Karawari Day 3

This morning we went off at 5.45am again, to try for some more from our 'missing' list.

We tried for Hook-billed Kingfisher in the garden, this is a nocturnal Kimgfisher which sings early morning and late evening.   We could track it to one particular tree,  and after  playing the tape, the bird shot past us.   We followed it down the track, but after three fly-pasts we had to admit defeat, still at least we could identify it from the call!

Twelve-wired Bird of
Paradise - minus his wires

Along the river Mettalic Starling were feeding on mayflies which were on the surface of the water.   Eclectus Parrot flew across in great light, showing off their plumage, a Bronze Ground-dove shot across in front of us, then disappeared out of view.   Many of the birds seen over the last couple of days were around, and we had almost given up hope of any major new finds.   Christ, our guide had other ideas though and took the boat into a secluded lagoon, as we scanned the edges for small birds, two large pigeons flew across in front of us and landed in a near-by palm.   It was a pair of Victoria Crowned Pigeons!   They were amazing, one sat in full view on a date palm near the fruits, looking majestic and regal, quivering the beautiful crest as it preened.   We watched for some time and took many photographs then decided to move back towards breakfast.   Unfortunately the battery on the boat had other ideas and was flat.   We had to wait about 45 minutes for another boat to come to our rescue and bump-start the engine!

Our post-breakfast walk was another hot, sweaty affair, but gleaned Rusty Pithoui and Mimic Melaphaga.

Local village

Having exhausted most of the species to be found along the river we took a stroll along the airstrip in the afternoon.   It was sunny, hot and humid and we strolled along slowly enjoying the birds to be seen.   Large-billed Gerygone, Black Sunbird, Intermediate Egret, Wattled Lapwing, Orange-bellied Fruit-dove,
Streak-headed Honey-eater, Coronated Fruit-dove to name but a few.   Palm Cocktoo flew back and forth as we continued down the grass, Lowland Peltops, Metallic Starling, Edward's Fig-parrot, a female 12 wired Bird of Paradise sat for a few minutes on the top of a bare branch, then disappeared from view.   Our
guide pointed out a Whistling Kite nest with young in it.   Sulphur-crested Cockatoo showed off it's size and lovely white plumage on several occasions, at one point it was mobbed by smaller birds but looked unconcerned.   Red-cheeked Parrot, Meyer's Frairbird (a most unhandsome avian specimen), Lesser Black
Coucal, Dollarbird and finally a Papuan Needletail!

Karawari Cruising

Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise

We started at 5.30 am with tea, coffee and banana cake, before setting off pre-dawn to try to find a 12 wired Bird of Paradise.   Not long after we had set off in the boat, our guide said he could see the bird.   To ensure we had the best view possible, he took us onto the land, through a short forest fringe to a path from where we had excellent views of a male, sadly lacking his 12 wires! It is moult time for him.   We continued cruising, adding Rufous Night- Heron, Little Black Cormorant, had great views of  4 Palm Cockatoo sitting in a palm tree - very apt - Grey Cuckoo-Dove and Glossy Manucode were also added to our trip  list before we had our second stop, this time through a forest which was infested with mosquitos and where we were up to our ankles in water in some places, but it was worth it - after some patience we saw King Bird of Paradise.

Back to the lodge for breakfast, it was then time for a turn  around the garden.   By now the sun was high in the sky, and the temperature and humidity were soaring.   The mozzies were feeding well, and after about 40 minutes we decided to admit defeat and return to the veranda for cooling drinks.   We did manage to see male and female Black Sunbird, Mimic Meliphaga, Variable Pithoui and heard a Yellow-billed Kingfisher.

The lodge above the river

After lunch (and a lengthy siesta) we were off down the river again, this time adding four Hornbills, Meyer's Friarbird, Spangled Drongo, Brown Oriole, Orange-bellied Fruit- dove, Oriental Cuckoo, a flying Palm Cockatoo, Red-cheeked Parrot, Brown Cuckoo-Dove and just to remind us of home, a lovely Common
Sandpiper which was presumably on migration from Siberia.

More Edward's Fig-parrot, and Dusky Loris going were going into roost as we returned to the Lodge.

Ambua to Karawari

Today we were once again out birding at 6.30 am in the hope of adding another species to our list.

Smoke rising from the local homes

We managed one new heard bird - Black Pithoui, but apart from that we only saw species already logged, including: Great Woodswallow - a group of five or six perched in a line on the usual tree.   In  the lodge garden - Short-tailed Paradigalla, Superb Bird of Paradise, Black Sicklebill, Great Egret, Grey Wagtail, Capped White-eye, Red Collared Myzomela, Island Leaf Warbler, Willie Wagtail, Pied Bushchat and Common Smokey Honeyeater.   We also heard Quail in a nearby field.

