk?   Lesser Woodcreeper, Star-throated Antwren, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner, Ochre-belled Flycatcher, Violet-crowned Wood-nymph, Blue Manakin, all catch-ups or resightings of new friends for our intrepid team.   A distant Bellbird called, then a second, and when we played the tape one of the birds moved, but not anywhere near enough to keep trying.   We’ll have to save that for another trip.

Rufous-capped Motmot finally gave in and presented itself to us in fine fashion, on a cross branch right ahead of us.   Great views for all, and very much appreciated.   Channel-billed Toucan perched on a far hillside, much nearer, Olive-green Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Tanager, Plain Parakeet and Violaceous Euphonia were seen.

Grey-rumped Swift filled the sky, and with the larger White-collared they made a great picture as they soared and whirled around us.

Avocado munched by a possum

After a rather challenging walk, we arrived at a small clearing where we had great views of  Chestnut-crowned Becard, White-bearded Manakin,  Saw-billed Hermit, Green-headed Tanager [the name of this species still causing confusion to some!], Blue-naped Chlorophonia and Azure-shouldered Tanager.   Salvadori’s Antwren was the bird of the day with great views for everyone.   Adilei’s skill in reading the bird and getting the team just where he thinks they will get the best view is fantastic.   Streak-capped Antwren took our attention for a short while, but only until Claire spotted a mammal in the trees above us, a Coati trying to climb up to some bananas, as we watched another Coati appeared, great views!

Neotropic Neck

Back to avian delights and Rufous-bellied Thrush greeted us on the second half of our loop, White-eared Puffbird, Guira Cuckoo and Whistling Heron completed the trip list.

So the end to the first part of my trip and unfortunately time for the rest of the group to go home.

Thanks must go to the REGUA team as a whole, but especially to Leonardo and Adilei who helped us to see so many species in our two weeks.

Sunset over those amazing mountains

Coffee Plantation and BBQ Lunch

Coffee bushes stretching high up the hillsides

Today we had some guests of Pura Coffee with us and they were visiting a local Coffee Plantation, we were kindly invited to join them.   As this gave us an excellent opportunity to see the other side of the story of the deforestation of the area we were keen to go along. 

Beyond Nova Friburgo, the journey took about two hours, but when we arrived our host was delightful and offered restrooms and conversation.   The views of the terraced coffee fields was amazing, with the plantation stretching as far up the hills as it was possible to farm.  The beans were arabica and deemed to be the best quality for the general market – a mid strength general purpose bean.

Coffee Beans

We were taken in the 4x4 to the top of the plantation were we got an overview of the whole project and also so that we could see the areas of reforestation which had taken place as part of Brazil’s mitigation legislation – all farmers now have to replant native trees in a percentage of their land.

Masked Water Tyrant

After viewing the fields full of coffee beans in varying stages of ripeness, we went off to the drying area where the beans are laid out in the sun to dry for a few days, they have to be constantly moved to ensure even drying and to prevent any moisture getting caught between them which would cause funghi and moulds to grow.

The final process here is for a final drying inside a drum which revolves whilst hot air is blown through it.   The furnaces which provide the hot air are fuelled by the dried husks from the outside of the coffee beans – nothing is wasted here.  The beans are turned in the drums constantly – the barn is hot, noisy and dusty.  

The first part of the drying process

There were two elderly gentlemen who manned the site 24 hours a day whilst the crop is being harvested 

– we visited on Sunday and they hadn’t slept for a week.   They were delightful in their generosity perhaps just thrilled to have other people taking an interest in their work and providing a distraction to a very arduous job.

After a bit of birding – Masked Water-Tyrant, Saffron Finch, Southern Rough-winged Swallow and the usual Vultures being out main sightings - it was time for lunch, Nicholas took us to a typically Brazilian BBQ restaurant where the food just keeps on coming – the two young visitors took it all in their stride, the rest of us (already having had two weeks of lovely REGUA food) were not quite as capable of keeping up..

Choices, choices

Soon it was time to return to the Reserve, we just had time for a quick cup of tea on the veranda and then it was time for some evening birding.   Tonight we were going to try to the Giant Snipe.   We had seen four birds fly past on a previous occasion, but we wanted one last chance to see a bird on the ground before the group departed.  

Our guide, the excellent Adilei led us once again to a field with cattle at the far end.   They became curious and started to walk in our direction.   After a while they formed an arc around us and just stared us out.   The playing of Giant Snipe tape almost proved too much for them, but they managed to hold off from a full charge and just nudged and jostled each other before becoming bored and wandering off - thank goodness.   Unfortunately all this activity was likely to have scared off the snipe.

