Coming Home . . . .

The day you are travelling home, all you really want to do is be whisked off as painlessly as possible.   With only a three and a half hour flight, we didn't have to be up too early, so a breakfast around 7 am and leaving at 8 am was pure luxury.

Succulent plant

We took a steady drive from Agadir to Marrakech, stopping off for the usual coffee and tea (pain au chocolate thrown in as it was Darryl's birthday!) and one final bird watching walk.

It always seems amazing to me that you can stop at the side of the road anywhere abroad, and you will find some birds within minutes.   We found a clump of trees and off we were yomping through a dried out wadi yet again.  

Final Wadi-bash

Sardinian Warblers, Thekla and Crested Larks, another Moussier's Redstart, Northern Wheatear all delighted us yet again.   In addition there were more different plants to examine.

A final Tagine lunch in Marrakech and we were off to the airport for a speedy flight home - with a strong tail-wind we were home in three hours.

Overall impressions of the trip are hard to put into words, but suffice to say that without good company, good birds, and great organisation, no trip would be complete - this one had it all in bucketloads.    Thanks to all concerned - you were all excellent company, and I have learned a lot (mainly about birds!)

With over 5000 photographs taken - mainly due to the encouragement of my fellow papperazzi, there have been endless hours of pleasure an disappointment in equal measure, but hopefully with your generosity of spirit and patience I will retain some element of improvement!

Oued Massa and Tamri

Save the best 'til last they say, so here we were on our last full day in Morocco with the last "biggy" to see - Northern Bald Ibis.   The company I travelled with - Wise Birding - pledge to give a guaranteed percentage of the holiday price (per person) to conservation projects in the areas where they lead trips.   The Morocco donation is going to the SEO/Birdlife Northern Bald Ibis Conservation Programme.   Given that there are only believed to be around 100 breeding pairs it is one of the rarest birds in the world.   95% of the population is found in Morocco and even though I have seen Northern Bald Ibis as part of a reintroduction programme in Turkey, the prospect of seeing "real" birds was thrilling.    The main known threats for the species is the increase in the construction of hotels and vacation homes to the breeding and feeding areas as well as increased levels of disturbance. Therefore, improving knowledge on the species range and movements is essential for the survival of the species. The donation from our trip will go directly to help with GPS satellite tagging and wardening of sites to reduce disturbance.

Traditional commute

First, however, there was the little matter of some regular birding just to build up the tension.   We were off to the Massa River about an hour away from Agadir.   Here we were back in Spotless Starling country, along with House Sparrow, Common and Pallid Swift.

We stopped off outside a small village where a bridge crosses the river and gives an opportunity for Plain (Brown-throated) Martin.   The other hope for this site was Black-crowned Tchagra - another of Jaffa's "responds well to tape" birds!   In this case it worked, and we had reasonable views within minutes of our arrival.   I left the photography to more experienced hands, and enjoyed watching the bird.   The locals were starting to go off to work on donkeys and carts, a far more leisurely start than a queue on the M25!

Cormorants (of the sinensis sub-species) flew overhead, whilst a Stonechat perched high above the river.   Sedge Warbler and Common Whitethroat called from the reeds and a Common Sandpiper strutted around between the pebbles below us.   It was great to see all these migrants on the move!   Terrapins were coming to the surface for air and taking in the sun at the same time.   The river was full of life with many shoals of fish of varying sizes and species and several types of beetles skating and swimming.

Sardinian Warbler

On the way to the Estuary we found a Little Owl perched on a wall at the side of the track - it would have seemed churlish not to take a photo or two/three/four/more!   It was sooooo cute

At the Parc National de Souss Massa we had the opportunity to stroll along enjoying a wild area along the side of the river.   The path ran to the sea, and across the river we had great views of the surrounding countryside - ideal for Montagu's Harrier some thought.   More Tchagra, Sardinian Warbler, Chiffchaff, Tawny Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Moussier's Redstart, Blackbird, Zitting Cisticola and Linnet to name but a few.

Fish and Terrapin

I finally caught up with Cirl Bunting alongside the path, and Greenfinch were wheezing from nearby trees.   Along the river we found Grey Heron, Spoonbill, a Great White Egret, then a flying carrot - Caspian Tern - was found by the telescopers, and another new species for me, Audouin's Gull.   Yellow-legged Gull was joined by Lesser Black-backed, and a Sandwich Tern was spotted perched on a post in the river.   Out to see several Gannet were seen swooping over the sea.

Several sunbathers were enjoying the sand on the spit across the mouth of the estuary and a diligent warden shot off in pursuit of them, whistle blowing, to get them away from the resting gulls and terns.

The Cutest thing!

It may come as no surprise to know that we had not seen Andrew since we arrived - he was presumably in some state of euphoria, basking in the wealth of botanical riches around us.   It was really great to be in an unspoilt landscape where every step seemed to bring more diverse plant species.   With the plant species came more delights; several butterflies including Purple-shot Copper, Plain Tiger, and a Wall Brown.   A Crimson-speckled Footman moth was found resting on a leaf.   The Vagrant or Lesser Emperor Dragonfly was buzzing around us as well.