Tari Gap Road and the Airstrip

Soon it was time to return to the lodge, pack and take our leave of Ambua for Karawari.   This is a lodge deep in the Sepik River complex and we were all looking forward to a change of habitat and bird species.

Although our flight was delayed about 30 minutes, we were soon on our way.   The smooth flight took around 40 minutes and we landed on the grassed airstrip near the lodge.   Here we're Masked Lapwing, Lowland Peltops, Sacred Kingfisher, Brown Oriole,    It was then a short walk to the boat which took us down river, where a vehicle took us uphill to the lodge itself.

Karawari Lodge

Idyllic sums it up.  Our rooms overlooked a tributary of the Sepik River and there were trees as far as they eye could see.   A fantastic array of forest which held great fascination for us as it help Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Black Kite, Brahimy Kite, Whistling Kite, Western Black-capped Lory.

After lunch as I sat on the small airy veranda I spotted an Eclectus Parrot flying overhead, giving it's distinctive call as it passed by.

Our afternoon was spent cruising down river, where we saw a cornucopia of avian life including; Little Black Cormorant, Pacific Black Duck, Dollarbird, Pacific Swallow, Eclectus Parrot, Black Kite, Brahimy Kite,Western Black-Capped Lory, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Intermediate and Great Egret, Uniform Swiftlets, oozed Butcher Bird, Whistling Kite, Blyth's Hornbill was finally seen in the wild, the only other sighting was by Keith and myself on a previous day when one was spotted on the top of a lorry outside someone's house!   We added Piñon Imperial Pigeon, Common Koel,
Yellow-faced Mynah and Red-cheeked Parrot.   Collared Imperial Pigeon was seen well in the scope, a handsome pair of birds in great plumage.   We were lucky to see Edward's Fig-parrot as it shot from view.

Flower decorations everywhere

Huge flocks of Metallic Starling were flying along the river going into roost, the juveniles standing out with their patchy plumage, the adults living up, to their names well.   Dusky Lori's were the other most numerous bird, with hundreds of them flying overhead to a unknown roost which must be enormous.

Sunset at Sepik River

As the sun set over the river it was time to go back to the lodge for a quick wash and brush up, dinner, checklist and an early bed.   The sounds of the tropics lulled us off to sleep.

Wigmen . . strange but true

We started off in the garden again today, down to the Helipad at 6.20am.  Unfortunately there was a light mist which made spotting birds across the valley rather hard, we did find Rufous-naped Whistler, "Common Smokey", Yellow-browed Melidictes, Glossy and Mountain Swiftlets, and Island Leaf Warbler.

Ornate Fruit-dove

As we were struggling to find anything new we took the bus up the road in search of something new for our trip list.   Within minutes we were rewarded when Phil found an Ornate Fruit-dove, a very handsome dove with an orangey-maroon chest and maroon on the shoulder.   As we watched, Stephanie's Astrapia called, Brown Sicklebill was also heard, and King of Saxony displayed out of sight until it was spotted on it's usual perch, shivering it's long streamers and calling.

The Tari Gap Road

After a while, with nothing else to be found we returned to the lodge garden to try the valley once more.    Black Sicklebill, Short-tailed Paradigalla, and Great Woodswallow were seen again, but we finally managed to find a Rufous-throated Bronze-Cuckoo.

Soon it was time to go down to the local village for a display by the local Wigmen, they were to perform a Sing-sing which would be a combined welcome and goodbye for us.   The local tribe, the Huli, have handed down the tradition for generations.  They started as birdwatchers/hunters, and then started to make wigs out of human hair and stick the feathers into them, making elaborate head-dresses, mainly to show off how handsome they were.   This coupled with a large herd of pigs would entice a lady to be their wife.   The prime objective is to find a woman who will look after the pigs, tend the fields, bear children
and raise the girls.   They should have bald patches on their heads from carrying heavy loads, and broken nails for working hard.   The male children will be taken to live with their fathers so that (a) the girls are protected from the boys and kept safely with their mothers and (b) the boys will not learn the ways of the girls and will follow a manly path through life.

The Wigmen with their Plumes

Everyday dress

The Wig Men put their white base coat on, then add yellow clay colouring and red dye onto their faces, arms and legs.   They oil the rest of their bodies with various things such as sago, and oils from plants.  They then gather with their hand-held drums and start to beat out a steady rhythm, whilst jumping along in a line.   They have several attempts at getting the beat right, then when they are happy that they are synchronised they start to chant.   This goes on for some time, until they have completed their performance.   We are then invited to join them for photographs.  A fascinating insight into a long-standing tradition which is still being played out in modern times.   It will be interesting to see how many more generations will carry this on.   With the advent of mobile phones and influences from the outside world - including the addition of pheasant feathers to those of the more exotic birds of paradise which will surely dilute the authenticity of this amazing spectacle.   Whilst at the site we did see two Variable Goshawk passing by.