Mmmm, pistachio pudding, yum, yum

We patiently waited as our guide played the tape.   An eerie sound at the best of times but with darkness falling and the stars starting to glisten, the sounds of a brazilian evening were fantastic.   First one bird responded, then a second, third and fourth.   We had one bird fly over our heads, then a second, how on earth Adilei managed to work out where these birds were was amazing, but finally he had located one on the ground and moving stealthily forward he motioned for us to join him.   As one we moved forward as quietly as we could, trying not to stumble on the tussocks of grass and in the deep ridges in the field.   All this with only one faint torch, everyone was incredibly nimble. 

I never fail to be astounded by the skill and expertise used by our two Brazilian guides and tonight was no exception.   The bird was perfectly pinpointed in a shaft of light, as we watched - no binoculars required as it was so close - and took photographs quietly we were all in awe of the great privilege before us.   Being that close to such a great bird was fantastic.   Nothing was said, hardly a breathe was taken.   I decided to start taking some video, and right on cue the bird moved off, giving me some lovely footage.   Finally it moved off into the long grass some way off and we decided to leave it in peace.   What a great experience.

Sadly that wasn't the end of our experiences for the day, as Ken took rather an interesting nose-dive into a ditch and ended up with two boots full of stagnant water - still, it could have been worse - it could have been me!

Giant Snipe Video

The Wetland

Watching Southern Antpipit

Today we were to be based at the reserve, the Wetland is an area which provides a rich and varied wildlife and we had not spent as much time there as we would have liked so far, our days being curtailed by the weather.   So a day meandering around the local trails was called for.  

Pauline and Claire had been doing their homework, and called for three serious omissions to be found – Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture and Moustached Wren.   Can't believe that we have got so far into our trip without getting everyone on to these three, but that's the way birdwatching goes sometimes - more effort required!

As we gathered in the garden we found Purple-throated and Violaceous Euphonia, Brazilian Tanager, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Violet-crowned Wood-nymph, Swallowtail Hummingbird and some White-tufted Marmosets enjoying the fruit and sugar water provided.

Black-cheeked Gnateater

White woodpecker called as we started down the drive, and four birds flew over the path towards the wetland area.   By the volunteer accommodation we found Bananaquit, Yellow-chinned spinetail, Picazuro Pigeon, Saffron Finch, Tropical Kingbird, White-barred Piculet, Common Gallinule, Purple Gallinule, Wattled Jacana, Yellow-lored Tody-flycatcher, a pair of delightful Blue Ground Dove, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Brazilian Teal, Striated Heron, Ringed Kingfisher, Amazon Kingfisher, noisy Scaly-headed parrots flew overhead.  Fly-pasts appear to be the order of the day for Parrots and the like this year - oh for a perched group so that everyone can actually see the birds.

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl coming towards us

We skirted around the wetland with the edge of 

the forest to one side, Planalto Tyrannulet, Creamy-bellied Thrush, and the first of the wish list, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet.   Congratulations to Adilei for getting that one out of the way early on.   Wing-banded Hornero strutted around on the edge of the small islands, Yellow-headed Caracara perched high up on the tree tops, a Roadside Hawk called before appearing over the nearby hillside.   On the older part of this bit of wetland, Muscovy Duck, Great Egret, Least Grebe, Capped Heron and over 50 White-faced Whistling-duck were seen.

Hamadryas amphione amphione butterfly;

We decided to add the Brown Trail and then the Canopy Hide Loop to our walk, in this mixed 

habitat circuit we hoped to maximise our chances 

of some additions to our trip list.   In the first section of forest which skirts around the wetland we found; Chestnut-vented Conebill, White-winged Becard, Yellow-backed Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Short-crested Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Sayaca Tanager, Social Flycatcher, White-bellied Seedeater (luckily a male or we would have been struggling with an id), Kiskidee, Streaked Xenops, Rufous-headed Tanager, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Sorretama Slaty-Antshrike, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher (the only one spotted this year so far).

Female Chestnut-vented Conebill

Grey-fronted dove was flushed and spotted by the front couple of people, the rest had to make do with the call echoing around us.   Southern Antpipit called from its usual spot where the Brown Trail and the Canopy Loop join, as always it responded well to tape and put on a good show.   Euler’s Flycatcher and Chestnut-Backed Antshrike were next to visit us, with Flame-crested Tanager, Unicoloured Antwren and Long-billed Wren calling for attention.  