Having been over an hour late for lunch the last two days we had promised to be back on time today, and we were in fact early, so used the time wisely in some more bird and flower watching.  A Barbary Partridge strutted around in some nearby fields, as Andrew came to use the telescope to get his first sight he managed to put his foot on the only Iris he had seen on the trip - mortified is not the word for it!

Lunch was yet another delicious freshly made Berber Tagine with eggs.   Whilst we ate, I noticed a wasp (probably something akin to Sphecidae wasp - Ammophila spp, it was tending the nest which was down a hole in the ground.   Even around the well-walked car park there were more new plants and flowers to investigate.   A diverse and rich area which deserved more of our time.

Botanists heaven

Sadly not on this occasion, however, as we were now on a strict time-schedule to see the Ibis, and get in our daily dose of caffeine.   Just a couple of minutes out of the reserve and we stopped for some landscape photos, although it remained out of sight a Quail was heard calling several times.

We were off to Tamri - just as soon as we could drag Andrew away and into the car!

Through the outskirts of Agadir, and along the northern coast road, we stopped at a local cafe for tea and coffee, by now we were well versed in the tea ceremony and the tea was poured into the glasses from a great height - splashing everywhere, much to the Moroccans' amusement.   We continued on to a couple of well known spots for the Ibis, but they were not to be seen.   Our driver knew of one other site, further north, and Jaffa took the decision to go with it.   A brilliant choice, as once again Yousef proved his worth - the flock of Ibis were circling around as we drove onto the clifftop.   The birds continued to circle as we parked up and waited to see where they would land.   Frustratingly they couldn't seem to make up their minds, the rain started and that confused them more.   We waited and eventually our patience was rewarded as they landed in front of the cars.   Several hundred photographs later and we finally pulled ourselves away from these less than attractive birds on whom so much hope is pinned for the future survival of their species.

Northern Bald Ibis

Interestingly, one person was more interested in Plants!!!

Our final stop was to be on a local shore where we whiled away a couple of hours poking about in the dunes and along the edge of the beach.   More gulls, terns and a couple of Dunlin and Ringed Plover.  

Some tadpoles were swimming in a small puddle left by the tide.   As we explored further into the scrub area behind the dunes, the mozzies came out and forced us back into the breeze along the beach.   A Moroccan Wagtail bounced around between the clumps of grass, almost  on Andrews shoulder at one stage.

Soon it was time to go back to the hotel for our final evening, and plan the following day's itinerary for the return to a cold and wet UK, but not before we had all put forward our five highlights of the trip.

 A type of Hottentot Fig

Hard to come up with only five highlights, we seemed to have more than five every day!

Souss Valley and Agadir

After a great nights sleep in a brilliant hotel, it was another transfer day, this time continuing east towards the coast and Agadir.

First stop was just a few minutes away from the hotel at Mansour Reservoir where we had some water birding - great for getting some numbers on the list as we were a little light on ducks (amongst others!).   As we arrived a large flock of Trumpeter Finch flew ahead of us, an Osprey flew towards us carrying a huge fish - it looked just like a airship with its basket below it.

Ruddy Shelduck

White Storks were the most numerous birds by far, but to them were added Spoonbill, and then a raft of waterfowl including, Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Mallard, Pintail, Shoveler, Teal, Coot, Great-crested Grebe, Great Cormorant and then as the telescopees scanned along the edge of the water Jaffa called Marbled
Teal and I shot over to look at the pair of birds.   No sooner had I had a quick look than they seemed to disappear.   Comments about our ID and stringing were expected and received, however after several minutes of scanning and changing angle on the area where they were seen, our due diligence paid off and the pair were re-found - honour intact once more.

Argan Trees (where the oil comes from)

Waders were also seen here, a great area for lots more investigation.   Kentish Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Common and Spotted Redshank, and Common Greenshank were all duly listed.   A raptor shot across and there was much debate on Barbary or Peregrine Falcon, digiscoped photos were taken, books referred to.

A Marsh harrier quartered over the far side of the water, flushing the ducks and waders as it went.

As we left the reservoir to start on the drive to Agadir I got a glimpse of a small dark dove sitting on a wire, could it be a Laughing Dove at last?  Within seconds Darryl radioed from the second car to say they had a great view of the species on a wire, so after many broken promises from the Team Leader I finally had my first view for the trip.

Nightingale on migration

The journey continued; past roadside settlements with stalls selling ceramics, textiles and jewellery.   Mid-afternoon, amid much leg-pulling about coffee stops we pulled up at one such stop, with a vast array of wares.   Strangely, even though previous attempts to purchase had so far been a hagglers delight the
shop owner seemed in no mood to barter and all parties left empty-handed.

At the Souss Valley we were off in search of some water birds to add to our ever-growing list and hopefully Red-necked Nightjar, which is known to feed at night alongside the river outside the Kings Palace.   We were under strict orders not to look in the direction of the palace, gardens or the guards in case they became nervous.   Of course the moment you are asked not to do something it is the one thing you want to do most, and frustratingly a lot of the birds were flying overhead in that direction - Pete was determined to look come what may, and although there was a little 'guard action' with whistles being blown and them looking in our direction, they didn't make a real move.