At the Wig School

After the show it was time to go and see how the wigs were created.   Basically, if a young man needs to raise money to get pigs to attract a wife, and he is prepared to live a clean, strict life, he can grow his hair into a wig to sell.   It takes 18 months to grow and during this time they stay at 'wig school' and must follow the rules of the school.   Every day they take water which has been placed in a bamboo tube and then had a spell cast over it by an elder.   The spell will ensure that the hair grows well.  The water has to be spat into the air over the hair and once this has been done twice, the remaining water has to be drunk.   One man said that once the spell has been cast the water is not as sweet as before.   This practise is followed three times a day.   The top of the hair is bleached paler than that underneath.   They sleep with their heads raised up from the ground by laying across a small tree trunk - the demonstration looked painful.

We were shown how the hair grows onto a frame, but remains attached to the head.   Once long enough the hair is sewn together to ensure that it does not fall apart before it is cut from the head.

The men we saw had grown their hair 3, 5 and 7 times.   The last gentleman (rather elderly) has promised himself that he will not grow it again as he would like to have a child and for that could not remain a virgin.

Showing how they sleep so the hair doesn't get flattened!

These men go through constant primping, preening and hardship to get a good price for their hair.   It is believed that it is only by following the rules that they will maintain a healthy and expensive wig.  They fold leaves up and push them into the hair to keep it healthy.

After lunch we had yet another encounter with the local culture.

                                                               


                                                                           Birding with Entourage

 We went looking for a Sooty Owl and Papuan Frogmouth.   First we stopped off at a local village where a farmer knew a couple of places where the Owl may be seen.   We stepped off the track into his files and proceeded in a rather disorderly fashion accompanied by numerous children, they helped us over streams

The children placing stepping stones for us

by building impromptu bridges from stones taken from the fields .   Through streams with the children taking us by the hand to steady us,  up steep slopes and through some woodland.   Eventually after being helped by the children we came to a small clearing where there was a large old tree with a huge gash in the trunk.   This was where the Owl could be.  First the farmer got a very long bamboo pole with a bent end which he proceeded to push up the trunk towards the hole.   When this didn't work he resorted to banging on the trunk with a large stone.

Eventually we had to give up, the Owl was not going to show itself.  So off we trouped,  by now joined with a large group of children, back the way we came.   The children were fascinated by us, wanting to stroke the inside of my forearm, looking at our hair and eyes, and delighted to see our photographs and videos of them.

Papuan Frogmouth

After much debate another land owner decided that he could show us a Papuan Frogmouth.   Off we went again, with the children still in tow, asking if they could have our umbrellas.   Once again we disappeared off the road, through more fields of butternut squash and sweet potatoes, finally crossing a stream to find not one, but two Frogmouths.   Fantastic birds to see, and a sight that really made my trip.

During the afternoon's excitement we also saw; Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Peregrine Falcon catching a pigeon, Great Woodswallow, Loria's Bird of Paradise and Western Mountain White-eye.

Birding with Entourage

With some time to spare we went back up the road to the Bailey Bridge area, where King of Saxony was on his usual perch, and a  White-breasted Fruit-dove was heard.

10 seen, 1 heard . . . .

So how many Birds of Paradise could we see in a day?

Terrestrial Orchid

It started well - after breakfast we had a stroll around the garden.   Short-tailed Paradigalla (1), Brown Sicklebill (2), Sacred Kingfisher, Common Smokey Honeyeater and Yellow-Browed Melidictes were all spotted as the day awoke.

We then left in the bus to go downhill towards the village, and within five minutes we has stopped in a very patchy piece of scrub-land with trees.   Blue Bird of Paradise (3) was our first sighting  in this rather unprepossessing habitat, a lovely male displaying and calling in a tree in the distance - great telescope views though.   Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike, Marbled Honeyeater, Red-collared Myzomelas and Papuan Flowerpecker followed in quick succession.    A female Lawes' Parotia (4) was the next BoP, followed immediately by a pair of Buff-tailed Sicklebill (5) and Black Sicklebill (6).   As we moved higher up the road towards the Tari Gap we found the male King of Saxony (7) in his perch of a couple of days ago.    Now we were at higher altitude Belford's Melidictes comes into play again.   Glossy Swiftlet were feeding overhead as usual.