As we neared the hide a Boat-billed Flycatcher was calling above us.   Although things were relatively quiet, we did spot a three-toed sloth from the hide and the Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl was still perched high up in a nearby tree almost in the same spot as the last time we paid a visit.   Black-capped Foliage-Gleaner, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner and Rufous-winged Antwren  kept our attention from waivering as we started our return part of the loop.   As we came down the final part of the descent we heard the unmistakeable sound of Shrike-like Cotinga.   Out came the ipod, and within minutes this enigmatic bird which has had such important links to the Reserve over the years was in view.  Rather shaky photographs from me, but hopefully some better ones from the more able photographers amongst us.

View from the Garden

We picked up the Brown Trail, and continued towards the wetland, a Moustached Wren called, again as with so many of these neotropical birds it responded and came in at the first request with everyone seeing it well, enabling us to leave it to get on with its day with the minimum of disturbance.

More tanagers as we returned, with Golden-chevroned, Green-headed (which had magically turned into Blue-headed by the time we got back to the lodge - more Claire-isms), Brazilian and Ruby-crowned, Green-winged Saltator, Yellow-browed Tyrant and Blue-winged Parrotlet completed the walk's list.

So two more off our wish list seen, if the weather continues to hold we are on for a great final couple of days.

Serra dos Orgaos

Buoyed with new-found confidence that the weather will remain fine we decided that another offsite trip is due so the National Park near Teresopolis is today’s venue.

Leaving at 6.30 am we have time to stop at a local service area where there are great views across the valleys towards Rio and the Finger of God rock can also be seen well.   I also needed to hunt for some hawkmoths, attracted to the lights which are left on at night here, and acquire some wine for our farewell dinner in a couple of days.   Leonardo, today’s guide also met us here.

Handsome Blue Manakin

We arrived at the National Park around 8.20 am, and were parked up and ready to go at the official opening time of 8.30.   The main walk is along a wooden raised boardwalk, which gives great views of the canopy at eye level on one side but still with the under-storey on the other.   Today was relatively quiet for the year, but we still managed to see some excellent species, including: White-throated Spadebill, Black-goggled Tanager, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, lekking Blue Manakin, Golden-chevroned Tanager, Scaled Antshrike, Rough-legged Tyrannulet, Brazilian Ruby, Pin-tailed Manakin, Yellow-legged Thrush, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Blue Dacnis, Versicoloured Emerald, Large-headed Flatbill, Blue-billed Black-tyrant, Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-throated Trogon.  The bird of the day was Sharpbill, we had excellent views of the bird just ahead of us over the trail, and the more proficient of us got great photographs – I got one rather dodgy effort.

We took our picnic lunch in the car park area where there are restrooms and seats, then walked down the driveway with the minibus following at regular intervals.

Sharpbill

Here it was quieter, perhaps the heat of the day having its usual effect, but we did see: Grey-capped Tyrannulet, Crested Oropendola, Black-throated Trogon, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Scale-throated Hermit, Yellow-Olive Flycatcher, Yellow-eared Woodpecker, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Streaked Antwren, Planalto Woodcreeper, Golden-crowned Warbler, and Rufous-capped Greenlet.   Vying with the Sharpbill was a rather speedy view of Red-capped or Pileated Parrots –only those next to Leonardo stood any chance of seeing them as they darted overhead.

Teresopolis and Tres Picos NP

As the area seemed quiet, Leonardo decided to take us to another area near Teresopolis, which had previously been his local patch.   Here in more open country overlooking a beautiful valley we added some excellent birds.   A White-tailed Hawk circled overhead giving us some brilliant views, several hundred photographs were taken and we were quite pleased with our efforts until Leonardo showed us some he had taken the previous day – they were superb – the delete button was used on more than one camera – thank goodness for digital!

Cliff Flycatchers perched high on bare branches flying out to catch insects, White Woodpecker called and then flew in to the tape.   Blue-and-White Swallow hunted over the  . . . . . . .

[Sorry, as I write this a Rufous-breasted Hermit just flew into the sitting room, took a long hard look at me and the laptop then shot out again!]

. . . . . . valley

Variable Antshrike was next, Cinnamon Tanager, Ruddy Ground Dove and Chalk-browed Mockingbird completed our day’s sightings.   Hooded Siskin called nearby, responded to tape but decided to stay where they were – out of sight.

Chalk-browed Mockingbird

An excellent day, just what Brazilian birding is all about.

The 4x4 Trail

Today we were spending back on the REGUA reserve.   Some had a guided walk on the 4x4 Trail, Pauline decided to take Raquel up on her offer of a botany walk and John went with Jorge to hunt for butterflies.