Moussier's Redstart

As we wandered along, the mozzies came out in force and who needs guards to persuade you away when you are being bitten to pieces.   The boys were getting a little hysterical and in their words 'acting like girls' until a small pool came into view and then they managed to compose themselves and get back to business of bird watching.   There were many Black-necked Stilts, Cormorants, Dunlin, Snipe, a group of Marbled Teal flew over, Grey Heron, Cattle Egret and Little Egret were going onto roost, a group of Oystercatcher were settled on the far side of the river.   As we moved back towards the potential Nightjar area, the mozzies launched another assault and we were all dancing about as Zitting Cisticola bounced and buzzed around us, with more Sardinian Warbler, again showing themselves rather sparingly.

Jaffa and I heard a couple of notes of Nightjar call in response to his tape, and we jumped as a large moth shot past in the fading light.   Another call and we all had a Red-necked Nightjar in the beam of the well-handled torch - thanks Darryl.   It was showing beautifully, then just to complete our day, a second bird flew up and then both landed someway behind us.   We moved back and had both on the deck, for several seconds until they both flew again back safely in their domain.

Hard Core Birding at it's best!

We walked briskly back to the vehicles in the quickly fading light, trying not to break into a run as the mosquitos followed in our wake.   On the journey to our hotel in the centre of Agadir there was much swatting of errant insects.

Merzougha to Ouarzazre

Today we left the eastern part of our trip and moved to Ouarzazte this entailed a long drive punctuated by birding and coffee stops (surprise, surprise).  We saw Scrub Warbler, Thick-billed Lark and Seebomn's Wheatear- the latter a welcome surprise as we missed it earlier in the trip, and brought our trip Wheatear species total to 9.  

The journey was, as always a great opportunity for us to mull over important topical ornithological matters, the state of the nation, the quality of the coffee, the great diversity of the landscapes we were passing through, and best of all, putting our beloved leader under a tad of pressure on the bird list front!

Tamarisk and Broomrape

We continued on for several hours, stopping off for more tea and coffee and then a delicious lunch near a wadi.   As usual we all went off in search of birds whilst our two drivers prepared lunch for us.

As we wandered in a rather loose group, Darryl managed to almost step on an Egyptian Nightjar - it's amazing how cryptic they are - even close too!   It was great to see this bird flying in the daylight - a stark contrast to the night-time views we had a couple of nights ago.  It flew right over Andrew's head as he bowed down botanising, completely oblivious - he actually didn't believe us when we told him of his "dip".     We all moved stealthily towards the spot where the bird had settled but once again it moved off - this time across the wadi and into low cover, so we left it alone.  Migrating birds need all the safe rest they can get along the way.

Subalpine Warbler

Continuing down the wadi we came across a family of young Common Bulbuls all cuddled up on a branch, as we walked past they flew off and in fact revealed 8 individuals.   There was also a nest in the vacated tree, but whether it was their former nursery was hard to tell.   We found a whole host of asphodels at the next bend in the wadi and photos were taken.   The wandering continued until it was time to turn back.

The nightjar had settled itself in the lee of a thorny bush alongside the wadi.   We stood back and watched it for some time, marvelling at how well it was camouflaged against the sandy ground.   It was perfectly still and at ease, not moving a muscle.   As we snapped photos this amazing bird did a great rock impression - a fantastic experience!

The desert creates a
natural bonsai tree!

Eventually, an hour late, we arrived back at the 4x4s for a rather late lunch.  After apologising to our two hosts/drivers we tucked in to another delicious lunch  This time it was a lovely Berber tagine of vegetables and eggs.   With fresh bread and the usual finely chopped salad and olives it was lovely- and ideal for the heat of the day.

We continued our journey through the Anti-Atlas with dramatic scenery all around us.   The constantly changing landscapes will be one of my lasting memories of the trip and an experience which I had not considered when contemplating the trip.

Our hotel was great, with a modern twist on traditional Moroccan, a shame we only had one night here, but thoroughly enjoyable, and a great location for our first stop tomorrow.

Erg Chebbi - The Land Behind the Dunes

Today we were off into the desert proper with a drive through the sand dunes.   First however we were going back to the Kemkemia Bivouac to look for Desert Warbler and Sparrow.   The warbler showed within minutes of our arrival, and proved to be just as skittish as the previous day, hiding within the low-growing scrubby plants then popping up to show itself for a couple of seconds then disappearing again as quickly as it appeared.   After about 20 minutes we gave up and walked back to camp to look for the sparrows.   These were harder to find than the previous day but were still there, the male guarding a potential nest site in one of the outbuildings, the female lurking in an area of more open gravel and sand pecking around for tasty morsels.

Patterns in the sand

Next stop was for Fulvous Babbler, a species which had been totally unresponsive yesterday.  Another Nomad, another species, we were getting withdrawal symptoms having not met a Nomad for several hours. Our site this morning was much better however with our driver pointing out two birds sitting up high on a date palm tree just a few feet from the cars.   As Jaffa played the tape they showed well and then continued about their business in the vicinity, enjoying themselves feeding amongst the crops and flying around in the trees in noisy sociable groups - typical babblers!   Long-billed Lark also made an appearance here.

Once we had sated ourselves we were off looking for Houbara Bustard.   The group had mixed feelings as the birds here are introduced by Arab sheiks keen to hunt them, to are not really countable as a wild sighting, but it would be good to see them in their natural habitat whatever.