Blue Bird of Paradise
Displaying

We stopped higher up the road and found Ribbon-tailed Astrapia (8), Brehm's Tiger-Parrot was the next species to delight us - initially hard to see, but after a while we managed to relocate it when longer views were enjoyed.    Stephanies' Astrapia (9), Friendly Fantail, Grey-streaked Honeyeater, Mountain Firetail (a bird I missed yesterday) was a catch up for several of us.  White-winged  Robin was in the same area as yesterday, joined by Mid-Mountain Berrypecker.   Whilst some of us went down the road to take photographs of yet another Ribbon-tailed Astrapia others went into the forest and found a Crested Bird of Paradise (10).   Superb Bird of Paradise (11) was heard.  And it wasn't even 8.30 am!!

We continued up the road towards the grassland area at the top of the range.   Our first bird here was Phil's request fulfilled - an Island Thrush, looking just like our European Blackbird.   This was followed by Papuan (Tawny) Grassbird, Pied Bushchat once again got itself on our day list, as did Long-Tailed Shrike, a handsome bird sitting high, perched on the top of a bush just waiting for some prey to alight on.

Long-tailed Shrike

McGregor's Bowerbird flew across the road ahead of us, Island Warbler and Grey Gerygone busied themselves in a nearby tree.   Brown-backed Whistler completed our list from the road.

We returned to the lodge for a pre-lunch tea/coffee and biscuit.   As we relaxed I spotted a Brahimy Kite just outside the lodge hunting in the valley, those of us present got great views.  

 During siesta time Great Woodswallow flew past and Glossy Swiftlets fed ahead of the usual early afternoon storm.

Unfortunately today's rain did not hold with the usual pattern and carried on more or less all afternoon.   We did get down to the helipad and had views of Hooded Cuckoo-shrike,  Papuan Lorikeet and Yellow-billed Lorikeet.   Some saw Black Monarch and others Papuan King-Parrot - perhaps I'll catch up tomorrow if the rain holds off long enough.

The Ambua Tari Road

Sunrise on the Tari Gap Road

Up and breakfasted by 6.15 am, we started birding in the lodge garden.   Black Sicklebill is known to visit the garden in the early morning, and sure enough within a few minutes we had a sighting.   Spotted Berryeater, Short-Tailed Paradigalla [what an amazing name that is!], Dimorphic Fantail and Sacred Kingfisher were all seen within a few minutes.   Just before we left for our morning's birding the Sicklebill flew across the valley giving us a great view.

As we set off up the road towards the Tari Gap, a Grey Wagtail flew ahead of us - one of the few species which we could see at home.   At our first stop, with the sun still coming up and casting delightful rays through nearby trees, we found Stephanie's Astrapia, Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot, Orange-billed Lorikeet,

Logging Threats to the area

Grey-streaked Honeyeater and Black-throated Honeyeater.   Despite the cool of the early morning the constant birds kept us entertained, and we gradually moved quite a long way on the road without recourse to the bus, purely following bird calls.

Our guide Joseph took us into the forest down a short muddy path, here we had great views of Crested Bird of Paradise and White-winged Robin.   Back on the road Crested Berrypecker, Mid-mountain Berrypecker and Brown-breasted Gerygone were seen by most of the group.   A Fan-tailed Cuckoo flew overhead giving good if short-lived views.

Short-tailed Paradigalla

Back in the forest we had Garnet Robin flitting frantically about us.  Lots of flight views but almost impossible to get into the binoculars.   Small Melampitta crossed the path in front of us in one quick bound and Mountain-mouse warbler and Logrunner shot in view for seconds - it seemed as if everything was determined to challenge us as the day wore on.

Little Eagle was spotted, along with Yellow-billed Lorikeet, whilst Mountain Kingfisher and Chestnut Forest Rail were added to our "heard only" list.

In the afternoon, we tried once again in the garden and managed to add Black Butcherbird, Greater Woodswallow, Papuan King-Parrot, Mountain Peltops, Papuan Mountain Pigeon and more Red-collared Myzomelas.

Rondon Ridge to Ambua

The Interior Highlands

Today we transferred from Rondon to Ambua.   After a 6 am breakfast we took a chartered flight in a small plane to the Ambua airstrip.   This is a small runway which aims uphill - an interesting experience!   We waitied to film the plane taking off again - downhill this time.   Within five minutes we had arrived at the lodge where the hydro-electricity was on the blink and we were checked into the "business" wing.   Noisy with absolutely no insulation between the two floors, but brand new and clean, it was comfortable.

Ambua Lodge gardens

We had a cup of tea by the main lodge and watched Great Woodswallow perched and calling from a nearby tree.   Pied Bushchat moved from perch to perch, utilising the roofs of the nearby rondavels as look out points.   Glossy Swiftlets and Pacific Swallow flew above us.

