Anglesey in December

Having had a couple of days where the weather kept us in, it was great to get out along the Welsh coastline today to have the cobwebs blown away.

From the house we had already seen Herring Gull, huge flocks of Lapwing, Starling, Raven (feeding on a nearby sheep carcass), and Wood Pigeon.   In the garden around the feeders we had Siskin, Blackbird, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Wren and Great Spotted Woodpecker.

Brents looking for landing space

We started out at Penrhos where there were Black-headed Gulls on the pond, along with Mallard, Coot and some rather dodgy ducks.   In the nearby woodland there were Robin, Blue Tit, Great Tit, and on a feeder near the burger truck a Coal Tit was also seen.   We were waiting for the tide to recede to reveal some of the Brent Geese feeding grounds, but by the time we had returned to the coast, the birds were still swimming waiting for food to appear.   We looked for Mediterranean Gull whilst we waited, but no luck so far.

Brents with Curlew

As the mud was cleared Redshank, Curlew, Turnstone and Bar-tailed Godwit came in to feed.   The Pale-Bellied Brent Geese had a few Dark-bellied mixed in with them - as opposed to my usual mix of Dark-bellied with the very occasional Pale-bellied, in the South East.   We were trying to find colour-rings on any of the birds, and with some diligence we finally found six with another potential where the ring had probably been broken.   [When we returned home we found out that one Brent had been ringed in Canada and another in Northern Ireland, the rest will need further investigation].

Some local bird watchers got us on a Slavonian Grebe which was way off in the distance.   As we scanned the bay there were also Great Crested Grebe and Red-breasted Merganser.   By now the tide had receded a little and Oystercatcher had joined the other waders on the shoreline.   The Geese were gradually moving across our line of view and slightly nearer, enabling us to confirm some of our earlier colour-ring readings.

The Skerries

One Mediterranean Gull was found on the beach, but before we could get on it well enough to see colour rings it was off - soaring away from us.

All the birds flew up at one stage, spooked by a Merlin which shot through - needless to say Turnstone and Redshank noticed it far earlier than we did, but then it is life and death for them!

Further out to sea were Goldeneye, Wigeon, Pochard and Shag.   We had our picnic lunch in the car as it was far too cold to sit outside.   We tried to lure the Med gull back in by sacrificing some of Paul's turkey sandwich, but although it brought in a large noisy flock, the Mediterranean Gull refused to show itself.

At Holyhead Harbour we had four female and two male Red-Breasted Mergansers and a Black Guillemot, but little else.

The afternoon was spent at Cemlyn, a windy spot looking out towards The Skerries, which showed well in the short bursts of sunlight we had.   The find of the day came here however, in the form of a wintering Whimbrel.   Perched on top of the rocks along the shoreline it showed well until we tried to photograph it - then it disappeared against the rocks, its plumage camouflaged well.

Whimrel - a dot in the distance!

More Red-Breasted Merganser, Shag, Cormorant, Turnstone (with a possible Purple Sandpiper which refused to re-appear), Redshank, Gannet, Shelduck, Razorbill, Guillemot, and a fleeting view of a Kittiwake was had by Phil.

Inland there were Collared Dove, Rock Dove Dunnock, Song Thrush, many more Raven

In the pools just inland of the coast we had Pintail, Mallard, Shoveler, Grey Heron and Coot.

On the way home we took a detour (or two) inland and added Greylag Geese to our day's tally.   In all we had around 66 species, a pleasing total for a cold and windy December day.

pre-Christmas birding

My pre-Xmas bird watching this year has been spent in Essex, Kent and Wales!   An eclectic mix I am sure you will agree.

Tuesday was spent at Wicken Fen with Ken on the hunt for Hen Harrier coming into roost.   Although the day was rather grey, and the ground wet, we did manage to see large numbers of winter thrushes.   Fieldfare were the most gregarious, perching high in the trees and giving us a great show, if a little hard to photograph.