Desert Warbler

All this driving was frustrating Andrew the Botanist, who was appeased by a couple of leg-stretching breaks where we wandered around taking landscape shots - within seconds Andrew had disappeared, lying prone with his nose pressed against a flower, camera in hand and another species recorded for his pleasure.   We had soon learned that if you want to find him, look in the vegetation!

Hoopoe Lark were calling their distinctive whistle and we saw a few displaying.   Desert Lark and Bar-tailed Lark were also flying around us in large numbers.   We found Spotted Sandgrouse as our first new bird - with Andrew calling them - a rather obliging group which allowed us to get very close in the car.    Next were Crowned Sandgrouse, this time called by Lee.   They were equally obliging, and if you haven't tried to find these birds before you will not appreciate how ridiculous it was, we could almost have reached out and touched them.   Our skilful drivers were keen to ensure we had the best possible experience, without any stress or interference to the birds.

The Bustard continued to elude us, and we took the opportunity to stroll around looking at lizards, crickets and flowers, as well as making full use of the exercise out of the car.  

Our shady lunch stop

Soon it was time for lunch with shade a priority at the oasis of Begaa.  As on previous days we went bird watching whilst our drivers prepared lunch.   We wandered through some tamarisk where there were lots of Subalpine Warblers coming through.   A Bonelli's Warbler and several Common Redstart completed our migration list for this site - we arrived at the cars which had been parked under a nearby tree just as lunch was ready.

Today it was a lamb meatball and egg tagine, prepared Berber-style.   Served with the usual mixed salad and fresh bread, it was delicious.   Bananas and oranges were our dessert.

Unfortunately only two of us took advantage of the freshly brewed tea as Andrew once again found us a bird - a Martin which we initially thought was Crag Martin but on closer inspection appeared to be more like Rock Martin with a paler plumage, a more steely blue rather than the warm darkness usually encountered.   Many photographs were taken of these birds and it will be interesting to see what the verdict from the "experts" is.

Crowned Sandgrouse (male)

We returned to the hotel for a two-hour break before moving off out again for a late afternoon visit to the lake were we stopped a couple of days ago.   Here we had the usual entourage of nomads selling goodies, this time Pete was joined by Lee who took a fancy to a couple of pieces of fossil filled rock.   Much banter ensued, ending with a rather silly moment which will mean nothing in the telling, suffice it to say that Lee made an inappropriate comment which ex-teacher Andrew told him would have got him detention at  school!  We started to laugh and ended up having "a bit of a moment"!   The hysteria continued later in the evening when we did a night drive into the desert (more of which later)

We did managed to do some birdwatching even with all that laughter, and I added Little Stint, Common Redshank for my trip list.

Lizard

We were off on a night drive into the desert.
All started well, with our moving from the lake to a local roadside cafe.   Yes, I know it seems as if we did a lot of stopping and drinking on this trip, but we were in the field for around 12 hours every day, and there were two coffee-addicts in my vehicle.   Anyway, after we had stocked up on biscuits and sweets we were off into the fading light. . . .  For the drive of a lifetime!

How our drivers had any clue where we were absolutely flummoxed us - the moon stayed on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and that is a much as I can say!   We continued driving for some considerable time, the majority of it off-road, down tracks of previous visitors' tyres in the sand.   Occasionally we had the delight of a drop down a rather steep gradient - not ideal for those with back problems, but we coped.   A hare appeared in our headlights and the driver was off in pursuit - then commenced the most ridiculous couple of minutes of the whole trip where the car and hare were in harmony almost dancing through the desert - the hare was far more agile and shot off into the scrub while we dissolved into gales of laughter, tears teeming down our faces and totally unable to speak for some considerable time.   Our driver added to the hysteria by commenting about a possible hare tagine picnic the next day!!

The Land Behind the Dunes

On a serious note, we did see a small shrew-like mammal and two Egyptian Nightjars, which was brilliant.

easy -!).

Desert Sparrow Day!

We were looking for Desert Sparrow this morning and concentrated around the local auberges where there are nesting holes and camels - we are led to believe that they like camel dung!   I did find a Hoopoe, and there were some White-crowned Black Wheatear, Subalpine Warbler, and many House Sparrows, but none of the Desert variety.

Morning light in the desert

We went off to another site via the infamous Cafe Yasmina.  This is a well known birding site, where ringing is sometimes carried out.   During the wetter season there's a small lake nearby (totally dry now unfortunately) and a great area of tamarisk and scrubby habitat which was great for a bit of migration investigation.   Here were warblers aplenty, with Sardinian, Westerm Bonnelli's, Cetti's, Chiffchaff, Woodchat Shrike and  Common Redstart.   One of the House Sparrows was completely black - most intriguing.   We set off in different directions taking tracks through the scrub and just enjoying some 'real birding'.   The thrill was seeing our migrating birds on their long way north and realising just how amazing their perilous journey is.  

Brilliant creatures!

Our driver had spoken to a nearby Nomad who was said to have the sparrows near his bivouac, so we took a short drive to his camp.   As we approached, a small light warbler appeared - a Desert Warbler!   At this point I realised that the bird I had glimpsed at the rubbish tip yesterday was probably this species, acting in exactly the same way, keeping to the base of the small shrubs, and only showing itself when absolutely necessary.   The pale colouring was exactly what I saw, so not a cricket after all!    We raced off through the sand dunes to track the bird down again.   As we scanned, a pair of Desert Sparrow turned up, so after all that effort we were rewarded.   After enjoying them for a few minutes we decided to try for the warbler and then return to the bivouac later for the sparrows which were more likely to stay around.  