Before lunch we had an orientation meeting then had a walk to the helipad to start our Ambua list.   It was a slow start with not a bird to be seen or heard for some time.   Eventually a Melidictes showed it's face - we could not make up our minds between Belford's and Yellow-Browed.   We decided it could be a hybrid
of the two, but tomorrow will tell when we have our birding guide with us - today we had a stand in.

We took a walk back through the lodge and out towards a small waterfall and along the small levada which had been built to funnel the water to the hydro-electric system (currently failing!).   Here we did a lot better with Brown Sicklebill, brilliant views of Yellow-bellied Lorikeet, Red-collared Myzomela, Common Smokey Honeyeater, Friendly and Black Fantail, Canary Flycatcher,  Blue-grey Robin, Black Kite and a female Stephanie's Astrapia completed the morning's list.

Pied Bushchat

Just before lunch we had the entertainment of a marital dispute between two locals involving a lot of shouting, running and the wielding of machetes!   As far as we are aware it all ended amicably . . . .but see later.

After lunch we had a siesta then met up at 3 pm for a trip along the Ambua/Tari Gap road for some birding along the roadside.   This is an area which has proved very productive in the past but as we drove along we could see huge areas which are being cleared of trees.   It does not bode well for the future.

As the usual afternoon rain fell we sat in the bus waiting for it to ease, and as with every other afternoon so far, by 4 pm it was drying up, and we could start our walk.

We added the following birds this afternoon; Papuan Lorikeet - both usual and dark morph, Blue-capped Irifa, Crested Berrypecker a very handsome bird, Dimorphic Fantail, Ribbon-tailed Astrapia - male female and juvenile at different stages, Rufous-backed Honeyeater, displaying Brown Sicklebill, King of

The Hydro-electric Sluice

Saxony Bird of Paradise, and at the end of the afternoon at the start of the drive Phil found the male Ribbon-tailed Astrapia.

As the weather was brighter we decided to walk the last few hundred yards back to the lodge, with the bus following behind.   Dispute number two occurred when a young girl came running down the road towards us with an older man, brandishing a machete and both shouting at each other.   Every so often the woman stopped to hurl a large stone at the man, then carried on running.   They were accompanied by a large crowd laughing and enjoying the entertainment.   We have Relate - PNG deals with things in a more direct way.

King of Saxony Bird of Paradise

After a quick wash and brush up it was time for dinner, the checklist and a five minute birding session to look for Papuan Boobook.   Success within minutes -a real first for night birding, eh Colin!

Birds and Mudmen

Today we went to see the Mud Men in the Waghi Valley.        

On the way we stopped off to see the Raggiana Bird of Paradise, Black-billed Cuckoo-dove, Black Kite, Variable Goshawk, Glossy Swiftlets, Black-headed Whistler and Mountain Myzomela.   as we waited for the Mud men to get ready for their display we found Great Wood-swallow, Ornate Melidictes, Friarbird,

A traditional home

Yellow-breasted Bowerbird, Singing Starling, Long-tailed Cuckoo-shrike and Scrub White-eared Meliphaga.

The display of a traditional history tale was short, but entertaining, at the end of the display they took off their masks - the smallest child needed help as it was too heavy for him to lift off.   After the Mud Men, Women and Children had finished we had the opportunity to try on one of the masks ourselves,  John and Keith decided to give it a go.   They were very heavy but steeped in tradition and in some cases a bit frightening, with boar tusks attached to the more senior masks.

There were traditional gifts to buy including bags, mud men statues and jewellery.

The Mudmen

After we had exhausted our stay we went to a local orchid garden which unfortunately also had caged cassiowary, cockatoo, and a tree kangaroo.   Very sad to see.   Black-shouldered Kite, Upland Grassbird, Brahminy Kite, Superb Bird of Paradise, Black Fantail, Willie Wagtail and White-shouldered Fairy-wren.

The orchids were great, and after a good look around, and plenty of photographs we were on our way back to,the lodge for lunch.

Our afternoon walk was somewhat delayed due to a thunder storm, so we sat on the veranda and took tea.   We eventually made it out along the muddy paths behind the lodge, through the owners garden to see Superb BOP displaying.   In the nearby forest we found Brown-breasted Gerygone, Blue-grey Robin and Black-breasted Boatbill.

Orchid

We also tried for Jewel-babbler and Wattled Ploughbill but to no avail.

To the top of the Ridge

Up at 4.30am for a quick tea, couple of biscuits and then off up the hill at 5 am.   It was pitch black and we carried torches.   As the sun started to creep up the first birds we heard were Blue-grey Robin, followed by Lesser Ground Robin, Diamorphic Fantail, and Mountain Owlet-Nightjar.   These birds teased us
for the main part of our journey, calling out their tropical dawn chorus, but staying well out of view.