Wicken Fen

Redwing were harder to spot, but probably in as high numbers.   Chaffinch appeared everywhere, in ones and twos, flying between the hedgerows and grabbing our attention.   Over the set-aside fields beyond the reserve we spotted two Ring-tail Hen Harriers, and a couple of female Marsh Harriers.   From the Tower hide we could see the ducks and cormorants on the pond, the main birds seen were Teal, Gadwall, Mallard, Coot and Moorhen.   As we wandered around the reserve we saw several Kestrels.

At the end of the afternoon we waited by the visitor centre and watched as first one, then two ring-tails came in to roost.  Then a long-awaited male appeared, and crossed over with a Barn Owl, both appearing to dive into the reedbed within seconds of each other - the Barn Owl was my second in a week and the year!

A Whooper Swan has found itself an easy life with the chickens on the smallholding near the entrance to the reserve, it does not appear to be ringed.   Needless to say it did not find itself on my day list of 28 species.

Orchard, Kent

The next day I returned to home territory and with the usual crew went off in search of more wintering thrushes  - we were really after Waxwings, but as we didn't find any I will have to content myself with more large flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing in the local orchards.  

A late morning jaunt to the Isle of Grain added a few waders and Brent Geese to our list for the day, but nothing for the year list.   Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Grey Plover, Knot, Redshank, Curlew and Shelduck were the main additions for the day.

Then on to the weekend and a wander along the coast in North Wales where I am lucky enough to be  spending Christmas this year.   On the journey up we counted 16 Red Kite and 12 Common Buzzard - one also sadly lying dead at the side of the road.   There were several Kestrels which is good to see as they had been less noticeable in the South East last year, but seem to be coming back in 2012.

Although it wasn't the best of mornings for light, it was at least dry so I went off for a wander along the coast to see what could be found.   The most delightful sight was at least 53 Pintail, with 34 Teal, around 35 Curlew, and over 700 Lapwing.   I also counted 153 Shelduck, but they were further out on the estuary and I probably missed quite a few.   Along the raised walkway Robin, Dunnock, Great Tit, Raven, Carrion Crow and Starling were found.   Several flocks of Lapwing flew over as I wandered along, and appeared to be gathering in one large mass in a nearby field.   Four Little Grebe completed my short walk list.   The heavens opened and I retreated to cover, warmth and tea.

Cliffe and Northward Hill

Last Wednesday I added three new species to my year list, and one of them a new bird for me (which after 30-odd years of birdwatching is no mean feat - although it might just say something about the standard of my talents!)

Brambling

With a hard frost the landscape was beautiful with bright sunshine glistening on the trees and hedgerows.   We decided to opt for a local walk and ended up at Northward Hill where there have been Brambling recently.   With his usual diligence Malcolm found the first one before I even had my walking boots on, and then proceeded to show off by finding a second bird.   The set-aside area which has been planted with sunflowers was proving to be a real magnet for Chaffinch and other small birds, and as we drove down the lane and then walked back up it, huge numbers of birds flew across in front of us.   The Brambling looked beautiful with their colourful plumage showing off really well in the sunlight, a new addition for the year list.   We also found Fieldfare, Blackbird, Blue Tit and Great Tit.

Black-headed Gull still almost in breeding plumage

After a brisk walk to get some warmth in our feet we decided to move on to Cliffe.   A quick picnic lunch in the car park and we were off again, striding out to keep the circulation going.   By now the sun had thawed most of the frost and we were back to a green landscape.   From the viewpoint below the pinnacle we scanned the birds before us.  A Kingfisher appeared just in front of us, it's bright blue back glinting in the sunshine and thrilling us before darting off with a flash of red chest.

Frost on Rose-bay Willowherb

After a count of Coot, Little Grebe and Great Crested Grebe we also noted Teal, Mallard, Pochard, Cormorant, Pintail, and Goldeneye.   I saw a couple of ducks in the far distance which made us think of Scaup - we settled on Tufted Duck.   Next on Malcolm's surprise spots was a sleeping duck with what appeared to be a stiff-tail.   After watching it for some time with the telescope and our binoculars we decided that it could be the Velvet Scoter which had been reported.   Luck was on our side when a Great Crested Grebe got just a little bit too close and the duck showed its head and distinctive bill, and the pale patch on the side of the head.   As it retreated from the grebe it flapped its wings and showed off the white panels so distinctive of the species.   So there was my first ever Velvet Scoter.