Woodchat Shrike

As for the warbler, it called its beautiful song, but generally it remained in the dried up stalks of the dune grasses and gave us very scanty views, before flying off into the distance.   As the heat was building up - by now it was around 9.10 am - we moved back to the camp for some shade and enjoyed trying to photograph the sparrows from a nearby tree.

We were invited into the tent for tea, which, as always, was delightfully

refreshing.   A White-crowned Black Wheatear perched on top of a jeep outside, with a huge camel tick in its bill.   It appeared to be showing off its great prize by finding the most obvious perch, then singing away to draw attention to itself.   We had a great time watching it.   It did elicit an outbreak of itching as we thought about the prospect of those large ticks though!

White-crowned Black Wheatear
with Camel Tick!

By now it was time to meet our second Nomad of the day, this time for Egyptian Nightjar.   Off we drove across the sand, along almost invisible tracks which seemed to meander rather haphazardly through the desert.  We were greeted with yet another tray of tea, this time accompanied by the most delicious salted nuts - what a great way to say hello!  

After several minutes, we were driven just a few hundred yards away from the camp and there sheltering under small bushes to get some relief from the increasingly hot sun were not just one, but two Nightjars.   We bunched together and slowly approached a short distance towards the birds who appeared to be completely oblivious to our presence.   We were quietly enjoying them, taking photos and studying them through bins and scopes, and we spent a considerable time in almost complete silence until a Lanner falcon flew overhead, and even then we were so aware not to disturb that Lee didn't even realise the falcon was overhead.   Eventually we moved off to our lunch stop by the River Ziz, buoyed by our surreal experiences.

Tamarisk Gall

Whilst the drivers prepared our picnic we went for a stroll along the river where we had more warblers, including Subalpine, African Desert, Western Bonelli's and more of our familiar Chiffchaff.   We also had at least two Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters fly by, calling as they went.   I also found a tamarisk gall, which is apparently formed when gall-wasp eggs are deposited on tree branches. The nutlike gall grows until the larvae are completely enveloped. The mature insect bores a hole through the gall in order to escape.

Chiffchaff

Lunch was Moroccan beef burgers which are actually a type of bread which is

stuffed with spicy meat and vegetables and then sliced 'pizza like', fresh

bread and salad followed by oranges and bananas.

After lunch we were off to meet yet another well connected Nomad, (a great day for Nomads!) this time to be introduced to Spotted Sandgrouse.   Again, the locals had their facts right as within minutes we were watching around 60 of the birds as they fed in the rough ground of small bushes and sandy ground.   Once more we savoured the birds and spent much time enjoying them.

A second wander around the river area didn't add much more for the trip, but kept our day list going.   Soon, with the sun starting to set, we were off to the hotel for tea in the garden and dinner.

Egyptian Nighjar

A great day, completed by a rather interesting night drive in the desert.   We were driven round and round in circles, bumping up and down sand dunes, losing our orientation completely.   In the midst of all of this we ended up in a race with a desert hare, the racing hare had far more agility than the Toyota and he left us in a hysterical heap, unable to speak or function for several minutes, with the other vehicle unaware of the delirium at the other end of the radio.

Off to the Desert . . . .

Today was set to be a long day in the vehicles as we moved further east from the stony-desert Hamada to the sandy desert proper.   We set off (as usual) at 6.30 am, and headed for the hills.   We wanted to find Maghreb Wheatear - a close relation of Mourning Wheatear.    We stopped at a village nearby and a local quarry worker said he could take us to the site, so we set off to another part of the quarry.

Western Mourning/Maghreb Wheatear

When we got there he was actually pointing out a Black Wheatear, but the good news was that this diversion did eventually triumph.   As we moved off there was a call from the second vehicle that the bird had been sighted by sharp-eyed Darryl.   So we turned round and rejoined the rest of the group.  As we wandered back to the area we had just been in a pair of Maghreb Wheatear were feeding and perching around the large boulders in the side of the quarry.   We had great views and eventually had to tear ourselves away.   A third bird was spotted as we moved off.  

We travelled through hillside mining towns and several gorges including The Secret Gorge and the Todra Gorge.

We hoped to catch up with Tristram's Warbler, in this area, a stunning bird in the Sylvia genus.   As our vehicles stopped in the gorge a small bird flew away from us and up the scree slope.   Little did I realise at the time that that would be the best view I would have!

Despite seven pairs of diligent eyes scanning the area, we only had very scanty views and Andrew took to pointing out some excellent botanical species which kept our spirits up.

Todra Gorge

The inevitable tea stop was due (all this of course to allow the drivers to arrange the catering for the next few days), and whilst we enjoyed a shady cafe garden we had a pair of Bonelli's Eagle displaying above us.   Cetti's Warbler was singing and coming into a nearby tree - giving great views.   A pair of Blue Rock Thrush appeared to be hunting for a nest site on the steep cliffs above us.   African Blue Tit and House Bunting were feeding nearby.   The tea was great too!

With around 6 hours driving to do we could delay no longer, and we set off for the long haul over to the desert.   As we travelled along, through varying landscapes where the boulders changed to large stones, pebbles and then sand the further east we travelled.