A gang of Guira Cuckoo

Nicholas drove the walkers up to the far end of the 4x4 track near Casa Anibals, and within moments we heard Spot-billed Toucanet.   It took some persistence, but eventually Adilei tracked the bird down in the canopy of a nearby tree.   A Blue-manakin lek was our next diversion.   We carefully pushed through the undergrowth to get nearer to the action, but it was too dense to get good views and we were mindful not to disturb these delightful birds, so eventually after enjoying listening to their display sounds we took our leave.   Red-crowned Ant-tanager were noisily heading up a flock in a nearby tree, with Yellow-eared Woodpecker, Black-throated Trogon, Green-headed Tanager and Bananaquit all spotted.   Scaly-headed parrots shot overhead – their shrill call giving the only clue of their whereabouts. 

As Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl entered into a conversation with our Guide, Tropical Parula, Olivaceous Woodcreeper and Chestnut-bellied Euphonia all reacted to the sound.   Plain Parakeet were next to join in, calling as they landed in the top of a nearby tree, just within view if you were prepared to crane your neck enough.   Slaty-bristlefront was heard but carried on through.

Black-throated Trogon

At the banana stand where the view opens up the usual Long-tailed Tyrants were using the tree tops as perches for feeding sallies.   Black and Turkey Vulture circled overhead, gaining height as the thermals developed with the gradual warming of the day.

Moving back into the forest Unicoloured Antwren, Ochre-breasted Flycatcher, Streaked Xenops, Yellow-eared Woodpecker and Rufous-headed Tanager were our next sightings.   Red-rumped Cacique chattered in a tree nearby and disturbed a Squirrel Cuckoo – amazingly difficult to see for such a large bird.   Flame-crested Tanager maintained our tanager numbers and Blonde-crested Woodpecker (one of the most distinctive and delightful birds) flew around us just long enough to ensure everyone noticed how handsome it was.

Scaled Antbird was our next distraction, closely followed by the next flock, comprising Yellow-backed Tanager, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Tropical Pewee, Rufous-browned Peppershrike and Spot-breasted Antvireo,   A Black Hawk-Eagle soared above the forest, visible in the gaps between the canopies.   Guianan Squirrel was our mammal sighting for the day.

Three-toed Sloth

As we descended, Yellow-legged Thrush, Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Black-goggled Tanager, were seen and Rufous-winged Antwren and Greyish Mourner were heard.   White-bearded Manakin were lekking nearby.   A juvenile male Blue Manakin caused us some identification queries until Adelei stepped in to correct our spurious claims of a new species to science.

By now we were at the base of the hillside, and were walking through what was pasture land until a couple of years ago.   Amazingly the newly planted trees are towering above us, providing much needed shade from the heat of the day.   Although we have now lost Yellowish Pipit and other pasture loving species from this area, yet another vital piece of the forest jigsaw has been put in place, providing a corridor for species to flourish in the future.   The pasture lovers are moving into new areas nearby – we just have to look a little harder for them.

We re-grouped back at the lodge for a late lunch with everyone keen to share their stories of the day.

And the weather finally held for us.

Pico Caledonia

Today’s trip was out to an area beyond Nova Friburgo which gives us some high level  birding.    We drove up to the top of the roadway and the first birds we saw were Shear-tailed Grey-Tyrant, Cinnamon Tanager, Cliff Flycatcher and a very obliging Pallid Spinetail.   As we watched the Spinetail a Brazilian Ruby shot past, almost immediately two Diademed Tanager appeared.   The Tanagers put a great show on even though they kept disappearing into the mist.   

Pallid Spinetail

Plovercrest fed on blossom  Bay-chested Warbling-finch called but refused to show.   Serra do Mar Tyrannulet was our next sighting along with Rufous Gnateater, then two species called but stayed deep in the undergrowth Rufous-backed Antvireo and Rufous-tailed Antbird.

Yellow-browed woodpecker tapped on a nearby tree trunk and a Blue-billed Black-tyrant sat up watching us.   In the distance Grey-winged and Black-and-gold Cotinga whistled, Star-throated Hermit and White-throated Hummingbird called.   The hummingbird later gave us a lovely view as it sat high on a bare branch.

Rufous-tailed Antbird, Rufous-crowned Greenlet and Ochre-faced Tody-flycatcher were followed by Plumbeous Pigeon which allowed some great photographs to be taken.   Rufous-browned Peppershrike, White-rimmed Warbler with its great song, and Yellow-eared Woodpecker came in close succession.

After a quick stop for lunch we were off to the lower trail where Highland Elaenia, Planalto Tyrannulet, Large-tailed Antshrike, Variable Antshrike and Glittering-bellied Emerald followed in quick succession.   Rufous-capped Spinetail called but once again refused to be seen.  