Velvet Scoter

To round off the afternoon, Sally spotted an owl flying over the fields at the far side of the pools over by the Black Barn.   Again we called on binoculars and telescope, the wing had a very distinctive white leading edge and as we watched we could confirm that it was a Barn Owl - another addition for the 2012 list.

It just goes to show that there is always something new and exciting to enjoy and the more you watch the more you discover.

Stodmarsh with the local RSPB Group

Acleris schalleriana

Having just returned from rather warmer climes, the chill of Sunday morning was a bit of a shock.   However, when we gathered at Stodmarsh car park in the sunshine we all felt a little brighter and anticipated a good day's birdwatching with Ian and Sue at the helm.   Waxwings had been reported in the area in the last couple of days, but to manage expectations I should say now that we did not catch up with any despite our diligent scanning.

We did have the delight of a flock of Siskin however.  Always a great one to catch up with, their high pitched calls heralding their arrival and then with lovely plumage showing off in the bright sunlight - it makes me all poetic!  As we moved off we noticed that a large part of the reed bed had been cut back as we continued into the woodland and a discussion on succession management ensued.   Blackbird, Chaffinch, Wren, and Great Tit followed in quick succession as we continued through the woodland and at the far end a Mute Swan was quietly preening in a small pool almost hidden by the low branches of the overhanging trees.

Once out in the open our first sighting was of a female Marsh Harrier flying low over the reedbeds.   On the pools there were hundreds of ducks, mainly Teal with Shoveler, Pochard, Mallard and Gadwall.   Cormorant were perched in a tree over the water enjoying the warmth of the sun and one lone bird took possession of the tern raft.   A couple of Tufted Duck were also found.   A large flock of Greylag Geese flew over and finally landed in their usual noisy style.

Reedbeds

As we continued along the path Blackbirds and Robins were moving ahead of us, with their alarm calls announcing our presence to all other species.   A few Redwing were feeding on hawthorn bushes and a Cetti's Warbler called, but as usual remained unseen.   A family group of at least 14 Long-tailed Tits moved through, and a Sparrowhawk circled overhead initially causing some identification issues.

Pauline's eagle-eye spotted a micro-moth which Peter has identifed as Acleris schalleriana.   He adds "it flies in August and September then hibernates from October to May.  It must have been in a particularly warm spot to fly today.  It occurs locally in Kent".   Thanks for the research Peter.

As this part of our walk came to an end we added Blue Tit, Greater Black-backed Gull and a huge flock of Lapwing which were being disturbed by several overflying Marsh Harriers - including a lovely male.   No sign of our tagged bird from earlier in the year this time though.   Peter also flushed a Kingfisher.

The scrape at Grove Ferry

We decided to take advantage of the shelter in the car park for lunch before moving on to Grove Ferry.

The first few yards were in fact the best at Grove Ferry, but that's the way bird and nature watching goes sometimes.   Ian found a group of Fieldfare and Redwing feeding in a hawthorn some distance away, and as is often the case, the more we watched the more birds we saw.   In the fields Magpie and Crow were feeding and squabbling.   On the water Little Grebe was seen, but there was very little else.   A Great White Egret flew away from us, and gave us an excellent opportunity to note the differences between it and little egret - the flight and wing shape coupled with those black feet and the overall size readily distinguishing it.

We continued to a couple of the hides at this end of the reserve and added more marsh harrier - including one which gave us amazing close-up views as it passed in front of the hide - Blackbird, Kestrel, Mallard and Gadwall.

We watched a large groups of Cormorants flew towards us in skeins, they appeared to be coming in from the coast to roost on the reserve.

There has been some debate as to the accuracy of these reports over the years, so just to prove that Malcolm was there

. . . . . . . . .