Lunch today was in a very hot but breezy stop at a Nomad camp in the desert.   The area has wells for drawing water from aquifers below the desert, and a great set up with a "Relaxation Tent" which can be used by passing travellers.

Although it was hot, we were keen to have a leg-stretch in the desert, so set off for a river bed some few hundred yards away.   The heat from the sun was searing, although an increasingly breezy wind was helping to stop us completely overheating.   The river bed was completely dry, but a couple of camels were finding some shoots to munch, on nearby trees.   They look so great in their natural environment - so haughty and smug.   Presumably they know that they belong there and we do not!

House Bunting

Lunch was taken in the tent, with a great Berber Tagine - vegetables, meat and eggs baked into a light omelette-style lunch, with lots of lovely fresh bread and salad.

Back on the road, and the wind was getting stronger.   As we continued it was obvious that we were heading into a sandstorm - amazing to watch and be part of, but we were concerned about our birding opportunities being threatened.

A stop by the River Ziz - where Jaffa took us through a building site brought Little Grebe and Grey Heron to the list, and gave the local builders some entertainment.   Here we also spotted a Moroccan Wagtail on the far side of the river.

After some time we went off the main track and headed off into the dust!   We had been told that there was a lake nearby which should add some waterbirds to our trip list.   Lee, Andrew and I were totally disbelieving and ribbed Jaffa relentlessly as we bounced along on the sandy tracks with mile after mile of sand stretched out around us when the storm abated enough for us to see.

We halted by a rubbish tips - we birdwatchers go to all the best places - to watch Brown-necked Ravens.   I noticed a small pale bird, possibly a warbler, land at the base of a nearby shrub.   It promptly disappeared!

Lunch in the "Relaxation Tent"

More driving through the sandstorm finally brought us to the Dayet Sjri Salt Lake.   A host of water birds were seen through the exfoliating sand blast, including:
Ruddy Shelduck, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Grey Heron, Greater Flamingo, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Kentish Plover, Common Greenshank, Gull-billed Tern.  

Jaffa, are we on the Tagdilt Track?

All day on the Tagdilt Track(s), birding heaven.  This was my favourite day of the whole trip.   Mainly because we had just a great day of birding, but also because the landscape was superb with the stony desert Hamada around us.   The whole thing start out with great views of an owl, always a treat to see any owl, especially one in such amazing surroundings.  

Pharaoh Eagle-Owl

So, our first stop of the morning was for Pharaoh Eagle-Owl, and we were successful within minutes of reaching the site.   After enjoying watching for some time and marvelling at the difference in size to the Eurasian Eagle-owl, we were off to another nearby site for some more Hamada specialists.   Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew up ahead of us, and then more joined them until we had seen around 30 of them.   Some were quite close until we tried for photographs and then they shot away at speed.   A couple of skylarks were found after much persistence by Lee.

Hamada Landscape

Temminck's Horned Lark, Thekla Lark, Red-rumped Wheatear (a catch-up for me from the previous day), Woodchat Shrike, Northern Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, Crested Lark, Long-legged Buzzard and to our great delight Hoopoe-lark with its distinctive bill.   Then Hassan the driver of the other vehicle found Cream-coloured Courser, and we all had great views of this beautiful species.

Soon it was time to head off for a coffee stop (hard-core birding at its best!) in the outskirts of town so that our drivers could go for fresh bread and other lunch supplies, and we could sample more of the local tea.   At this roadside cafe we found White Wagtail, House Bunting, House Sparrow and Common Kestrel, Common Swift and Pallid Swift overhead.   This gave us chance to compare the two swift species at close quarters.

The scenery today was fantastic, more dramatic than I could have imagined, with snow topped mountains behind the Hamada landscape which showed off in the bright light to perfection.    Some distant birds flew away from us showing a lot of white, they were not Hoopoe-larks so our supposition was Thick-billed Lark, another speciality of this area.   We set off in hot pursuit across the bumpy ground, up and down the wadis in the general direction the birds had flown.   It was not to be on this occasion however, and after much bumping about we gave up and went off for (yet) another break.

Red-rumped Wheatear

Those in the second vehicle had seen Little Ringed Plover, so as we went back out to the Tagdilt Track we diverted to the small pool to catch up on them.   The two small plovers were easily seen and photos taken.

The drivers dropped us off alongside another wadi so that we could explore on foot whilst they prepared our lunch.   Larks were all around us, mainly Thekla again, but with some Desert and Crested thrown in for good measure.   A large dragonfly (possibly Vagrant or Lesser Hawker) was joined by Painted Lady Butterfly (the High Atlas Mountains being a breeding area for them in Europe) and a rather strange black and white beetle.   As we wandered along a desert hare was flushed, showing off its huge ears and white scut beautifully as it zig -zagged across the stony ground away from us and towards our drivers.

Lunch was fresh bread with chopped green red and yellow peppers, gherkins, olives, cheese, sweetcorn, tomato and tinned tuna.   All washed down with cola or water.   Oranges and bananas made up our dessert.  

Cream-coloured Courser

The breeze was strengthening into a strong wind, and we wrapped up well against it, including covering our mouths and heads.