MacGregors Bowerbird - Bower

Initially our walk took us through woodland and then as the track steepened we came out onto a very slippery stone track with some steps cut into it.   Most of us had taken up the offer of a stick to help support and steady us on the trek.
We walked for about two hours then Paul, our guide, heard Brown Sicklebill and shot off ahead,  asking us to follow quickly - easier said than done given the muddy conditions.   We stopped first for Stephanie's Astrapia, and amazing bird
with long tail streamers and a bright blue throat.     Finally we got to the right area and had great views of at least two Brown Sicklebills, a Black could also be heard and although we only saw it in flight to start with, after a patient wait of some 40 minutes, we had brilliant views of this rather secretive bird.   King of Saxony quickly followed and we spent some considerable time watching these birds as they flew around us.   Friendly Fantail, Common Smoky

Rondon Ridge Lodge Gardens

Honeyeater and Papuan Lorikeet were also in this area.

As our guide had carried a cardboard box containing our breakfast, we decided to eat around 8.00 am and perched on some logs enjoying our picnic of hard boiled eggs, pineapple, papaya, orange, passion fruit, a fish cake and banana bread muffin.

We decided that we should go off in search of some smaller birds, and we took a short circular track which gleaned nothing but frustration as the clouds rolled in and the light made it impossible to find anything, let alone identify it.

Eventually we decided it was time to wend our way back towards the lodge, birding as we went.   Rufous-backed Honeyeater, Black Fantail, great views of Buff-faced Scrubwren, Regent Whistler, Red-collared Myzomela, Island Leaf-warbler, Grey-streaked Honeyeater, Nuguini White-eye, and Glossy Swiftlet
were our reward.   We also heard Superb Bird of Paradise displaying and had a quick glimpse of it flying away, and a Tiger-parrot was also calling.

Yellow-browed Meledictes in the mist

As we neared the lodge a final call from Rufous-throated Bronze-Cuckoo rang out, and a female Pied Bushchat welcomed us back home.

Muddied to the nines, we changed and had lunch, then a couple of hours R&R before our afternoon jaunt.

Unfortunately the rain fell rather generously on us in the afternoon and although we spent a couple of hours in and around the lodge grounds we only managed to see a few birds, including Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Black-throated Robin and Superb Bird of Paradise.   We also heard Wattled Ploughbill and MacGregor's Bowerbird.

PNG at Last!

Almost there

Port Moresby by 8.10am, no real sleep, an egg mayo roll for breakfast and a hectic airport to cope with.   We passed through immigration, got our Kina (the local currency which has a rather strong economic footing at present, making an already expensive trip even more financially challenging) and made for a local hotel to while away a couple of hours over a cool drink by the pool.   We birdwatched as we relaxed and saw Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, Helmeted Friarbird, Singing Starling, Tree Sparrow, Pacific Swallow, Bar-Shouldered Dove and Willie Wagtail - yes- that really is it's name, and what an excellent choice it is for a bright chirpy little fellow that flits about and generally shows off, brilliant naming for once.

The Highlands of PNG on our way to Rondon Ridge

At 11.30am we were collected from the hotel and spirited back to the airport for our internal flight to Mount Hagen.

We had already been moved to a later flight as our original had been cancelled, then this (12.30) flight was put back.   First to 12.50, then 13.10, 13.20, and finally 13.55.   We eventually left around 14.15 pm.   Too late for lunch, but an orange juice and two biscuits were provided on the flight!

On arrival at Mount Hagen, the baggage was heaped out in a free-for-all, and we were collected by Paul and his team and taken to Rondon Rodge Lodge, this journey took a couple of hours as the roads were so bad.

Rondon Ridge complete with Spirit carving

We did however see the following: Pacific Swallow, Pied Bush-Chat, Black Kite,  House Sparrow, lots more Willie Wagtail and Long- tailed Shrike.

On arrival at the  lodge, (1100 ft), we were shown around, and then left to our own devices for a couple of hours.   White-shouldered Fairy-Wren were seen just outside our room, Hooded Munia and Yellow-browed Melidectes were our final additions to the day.

Singapore here we come!

Singapore Breakfast

After a great nights' sleep, finally got up at 10 am, for an interesting breakfast of Kama toast with soft boiled eggs and tea.   The toast was sweet and rather interesting, with spread butter and also huge chunks that refused to melt - looked like cheese, but tasted odd and was definitely some sort of butter.   The eggs were barely cooked but very good and the tea excellent.

After putting the luggage into deposit for the day we went off in a mini-bus to Singapore botanical gardens, some 20 km away.   The striking things about our journey were the lack of traffic jams, the cleanliness, and the amazing architecture of the buildings.