India Day 11 - Fog

White-throated Kingfisher

Thick fog enveloped the boat first thing and did not clear sufficiently for us to move off on the tender until around 8.30 am.   We spent the time having a leisurely breakfast, saying our farewells to the crew and watching a Whate-throated Kingfisher which was looking very bedraggled as it perched on the rail of the boat.   It obviously felt as sorry for itself as our boat sans propeller shafts!   I could hear Wagtail but nothing was to be seen in the thick mist.

Preparing the Tender

Lots of time was spent sitting around until we could leave.   When we did finally start to go off on the smaller tender there was a member of crew constantly monitoring the depth of the water with a bamboo pole.    Bananas, biscuits and fruit juice were provided on the journey by our ever-helpful crew.

Birds over the Rubbish Tip

We were moving far slower than expected which meant that our planned birding and shopping stops were once again curtailed.  Those husbands have a lot to answer for - having arranged for us to be delayed to stop the shopping they had inadvertently scuppered our bird watching walk!

So, with a count of Great Crested Grebe, Barn Swallow, Great Cormorant, Ruddy Shelduck, and several River Dolphin swimming alongside the boat our cruise came to an end.   When we arrived at Guwahati.

Their mothers love them!

Once we were all back together we had a hasty lunch then were off to the airport - via the local rubbish tip - no birdwatching trip is complete without either a rubbish tip or sewage works.   Black Kites, Greater Adjutant, Egrets all enjoying picking through the rubbish - they even know to follow the vehicles for a "fresh" delivery!

After a rather ripe (aroma-wise) visit we were off to the airport for a flight to Kolkata and our final night in India.

India Day 10 - "We are Sailing, we are . . . . "

early morning mist

This is the last full day on the boat as we need to sail down to Guwahati to get our flight to Kolkata tomorrow, and the flight home on Friday.

We made about four hours of our fourteen hour sailing yesterday, but the mainstay of the journey is to take place today.   Miles of sand banks and meandering river stretch out before us as we pass remote settlements where temporary homes are.   Made of bamboo, these shacks are used until the monsoons come and then rebuilt wherever the new sandbanks are formed.   They are mainly used by people cutting and selling reeds, and by fishermen who dry the fish over open fires and then save them for times when food is scare when the floods come.

Living on a Sandbank

There is a huge Bangladeshi immigrant population who eke out a living with a few goats, some cows, occasionally sheep, and then a small allotment or a few banana trees.   Although living in rough bamboo and mud huts they all look amazingly smart and colourful in their traditional dress.

Birds are not making much of a showing today with a few Ruddy Shelduck, Bar-headed Geese, Greylag, Gadwall, Mallard, Barn Swallows (but not in the high numbers of yesterday - as at 3 pm).

Ruddy Shelduck

The boat stopped around 12.00 noon when we appeared to hit a sandbank which ground along the hull.   We were in the downstairs lounge having a lecture on photograph composition at the time!  After that there was a naan bread making demonstration which most enjoyed - the rest of us contented ourselves with relaxing on deck.   As we dined, and then relaxed again - this bird watching is so stressful - the boat had still not moved and word went round that the men had paid the captain to delay the boat just long enough to prevent us getting not our destination in the to go to the market for clothes shopping.   The next rumour was that there was a leak and the chef was preparing more naan bread to use as a patch.   The reality remained unknown for some time.

Our local Welcome

The unfortunate story is that two of the propeller shafts had been bent making it impossible to steer the boat.   Try as they might the crew couldn't rectify the matter so dropped the anchor and we sat mid-river all night.

The moth of the trip!

India Day 9 - Kaziranga NP

Grey-capped Pygmy-Woodpecker - it's in there somewhere

Another day in the national park, where our first birds were Common Iora, Great Tit (a paler version than ours), Blue Whistling Thrush, Common Myna, Red-vented Bulbul, Grey-capped Pygmy-woodpecker, Coppersmith Barbet and Yellow-footed Green-pigeon all seen in the car park.