Fed and watered, and we were off again, this time for the highlight of the trip so far, and one of those birding experiences that happen rarely in a lifetime.   We finally caught up with the Thick-billed Larks.  

We watched a pair of the birds and photographed them from the cars, then we slowly got out and several of the more keen photographers quietly moved forward to get a better shot.   We all gradually joined them on the ground around the happily eating birds.   They were superb, giving us a great show as they fed on seeds and insects just in front of us.   We got remarkably close before one of them realised that they had in fact strayed from the other, a quick contact chirp and they were reunited.

We watched as they flew some short distance away, and meandered across to see them again.   Once more they fed and busied themselves as we watched, thrilled at the experience of being allowed into the confidence of such remarkable birds.   We sat on the ground watching them, and some even lay flat to get the ultimate photo - the birds remained totally at ease, feeding and strutting around in their domain.

Thick-billed Lark

Eventually we had to move on and this time we went off in search of water, for some potential migrant species.   We ended up in a small oasis which our driver Yousef had heard could be good.   Here irrigation channels supply water to several little fields.   Here we had Ring Ouzel, Bluethroat, Tree Pipit, Serin, Swallow, Sand Martin, White Wagtail, Chaffinch, Common Redstart and Collared Dove.

Back towards the hotel as the light subsided and long shadows played on the hillsides, we found Lesser Short-toed Lark and Black-eared Wheatear.

One last wadi to explore and as the nomad's dog barked we decided to keep a healthy distance.   Despite our best efforts we were unable to add anything further to the list so called it quits, and made off for showers, dinner and an early night - for tomorrow we travel to the desert!

So, just to bring the day down to reality, there was one not so pleasant aspect today - the litter!   It appears that plastic bags are simply brought out into the Hamada and dumped wherever the truck driver wants, just for it all to blow around, gathering in the vegetation,  glinting in the sunlight, and generally creating a dismal and depressing sight to those of us who value our environment.

Getting up close and personal

It just brings it home to me that we really cannot stop spreading the word and educating the world to the damage our species is continuing to do to our environment.

I feel a letter coming on . . . . .

The Road to Boulmalne de Dades

Today we left Marrakech for the eastern Hamada land of Toufliht and the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass (2260m).

Chaffinch

We started off by examining the local Magpies more closely so that we could see the diagnostic features of this particular sub species - a bare blue patch of skin behind the eye.   At this same spot we also had fleeting glimpses of Sardinian warbler and Blackcap.

Lunchstop

As we continued on our long drive (at least 5 1/2 hours if you drove non-stop) we kept our eyes peeled for birds along the way.   At our next stop we had Cuckoo - hurray they're on the move! Kestrel, light and dark morph Long-legged Buzzard, Chaffinch (both races) and Chiffchaff.   A long debate raged over a falcon which eventually persuaded my expert companions that it was Barbary Falcon - I enjoyed listening to their musings on feathers and jizz.   Two Barbary Partridge showed themselves momentarily along the ridge several miles away!

Scarce Swallowtail

We carried on to a coffee stop which was just beyond the Tizi-n-Tichka pass where we had Scarce Swallowtail butterfly, another Long-legged Buzzard, Booted Eagle, and many more migrants.

Lunch time was taken at a roadside cafe.   The first treat for me was great views of Sardinian Warbler, a bird which I had failed to be in the presence of on several other trips, and having my appetite whetted first thing this morning, being able to watch this delightful bird at close quarters was brilliant.    Crag Martin swooped around, Subalpine Warbler (fast becoming a favourite as it is such a striking bird, and easy to identify - watch this space on that sweeping statement) and our own Barn Swallow were also noted, along with Painted Lady butterfly.

Lunch was chicken kebab with salad as we sat on a verandah enjoying a view of the hillside, and any passing species.

In the afternoon we stopped for tea (hard-core this birding lark) then moved on for the last part of the journey.   As we neared our next hotel we took a trek through the rough Hamada habitat, where we found Spectacled Warbler, Desert Wheatear, Trumpeter Finch, 'Desert' Southern Grey Shrike - a remarkably pale bird compared with that we should see later in in the Souss Valley.

Hamada Landscape

As the sun set over the stony desert landscape it was an evocative scene with the ever-changing colours of the rocky land around us.   As we wadi-bashed in the dimming light the space and freedom was invigorating, and the thought of a few days exploring this great area was met with eager anticipation.

Oukaimeden, High Atlas

Today we were going up into the High Atlas Mountains, and our aim is to get to the ski resort of Oukaimeden, looking for some mountain specialities.   Before we left the hotel I had to catch up with the House Bunting which was singing outside my room by the pool.   At the front of the hotel we had Pallid

Levaillant's Woodpecker

and Little Swift.

Along the road we saw the local version of Magpie. with it's blue patch near the eye, and large flocks of Spotless Starling, the local equivalent.   Our first stop was prompted by Chris winding his window down - he had heard Levaillant's Woodpecker!   As we got out of the 4x4s one flew over our heads and landed in a tree higher up the hillside, after a few moments  it - and a second individual - moved to a closer tree and gave us excellent views.

Here we also had chance to see Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Serin, Common Bulbul, Common Chaffinch and the Moroccan sub-species which has a greener back and is sometimes referred to as North African Chaffinch.