Plumbeous Pigeon

More Shear-tailed Grey-tyrant showed well from the top of a nearby tree displaying their long slender tails as they flew.   Our final flurry of activity was a bromeliad-laden tree full of birds, Hepatic Tanager showed low down in good light, Scaled Woodcreeper kept to the shaded areas of the branches, Golden-crowned Warbler,  Blue Dacnis, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin, Rufous-capped Spinetail and a female Black-and-Gold Cotinga.   What a way to end our walk.

Hepatic Tanager

On the way back to collect the minibus light rain started to fall so we donned our already well worn wet weather gear.   Claire had been asking about the “three foot high jobs” – Red-legged Seriema, and we were entering the area where they had been seen on previous visits.   Just as I mentioned that she should start looking, two birds appeared on the hillside next to the track.   We stopped and had great views, aided by our driver who had their call on his mobile phone.   Chaos ensued as the birds raced towards the sound and their noisy cacophony surrounded us – how on earth can the field guide describe this as “calm series of . . . “ our experience tells us different.   Two fields on a further pair were perched on fence posts – quite odd to see such a large bird in that position.

As we made our way back to REGUA in the bus the sound of Seriema travelled with us as several of us had video which had caught the experience all to well.   Our driver thought we were absolutely “loco”.

Finally, we make the Waterfall Trail . . .

The Waterfall at REGUA

Having visited REGUA six times before, I have never taken quite so long to get to the Waterfall, a favourite trail for most visitors it is usually the first full day’s birding on the reserve.   With the weather looking a little more settled today, we are keeping fingers crossed that Day 8 could be the day!   With picnics packed we climbed into the by-now familiar blue 4x4 truck to get to the start of our walk.

On the way we saw the American Kestrel perched on a wire over the pasture, and Burrowing Owl, one perched on a fence post and the other keeping watch from the top of a smooth boulder.   A flock of Saffron Finch flew into a tree near the track.   Once we had dismounted from the 4X4 vehicle  and started our walk, within minutes we had a Rufous-capped Antthrush which strutted out onto the path in front of us and gave a great show.   Crescent-chested Puffbird posed on a branch nearby.   A bank on the side of the track had several holes in it which were the nests of puffbirds, foliage-gleaner, and motmot.   Thrush-like Woodcreeper, Lesser Woodcreeper, Black-goggled Tanager, White Shouldered Fire-eye gave fleeting views.   A Rufous-breasted Leaftosser flitted low in the undergrowth and eventually gave itself up.  

We crossed the clearing and as we descended back into the forest we saw the grasses moving beside the track.   We stood quietly and waited, a small nose and face appeared, looked at us and then promptly retreated, this was a “land otter” or Tayra, (Eira Barbara)  a forest dwelling mammal  which lives near rivers and is often kept by Brazilian indigenous people as they prey on rodents.   A very efficient biological controller.

Blue Manakin

We continued into the forest and within minutes a Saw-billed Hermit shot past us, a large flock of Yellow-Olive Flycatchers, and Red-Crowned Ant-Tanager fed in the canopy of a nearby tree.   A group of Golden-tailed Parrotlets flew over giving their call, but not stopping in their journey.    Then we were into a number of skulking birds with Streak-capped Antwren, Star-throated Antwren, Plain Antvireo, and Eye-ringed Tody-tyrant proving an interesting challenge.   Olive-green Tanagers were far more forthcoming, as was Sulphur rumped Flycatcher (renamed “Shuffle-rumped” by Claire).   As we neared the waterfall a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner appeared ahead.

As we had taken 8 days to get here we decided to take lunch at the waterfall (it was only 11.30 am but we were all delighted to have finally beaten the weather).   As we watched a White-thighed Swallow swooped overhead, after a while it started to circle low over the pool drinking on the wing – a delightful sight.   A Surucua Trogon appeared and gave excellent views in a nearby tree, even moving into a better-lit position for the photographers when asked! 

A flock of Flame-crested Tanager and Chestnut-crowned Becard fed in a nearby canopy, chattering as they went.   A distinctive call rang out and when I asked Leonardo what it was he confirmed it as Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper – I put up my bins and there was the bird right in front of us.  Everyone had great views and several photographs were taken.

Butterfly

Soon it was time to make the return journey, but our next birds were Black-capped Foliage-gleaner, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, White-flanked Antwren and Streaked Xenops.   The highlight of the day however came around the 1350m point, in the form of Shrike-like Cotinga a bird for which the reserve is famous, and one that eluded me for five years initially.  I have now had increasingly good views over the last three years, and this one topped the lot!   The male perched in front of us, above us and then moved from branch to branch, but always where it could be seen.   A couple of the group got good pictures, even though the light was poor in the forest.