Indian Roller

Paddy fields

A House Boat

Our intended venue was closed today due to some poachers being in that part of the Park - the army and police were out in force to deal with the culprits but we had to give the area a wide berth.   We therefore returned to our previous trails, which took us past the roadside pool  where our bus had waited for the 'gibbon spotters' a couple of days go.   Here Barn Swallow were feeding and swooping, a large group of Citrine Wagtail perched in a bush, many Pond-heron were stalking fish, Open-billed Stork, Lesser Adjutant, Pied Starling, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacana completed our initial scan.   As we watched - enjoying coffee flavoured toffees purchased at the kiosk in the nearby lay-by - Northern and Grey-headed Lapwing were also seen.   Red-bested Parakeet flew around giving us the slip for quite a while until we finally caught up with them.   As we moved on several Common Snipe were seen, with a large number of adjutants, where the feeding must have been particularly good.   White-throated Kingfisher flew back and forth several times allowing great views.   Our guide found a Plain Prinia perched on a nearby bush, which stayed long enough for everyone to get good views through the telescope.  

Striated Grassbird was next in the scope, with more well lit views as it was high on a tree but almost at our eye level.   Chestnut-vented Starling and Rosy Pipit completed this part of the day.

Once we had entered the park itself we stopped at one of the pools seen two days ago, this time we knew most of the birds there.   Scaly-breasted Munia, Siberian Stonechat and Woolly-necked Stork were seen along with the usual suspects.

Moving further into the park we had another hot spot with Tickell's Leaf-warbler, Pied Flycatcher and beyond these Wigeon, Pintail, Greylag and Bar-headed geese.

Running Repairs

Lineated Barbet, Black-hooded Oriole and Red Jungle-fowl were the final birds seen here.

We were due back on board so that we could leave Silgat for the final time and our journey downstream for our final destination.

As we sailed off into the sunset there were an amazing number of swallows - feeding both low over the water and also in great numbers higher up.   Having done a rough count we estimated around 30,000 passed as we were watching.

Along the road there were more safety mottos including:

Drink whiskey, drive risky
Keep your nerve on the curve
If you are married, divorce speed
Be Mr Late not Late Mr
Don't undertake or you will meet your undertaker
Be gentle on my curves
Please drive slowly, someone is waiting
And
Peep peep, don't sleep

Food for thought there.

India Day 8 - Nameri National Park

Bhorelli River, Nameri NP

A long drive to the national park where we spend nearly 45 minutes in the process of going to the loo and arranging our tickets.   Whilst this went on we bird watched in the garden and found Greater Flameback and some Red-vented Bulbul.

This done, we went off in the buses for a walk on the other side of the river.   We were dropped off by the river bank and then had to wait some time for five tardy boatmen and guards with guns (there are elephants in this area).   We were split into those wanting a longer walk and those wanting a slower and/or shorter
walk.  Along the river we found three Goosander, Great Cormorant, Little Cormorant and Ruddy Shelduck.

Juvenile Crested Serpent Eagle

Once on the other side the first boatload did some birding and found Red-whiskered Bulbul to add to the Red-vented, Grey-backed Shrike and  some soaring Himalayan Griffon Vultures.

Unfortunately the slowness of the boatmen in getting us all over the river - it took three crossings to complete the task - meant that we only started walking as a group around 10.45 am - far too late for meaningful birding.

Still, we decided to make the most of it and off we went looking for any new species.   A Lineated Barbet called but remained unseen.   We walked through damp meadows where wooden bridges had been built with bamboo handrails.   A juvenile Serpent Eagle perched on a branch overhanging the track ahead of us

Moving the cattle

giving everyone the opportunity to view in the telescope.   Meanwhile a flock of Short-billed Minivet noisily fed nearby.   We continued along the track until we reached a watchtower, on the way we saw a broken branch which had been pulled down by an elephant only minutes before as we walked - our armed guard had heard the crack and warned us not to stay away from the group.

As we rested around the watchtower a Large Woodshrike flew past, not stopping to give us any decent view.

Now it was time for us to return to base and the slower walkers began first, the rest of us following some minutes later.  The heat of the day made the going slower than on the outward journey, but we all reached the shade of the reserve centre and discussed the best way back.   The stony short walk or the sandy

Red-breasted Parakeet

trek.   Even though by now it was getting very hot, we decided on the sand as that would mean less time in the boat and should generally make the process slightly quicker.   Once back over the river the first bush load went off to the centre for lunch, the others joining us there some little while later.