House Bunting

Soon it was time for us to concentrate on getting higher up towards the 2,600m mark, ss we pressed on, missing several fleeting glimpses along the way.   The road was narrow and twisty and we needed to get up to the top as quickly as possible to maximise our day.   Alpine and Red-billed Chough greeted us.  Crimson-winged Finch and Rock Bunting were all around us, on fences, walls and feeding on the ground.   Higher up Horned Lark fed in large groups, the males looking particularly handsome.   Rock Sparrow and House Sparrow were also seen here.

After walking for some time along the track we decided to retrace our steps and head for lunch.  In a trees by the road we found Mistle Thrush, Serin, Hawfinch and Crossbill.

 By now we had been joined by a nomad who wanted to sell us fossils.   Pete saw it as a personal challenge to do business, the first offer from the seller being 50 dirhams and Pete's response starting at 2!

As we wandered down the valley scanning the low slopes and fields along the way the seller continued to go ahead of us on his moped and then re-find us to try again.  As the slope flattened out we found a flock of Raven feeding with feral pigeons.

Lunch

Soon we were at our restaurant.   Tajine of either chicken or beef was shared amongst us as we ate al fresco in the bright but cool afternoon sunshine.   We reflected on our first morning's birding and looked towards our next session.

We were not out of the fossil-buying woods however and our 'man on a moped' appeared once more.   He skirted around the group looking for any hint of interest and finally sidled up to Pete once more whereupon a final deal was achieved.   The whole thing strung out over about a mile and three hours, but great entertainment!

The afternoon started off higher up where there were few birds, but lots of mountain plants - some flowering.   Early crocus seemed the most numerous, but there were several other species that so far remained unnamed.   Andrew is on the case with the botany ID.   A Long-legged Buzzard circled above us.

Song Thrush

We spent the rest of the day moving slowly back down the mountain road birding as we went, following a small stream where we saw Green Sandpiper, Yellow Wagtail, White-throated Dipper and Water Pipit.

Other birds seen during our travels were Cattle Egret, White Stork, Common Kestrel, Sand Martin, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Black Redstart, Black Wheatear, Mistle Thrush, Common Blackbird, Robin, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Wren, Goldfinch and Greenfinch

Marrakech

After a delayed flight from Gatwick, our arrival in Marrakech left little time for birding on the way to the hotel, but by 7.30 pm we were in the restaurant enjoying our first taste of Moroccan food - buffet style and quite good.   Soup followed by various salads and rice with fish, chicken curry and lamb pieces.   Desert was a creme caramel, a strange dome of some confection and many small cakes of indeterminate flavour.   I had the Moroccan equivalent of a microscopic Bakewell tart (one bite and it was gone) followed by the best thing by far - fresh orange slices with cinnamon - they were sweet and delicious.

After dinner we had an introduction into Moroccan  lifestyles as we took a stroll around the outside of a local park, playing tawny owl in the hope of attracting some interest.

Whilst we didn't get any reaction at all from an owl, I did however get some heckling by a group of chaps who were relieving themselves against a wall along the main road - delightful - and I didn't even have my camera handy!

Thank goodness I am travelling with a group who provided excellent protection in the shape of Chris (from Wise Birding), Lee, Andrew, Darryl, Pete, and Neil.

What a difference a week makes!

At last a lovely bright sunny day without the need for all the thermals and layers.

a Starling with a long bill

My usual weekly wander took me to Bossenden Wood this week.   We parked in a side road and as we donned the walking gear there were lots of birds enjoying feeders and shelter in a nearby garden.   First off were Greenfinch and Siskin with Blue Tit, Great Tit, Robin and a Starling with the longest beak I have come across - it looked more like a hummingbird beak than our familiar Starling!

We took the lane towards the wood and found Goldfinch, Long-tailed Tit and Stonechat and at least 17 Meadow Pipits.  The latter were washing and foraging along the side of the path in a small ditch which held water, as we moved along they flew ahead of us, ending up in a nearby tree until we had passed and then they returned to their preening and eating venue.

Bossenden Wood

Chaffinch, Jay, Magpie and Crow were seen in the fields and hedges, two Great-spotted Woodpeckers flew overhead and another was heard drumming.

Green Woodpecker was the next bird we heard, then Pheasant called and a group of Wood Pigeon perched in the tops of the trees nearby.

In the wood our first flock consisted of Blue Tit, Great Tit. Siskin and Long-tailed Tit, all lovely to see and hear.   Our mid-morning stop was accompanied by the insistent "teacher, teacher" of Great Tit.   In fact the whole day was just full of birdsong, the sun doing it's work bringing out their joy which just encouraged ours too.

Butcher's Broom 

The afternoon started off down a wide ride between the trees.  Signs of spring were not just restricted to birds with a Water Boatman [or Backswimmer] Notonecta glauca which had got itself stranded on the path, so we moved it back to the puddles.    We saw Butchers Broom Ruscus aculeatus  again - Sally remembered this from our last visit.   A strange plant with leaves that are actually flat shoots known as cladodes which give the appearance of stiff, spiny-tipped leaves. The small greenish flower sprouts from the middle of this.    A ladybird was using the closed leaves at the end of one branch as a safe haven.

We added Song Thrush, Blackbird, Buzzard to our list during the afternoon which was punctuated with many more of the mornings species, and a couple of Pied Wagtails when we got back to the road again.