The day’s final treats for us were Greyish Mourner, Crescent-chested Puffbird and Flame-crested Tanager.

So, at last we had achieved what had started to seem impossible, we got to the Waterfall!   

Long may the good weather hold.

Theodora's Trail and Cedae Trail, Macae de Cima

We were hopeful that the rain had now gone, and decided that we had to go off-site for some higher altitude birding.   We left in the mini-bus with Alcenir our driver in charge.   As we approached Guapi Assu we spotted a hawk (either Mantled or White-necked) in the top of a tree with Yellow-headed Caracara either side.   After about an hour, the mobile phone rang and it was our guide to find out where we were, he had missed us at the lodge and arranged a rendezvous with the driver.   We hopped from the bus and did a bit of birding by the side of the road, Southern Lapwing were within feet of us and Feral Pigeons flew around the petrol station over the road.   

Sunrise over REGUA

Within minutes Leonardo had caught up with us and we were all on our way.   As is our habit, we called at the Banana Stop on the main road to Nova Friburgo.   Here the owner of a small stall at the side of the road puts out bananas for the birds to eat and attracts lots of passing birdwatchers, to add to the main customer base of drivers stopping for a quick coffee or snack.   Today Blue-naped Chlorophonia were in high numbers, Green Honeycreeper shared their spoils.   Ruby-crowned Tanager was a little shyer, as was Chestnut-bellied Euphonia.   Scaly-headed parrot flew overhead in a noisy squawking group.   A Violet-crowned Woodnymph flitted around the heliconia flowers. 

Blue-naped Chlorophonia

Soon it was time to move on and within a few minutes we were at the start of this new trail.   It follows a line of an old railway, and the path is metalled, but after all the recent rain we were effectively walking along a small stream.   The birds went quiet for a while, but then a Uniform Finch popped up on the trail just ahead of us, it fed from one side to the other for some time before disappearing into the undergrowth – everyone had great views.   A Star-throated Antwren called but refused to move, unlike White-collared Foliage-gleaner which came close.   Plain Antvireo, Golden-crowned Warbler and Black-goggled Tanager followed a Brassy-breasted Tanager flock feeding in the canopy of nearby trees, they gave a great view.   A Female Pin-tailed Manakin buzzed around us and a White-tipped Dove flew off the track.   The delightfully named Eared Pygmy-Tyrant was our next addition, closely followed by Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet and Oustalet’s Tyrannulet – an excellent spot by Leonardo.   Olivaceous Woodcreeper and Lesser Woodcreeper fed on nearby trees, Blue Manakin lekked just beyond the first bank of trees, but occasionally gave good views.    A Yellow-legged Thrush stayed on a branch just long enough for two to see it then disappeared for good into the tangles of leaves and branches.   Grey-hooded flycatcher showed very well, closely followed by Grey-capped Tyrannulet and Black-Throated Grosbeak.   A male Pintail Manakin gave stunning views as it bounced from branch to branch, delighting all of us with its black, white and red plumage.

Wild Strawberries - lovely!

We finally returned to the bus for our picnic lunch and a bit of sun worshipping before we moved to another new trail just a little below the first on an old private road.    White-throated Spadebill was our first afternoon bird, with Red-necked Tanager looking superb with the sun glinting on their mantles.   Blue Dacnis, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Plain Parakeet and Saw-billed Hermit all joined the day’s tally.   Plain Xenops called but refused to show well.

Suddenly we noticed that the clouds were gathering and decided to beat a hasty retreat.   Not a moment too soon as the inevitable occurred and we got caught in a downpour.   Luckily we were soon back in the shelter of the bus and Alcenir drove us back to the Lodge in good time, so that we could take tea on the verandah and discuss our luck in avoiding the bad weather.

The Brown Trail and Canopy Loop

Finally we woke to no precipitation.  Cloudy skies but no rain.   We rather hesitantly prepared ourselves for a walk along the Brown Trail to the Canopy Tower Loop, not daring to tempt fate too much.

The new Canopy Hide

Within minutes of leaving the Lodge we were watching White-flanked Antwren.    Rufous-tailed Jacamar showed well and Cocoi Heron flew overhead.   In the small wetland we found Common Gallinule and Purple Gallinule, a group of Brazilian Teal were hiding a single female Masked Duck.   Lemon-chested Greenlet called from a nearby tree and Smooth-billed Ani were perched among the long grasses and reeds.   A flock of around 12 White-faced Whistling duck flew over to the main water area, and Great Egret and Least Grebe gave us a huge disparity in size to consider.