After lunch we split into two parties: one going rafting the second electing to stay around the centre birding in the grounds.   As we had done precious little 'real' birdwatching in the last few days I chose the birdwatching.   Firstly we found a White-tailed Flycatcher, then Greater Flameback gave great views with

Greater Flameback

two birds calling high in the tree top in the car park.   A small flock of Oriental White-eye, Yellow-vented Warbler, Hume's Warbler and Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher took our attention for quite a while as we managed to get everyone to see each species.   We moved back towards the garden, but our driver was keen to show us some more birds and found the Flameback again, then insisted that we went down the lane outside the centre for a few years to see a monkey - this was in fact a Capped Langur.   His next trick was to find a Hoary-bellied Squirrel which he pointed out with the help of Richard's laser pen (this delighted him and we struggled to get it back!) another Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher was thrown in for good measure.  

The drivers enjoyed the birdwatching too

Buoyed with success he brought in support in the shape of other drivers who were keen to show us what they could find and more flycatchers, pigeons and shrikes came out of the woodwork.   Eventually he wandered off with Richard's telescope slung over his shoulder looking quite the professional!

We wandered back into the garden where Common Hill Myna was found, a White-tailed Flycatcher caused some confusion in bad light and a Blue-throated Barbet put the cat among the pigeons as the bill was pale and the field guide showed it should be dark!

Sunrise over the Bhorelli River

Eventually those rafting returned and we all boarded the bus for the two hour journey back to the boat which had moved back to its mooring of two days ago so that we can go to Kaziranga NP again tomorrow.

India Day 7 - The Elephant Safari

Our night was punctuated by trips to the loo as both Chris and I had delicate stomachs.   Added to which someone in the room next door was snoring fit to burst and we got very little sleep - two hours would be a generous estimate.

And baby came too . . 

Today however, we were due to go for an elephant ride and neither of us was prepared to miss that.   When we finally got up we found that several other folk were also suffering and had decided to stay behind.   Hazel was ill on the journey and we were all feeling a little jaded when we finally arrived.

We had the option of sitting in a little two seater 'settee' facing out, or straddling the beast and looking forward.   Chris and I decided to face forwards and were soon sitting up enjoying the ride.   Our bull elephant was quite a show-man and made a delightful companion, ably led by his handler.   They had a
great relationship, with the elephant stroking the handler's hand with his trunk.   At one stage Chris dropped her packet of tissues and the elephant picked them up and handed them back.  On command he put his trunk up in salute to the others, and at one stage we were on a ridge looking back at the rest which must have made a great sight in the early morning sunlight.

Mum with baby hiding behind

We saw many rhinos, swamp deer, a cobra skin and a honey bee swarm.   Once back at base we watched as the elephants were relieved of their saddles and allowed a bath in the nearby pool.   Behind them a Pied Harrier was perched on a low tree.  

After an hour we moved off for breakfast.   Needless to say I abstained on this occasion, as so far I had escaped the full force of an upset stomach! (too much information I am sure)

After breakfast we were off to the jeeps and another drive.   More elephants, rhinos and birds including:

Early morning light at Kaziranga

Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon

Red Junglefowl, Teal, Pintail, Wigeon, Indian Roller, White-throated Kingfisher, Spotted Dove, a pretty Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon, Common Redshank, Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Bronze-winged Jacana, Northern and River Lapwing, Red-wattled Lapwing, River Tern and Pallas's Fish-eagle.   At one stage there were vultures soaring high in the sky, Richard and Sujan were able to identify one of them as a Slender-billed Vulture.   Crested-serpent Eagle, Greater-spotted Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle and Changeable Hawk Eagle were all added to our birds of prey list.   On one of the pools we saw large numbers of Great and Little Cormorant, Darter and Spot-billed Pelican.   Little Heron was another addition for the day.   Black-necked Stork flew in small groups overhead, and Woolly-necked Stork fed in nearby fields.   Long-tailed and Grey-backed Shrike were also seen well.

Elephant Egrets perhaps??