The gardens are a great public facility, where you are free to wander around some beautiful landscapes and hopefully catch up with some birds!

Bathroom with a see-through wall!

By the Entrance we found Javan Mynah, Tree Sparrow, and Spotted Dove.   The latter being a particularly attractive dove similar in size and design to our Collared Dove.   Asian Glossy Starling were also around, with the females causing some indecision on ID to start with.

We started off looking for the rainforest area, passing by a large lake with an outdoor auditorium in an island.   This conveniently faced a banked area of ground which must be a great venue for an evening concert.   Here Olive-backed Sunbird fed on heliconia-type flowers within feet of us as we tried to capture it's beauty in a photograph.

Javan Mynah

We finally found the rainforest area, by now we were all feeling the heat and humidity a little distracting, but the prospect of some birds spurred us on.   Greater Raquet-tailed Drongo, Magpie Robin, and House Swift were spotted.

By an attractive bandstand two ladies in wedding dresses were posing for photographs - it was hard to tell if they were brides or there for a photoshoot.   Nearby were some ornamental ponds with White-breasted Waterhen creeping about on the edges.   A Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker gave us a run for our money, but eventually showed well to the group.

We carried on towards a suitable lunch stop, adding Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Collared Kingfisher and Mute Swan (on the appropriately named Swan Lake).  On this lake a sculpture of a flock of swans flying added to the stylistic ambience, and on one of the wing tips a Pacific Swallow perched, preening as

Olive-backed Sunbird

it's peers fed overhead.

Along the next part of our walk we added Plain-throated Sunbird, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Glossy Swiftlet, Arctic Warbler, Brown Flycatcher and Tree Oriole.   A monitor lizard and a couple of squirrels added themselves to our list also.

After a break for lunch, with chicken and rice or chips being the main options taken, we were off back out into the heat of the day - by now it was after 3 pm, and we were all starting to feel the effects of a days travel.   We continued onward, adding Black Swan, Lesser Whistling Duck, Pied Fantail, White-Throated Kingfisher, Black-crowned Night-heron, Brahminy Kite, Ashy Tailorbird and Hill Mynah.

Dragonfly

During the day we also found several beautiful dragonflies (all nameless so far) and two species of turtle, one the red-eared which has been released into British ponds and lakes over the years and the other a rather pretty snout-nosed variety with a flexible "skirt" around its shell.

The Auditorium

Soon it was time to find our driver and return to the airport for our flight to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea.   After we had a rather confusing couple of telephone calls to track the driver down, we were on our way back through the rush hour traffic to Changi Airport.   Baggage retrieved, hand luggage sorted out and we were soon off to Terminal 1, early check-in and a long wait for our flight.

Fed and watered, and although the flight time had been delayed until 11.40, we were off for our final destination. . . . Papua New Guinea.

We've arrived!

After a 12.15 hour flight, we sped through immigration and went straight to the Airport hotel, spotting a House Crow on the way. .
After checking in, we met up for a snack in the bar - beef, lamb and chicken satay with an excellent spicy sauce. In bed just after 9 and slept well.In case you are wondering, this won't continue to be a meal by meal account - just not much else happened.

Congratulations to Paul and Brenda who celebrated their 25th Wedding Anniversary today, and thoughts of Alan who would have been 55 today.

The adventure begins . . .

So the start of my great adventure to Papua New Guinea begins. 

The journey will be a long and tedious one, but with the excitement of a new destination to look forward to.      In addition a planned stop over in Singapore with some bird watching there should add to the excitement.

We left London at 22.05, for the 12 hour 15 minute flight to Singapore.    We were on one of the new double-decker planes (Airbus A380) which holds 470 people in the configuration we had - needless to say in the "economic class" as they called it, ie, downstairs.  With a three by three configuration though, none of us felt quite so hemmed in as with the more usual three by four by three.  

Drinks, peanuts, and probably the best airline food I've ever encountered. Ragout of chicken and mushroom with courgette, carrot and diced potatoes, with saltine crackers and cheese followed by chocolate ice cream . . . it was yummy.

The crew were attentive and brought plenty of fruit juice and water around at regular intervals which helped to keep us hydrated.

Hoping to get some sleep now . . . if the excitement doesn't get to me

p.s. Nigel's light snack at Heathrow

Sevenoaks and Bough Beech

Today I led my local RSPB Group walk at Sevenoaks KWT Reserve, and Bough Beech.

At last the birds have started to sing again, and we had a great time wandering around the reserve listening to Blackcap, Long-tailed Tit - we saw a family party of 14 at one stage - Chiffchaff and Nuthatch.   In addition from the viewpoint overlooking the lake we immediately added the following to our list: Lapwing, Canada Geese, Mute Swan, Greylag Geese, Coot, Little Egret, Cormorant, Wood Pigeon, Moorhen and Mallard.