Long-billed Wren called and responded immediately to our guide’s whistle.   Masked Water-tyrant, White-headed Marsh-tyrant and Southern Lapwing gave us great views and allowed us to hone our memories for these neotropic bird names.  

Beautiful Berries

As we moved into the more wooded part of the trail we had Grey-hooded Attila immediately in front of us, Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike was our next addition.   Fuscous Flycatcher was heard and after a few whistles from Adilei came to the front of the canopy above us – a bit of neotropic neck at last!   Blue and White Swallow dipped and soared feeding above the water.   Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Southern Antpipit, Unicoloured Antwren, Grey-fronted Dove, White-Eyed Foliage-Gleaner, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Flame-crested Tanager, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Black-goggled Tanager and Chestnut-Backed Antshrike, Euler’s Flycatcher – the birds came thick and fast. 

The view from the Canopy Hide

At the new Canopy Tower, we climbed up the spiral staircase to gain an overview of the valley beyond the wetland and the lodge.   Although it was quiet a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl did respond to our guide’s whistling and after a little searching in the forest nearby we found the delightful bird sitting high up in a nearby tree.   This soon became known as a “Fusticated” version – a well known sub-species invented by Claire, who is fast gaining a reputation as an inventive namer of species.

Not surprising after all that rain!

Our next batch of birds were a little slower in showing themselves as the heat of the day wore on, but we still managed an impressive number with the main sightings being: Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Chestnut-headed Tanager,  Rufous-winged Antwren, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner, Thrush-like Woodcreeper, Lesser Woodcreeper and a very quick flypast of Shrike-like Cotinga.   Motmot bubbled some distance away but did not respond or come near.

Finally we had to return to the lodge for lunch, and as we dined, surprise, surprise the rain fell again.   Nothing left to do but relax – funny how quickly you fall into that pattern when the opportunity presents itself.

Rio Botanical Gardens - Oh yes, in the Rain!

Today we ventured to Rio in search of drier weather - if we were thwarted then at least we had some different scenery, and it gave us a new venue to get a soaking!

Cocooned in our ponchos

We travelled for a couple of hours to the Botanical Gardens and although we passed through some drier weather by the time we arrived it was absolutely bucketing down (again!).   We had arranged to meet Nicholas, Raquel, Michaela and Robert at the gate, and soon after we arrived Nicholas came bounding towards us, cap in place and with his usual effervescent personality brightening our day.

We decamped from the bus for coffee and restrooms, although I was pretty much soaked before I even got to the door!   After a lengthy catch up and introductions to new friends we decided to make a break for the shop – for some much-needed bigger brollies – and when we arrived they were selling plastic ponchos for R$7, so we bought 8.   I have to say that once you were ensconced it felt like being encased in some giant cocoon, but it was dry and warm and we were all buoyed up with our new purchases.

Inside the Orchid House

We started off our tour with the native trees and then the Gunpowder fort – the whole reason for the gardens' creation in the 1800’s.  The town needed an area to be kept as a buffer zone in case any of gunpowder explosions, so the gardens were railed off and left.   Until a few years ago the whole area was overgrown, but it is great to see it coming back to former glories and it provides a safe haven for both people and wildlife in a busy, noisy city.

The spectacular fountain

We pretty much had the place to ourselves, unsurprisingly!   We splashed through the orchid and bromeliad houses and then chased after some Rusty Margined Guan, Slaty-throated Wood-rails, Channel-billed Toucan and the occasional marmoset.   As we continued around the garden we marvelled at the lovely plants and flowers, and could recognise some from our walks in the forest.

We ended our visit with a walk down the Avenue of Palms and then raced back to the bus and shelter.

Within minutes we arrived at a restaurant just off the Cococabana beach where we enjoyed steak, chips, salsa and manioc.

After lunch we took a walk along the edge of the bay to a fort where you can walk out towards the sea with waves crashing in.   It was bracing with Brown Boobies, Brown-hooded Gull, South American Tern, Cabot Tern and feral pigeons flying around.   We stood the wind and spray as long as possible, having a fit of hysterics before we took our leave from the Locke Family and returned to the peace and tranquillity of Regua.   Sadly it was still raining!!

Copacabana in the rain

Will it ever stop??

Rain, Rain and more Rain . .

Today we should have been going to attempt the Waterfall Trail, but as it rained all night and was still throwing it down over breakfast we decided to take an easy morning and relax.     Neotropic birding is such a trial!

Roadside Hawk

We did some birding in the garden through the showers, and saw Social Flycatcher, Bananaquit, Yellow-headed Caracara, and Claire spotted a White-rumped Swallow.   Violet-capped Woodnymph and Rufous-breasted Hermit fed on the sugar water when the Swallow-tailed would let them.   A Reddish Hermit buzzed around the heliconia flowers on the far side of the garden.