On our way back to the boat we saw House Sparrow in a nearby town and also added Feral Pigeon for the day list.

Back on the boat we had the chance to birdwatch along the river again, and here were the usual specialities including Bar-headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Pied Kingfisher, Asian Palm Swift, Osprey, White-tailed Eagle, Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Himalayan Griffon Vulture and Short-toed Eagle were also seen as we sailed along.

Black-eared Kite

Eventually we arrived at our overnight mooring just outside a village alongside the river.   On a rock in the middle of the river there was a Ruddy Turnstone and Black-eared Kite took advantage of the presence of man to provide food.

India Day 6 - Kaziranga National Park

Western Hoolock Gibbon

The highlight of our trip was to be the time spent in the Kaziranga NP where there are opportunities to see many of the Indian specialities both avian and non-avian.  

Early breakfast (5.30 am) was followed by a 6 am departure in two mini buses.   As we left the boat a black bird was seen on top of the bridge, which we eventually decided was a Blue Rock Thrush - it did take all day for us to get to this conclusion however!  Along the river we had White Wagtail, Intermediate and Little Egret, Feral Pigeon and Rufous Treepie.   A Common Kingfisher was a catch up for me, having eluded my list on the previous three days.  

Guarding his territory

During the hour and a half journey we saw rural Indian life waking up with the sunrise.   People watched as we continued along the journey, interested to see what we were doing.   A couple of rhinoceros were feeding in a field at the side of the road - an incongruous sight for us but normal for this part of India - they were well hidden by tall grass, so we needed some better sightings.

Calling to the rest of the family

We had two stops - one by default, where we left the other bus behind us and did some birding by the side of the road overlooking a small lake.   Here we had several rhino, a pair of Swamp Deer - the male with handsome antlers, Water Buffalo, Citrine Wagtail (found when I thought I had a pipit) Rosy Pipit, yet more White Wagtail, Spot-billed Duck,  Intermediate and Little Egret.   At this point we got a telephone call that Gibbons had been found by the other bus, so we rushed back to find them and sure enough an obliging family of four (mum, dad, teenager and baby) were feeding on a type of fig in a tall tree by the side of the road.   A great display was being put on by the male who swung from branch to branch, calling to warn any other gibbons to keep away from him and this family.  As we crowded around the tree taking our photos and using binoculars to get a close-up view several locals drew up in lorries and vans to join in and marvel at the sight.   They were keen to see our photos and join in our delight.

Red Junglefowl

As we moved on, a white-throated kingfisher shot past and then perched on a tree giving great views.   Common and Jungle Myna, Large-billed Crow and Red Junglefowl entertained us.  

At the side of the road there were mottos painted on rocks encouraging safe driving - "if you sleep your family will weep" "life's short, don't make it shorter".   I just wish I could have noted more of them.

Indian Rhinoceros

Once we entered the park we decanted into five jeeps, with the three guides spaced at either end and the middle.   We had great views of many rhinos, including one mother with young.   Indian elephants were also seen well with a couple of large groups strung out across the landscape.   Several had hitch-hikers in the form of egret and myna which lined up for the ride on the elephants' backs.  

Back with birds - and they were not exactly falling over themselves to be seen, but we did manage to add several new species to the list including; Changeable Hawk-eagle, Crested Serpent-eagle, Asian Barred Owlet and a pair of displaying Roller.   We had a great opportunity to compare heron species with Grey and

Kaziranga National Park

Purple facing each other, then we had Great, Intermediate and Little Egret standing side by side - a brilliant comparison.   Rose-ringed and Alexandrine Parakeet perched for us, and a Blue-bearded Bee-eater was seen on a branch then gave a display flight before disappearing.

Finally it was time to return to base for a rather late lunch - delayed further as we stopped to buy some local tea.

Our purpose-built Jetty

Lunch at 2.30pm, and by 3.45 we were off again, this time for a short walk along the side of the river from the boat.   Not much to report, although we did hear Lineated Barbet and saw Blue Rock Thrush (this confirmed the bird off the boat first thing) and Whistling Thrush.

As everything was covered in dust from the jeep ride, it was great to get a shower and relax before dinner.