Around 10.00 am the rains stopped and some of us wandered to the wetland whilst others took the main driveway to the nursery and then down the road towards Guapi Assu.   After a detour to see the Canonball tree,  we stopped to see the Tropical Screech Owls – only one roosting this morning.

On the wires two Southern Rough-winged Swallow perched.   In one of the mature trees laden with bromeliads, lichen and mosses Red-rumped Cacique cackled, Chalk-browned Mockingbird preened, Saffron Finch and Brazilian Tanager fed.

In the nursery we saw several butterflies, one like our Tortoiseshell, and a small yellow butterfly with black edges to the wings.   Several 88 butterflies were around, one in particular liked Jim’s camera, glasses and hat!

A slightly worn but beautiful butterfly

Masked Water-tyrant and House Wren were seen by some.   A Roadside Hawk sat high up on an arching bamboo stem.   As we moved along into the more open countryside, cattle grazed in the long grass and Smooth-billed Ani perched on the fence posts.   Blue-and-white Swallow swooped over the distant reeds.   A White-browed Blackbird hid in the top of the long grass some way off.

As was becoming a well worn habit this year, the rain started when we were at our furthest from the lodge so, with lunch calling, we returned to the lodge.   Marmosets came down to the bananas on the bird tables, and the only birds still braving the weather were the Swallowtails.   Claire created a new species, a Vibrating Euphonia – probably the highlight of the day.

A caterpillar in the nursery

As the rains continued to fall we began to wonder about this dry season in Brazil, when would it end?   How far would we have to go to avoid it?   Questions, questions.

Maybe tomorrow we would have some answers . . . .

Waldenoor's Trail

After our soaking of yesterday we decided to try a trail in the opposite direction in the hope that the rains wouldn’t follow us.

Once again the 4X4 truck was our transport.   As we passed through Matumbo Village and moved into the open countryside a Burrowing Owl was spotted on a branch next to the track.   As the photographers snapped away, we noticed a second bird further back which was well camouflaged against the bark.

Burrowing Owl

Three White-eared Puffbird were sitting on a telegraph wire nearby, a group of Saffron Finch gathered further away.   Blue-black Grassquit bobbed about in the long grass on the bank of the track.

Yellow Butterfly

Once we started our walk, Surucua Trogon was our first sighting, and we eventually had three birds flying around us giving excellent views.   Green-headed Tanager, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Boat-billed Flycatcher and Plain Parakeet all appeared.   Crescent-chested Puffbird sat beautifully for us in a rather dark spot, then 

appeared to oblige further by moving into a great 

spot with the dark leaves behind it showing off the plumage to perfection.   A Squirrel Cuckoo perched in a tree to the side of the trail.   White-eyed Parakeet flew overhead, and Streaked Xenops showed itself briefly to some.   A Tropical Pewee caught flies from a nearby perch.   Unicoloured Antwren shot past us, whilst Ochre-bellied Flycatcher gave lengthier views.   Green-headed Tanager, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Violaceous Euphonia, Golden-crowned Warbler and Yellow-Olive Flycatcher arrived in a mixed flock.   A Saw-billed Hermit buzzed around several times but gave the scantiest of views.

An order had been put in for woodpeckers and our first of the trip was a Yellow-throated Woodpecker, closely followed by Yellow-fronted and later by Yellow-eared – with the REGUA guides you only have to ask . . .

Frog

Grayish Mourner, Black-capped Becard, Red-crowned Ant-tanager and Thrush-like Woodcreeper were next, as we continued to the higher part of the track.   In the clearing near the top of the trail Green-backed Becard, Cliff Flycatcher and Bananaquit were seen.   Two Ferruginous Pygmy Owls responded to Adilei’s call.   Streak-capped Antwren showed briefly, a pair of Grey-rumped Swift flew overhead.   Rufous-bellied Thrush was our final addition on this part of the trail.

Birding in the Rain

As rain fell yet again we descended back to the village.   Limpkin perched in a tree looking suspiciously like a branch, and proving hard to spot initially.   Laughing Falcon and Cocoi Heron shared a tree nearby.     As we watched Yellow-headed Caracara in the field,  John spotted a couple of caracara on the ground and gave directions to them via a nearby cow, however as the four-legged beast was a horse, endless ribbing begain which continued for the rest of the trip, creating much mirth!

After lunch and for the rest of the day the rain fell persistently, so we had no option but to relax at the lodge and catch up on our birdlists and a few Zzzzzzzzzz’s – it’s a hard life!