View from the main hide

At one stage Claire spotted a bird some way off which appeared to be diving into the water and then perching back on an overhanging branch.   For some while I had the telescope on the branch but nothing was seen.

From the main hide we added Common Sandpiper, a bird which came remarkably close and gave the whole group great views, Pochard, Wigeon, Gadwall, Little Grebe, Robin and Egyptian Geese.   At this point we reconnected with Claire's early spot - a delightful Kingfisher which started off perched in front of the hide on a stone, then moved off to a nearby branch.   Eventually it ended up back where Claire had originally spotted it.

At this point we had also managed to add some non-avian species in the form of ten Red Admiral, four Comma, several Small White and Speckled Wood Butterflies.

House Martins were feeding over the lake, circling around and chattering to each other as they went.

 Small Red-eyed and Common Blue Damselfly, Carder Bee, juvenile Grass Snake and a Rat!

Red Admiral

One of the local birdwatchers told us that a Little Bittern had been spotted an hour before at the Willow Hide, so we decided that we should go on a local "twitch" to see if we could find it.

Long story short - we didn't!

Having said that two of us did see a bird fly from a willow tree as we came out of cover along a path, it was the right size and colour, but if I ask myself what I would have thought it was had I not been told that there was a Little Bittern - and I was stumped, hey ho, that's birdwatching.   We did see a Green Sandpiper at the far side of the Pool.

Three Jays flew overhead, and several Stock Dove were seen.   We also found some higher House Martins which were flying with far more purpose that those spotted earlier.  These appeared to be intent on migration and we all felt a hint of sadness that they would soon be gone for another year.

By now it was lunchtime and we took advantage of the benches and facilities at Sevenoaks before moving off to Bough Beech.

Once we had all reunited we walked to the Causeway and spent some time scanning the two areas of water.   On one side were the Cormorants, Mute Swan, Greylage and Canada Geese in great numbers, with several Great-crested Grebe accompanied by young, still bearing their stripey heads.

On the smaller, shallower area there were Teal, Black-headed Gull, Mallard, Little Egret and two Green Sandpipers.   A Hobby hunted overhead, catching dragonflies and eating on the wing.

Kingfisher

Back at the visitor centre we had ice-creams and then wandered to the new hide.   Here there was much excitement as a Kingfisher was providing a great show.   Feeding from a nearby willow tree, and seemingly unconcerned at our presence.   We watched for some time and took the opportunity to take photographs and marvel at the beautiful colours on this amazing bird.

In the top of some dead trees we found several Linnet; Swallow and House Martin flew overhead, along with a juvenile Herring Gull - much to Claire's glee.

Sunny Shellness

Bright, breezy, and glorious, a great day to be by the seaside and Shellness was our destination today.

Swallows met us as we got out of the car at the top of the road just out of Leysdown.   They were swooping over the short grass opposite the seawall, feeding up before their long journey south, and chattering to each other keeping constant contact.

Turnstone

The tide was in and the usual gull roost had taken to the recreation field, with a few Lapwing, and a Curlew joining them.   We scanned the gulls for anything apart from Black-headed - Paul found a Common Gull and as they flew over to scavenge from a car nearby, Malcolm and I thought we noticed a Mediterranean Gull.   Malcolm is rather more diligent than me and soon re-found the bird.   As we tried to get the others onto it, the whole lot flew over our heads which confirmed the identification beautifully.

On the groynes there were many turnstone, huddled together along the wooden ledges.   Others were feeding on the beach as the tide started to recede.   Herring Gull, Starling and Goldfinch were also seen.   A dozen Sandwich Terns flew past, and Oystercatchers were constantly heard as they squabbled and displayed.

Sandwich Tern

Close-up of seaweed

We moved the cars to the layby near Muswell Manor and then walked to the Ness along the sea wall.   Unfortunately the fields which are usually grassy on our right have been planted with corn (maize) this year so  there is no area for us to see the flocks of starlings and lapwing usually gathered at this time of year.   It will be interesting to see how the geese cope with the change, and obviously this will impact on both harriers and owls hunting this winter.

Wheatear

By the time we got to the end of the ness the tide had revealed a considerable amount of beach, and we took our lunch in the shelter of the sea defences watching as Cormorant, Little Egret, Ringed Plover, Black-tailed Godwit and literally hundreds of Oystercatcher went about their business, feeding greedily on the morsels left by the tide.

After lunch Irene and Sally found three Wheatear which were perching on the groynes and flying ahead of us as we carried on to the 'Little Tern colony' area.   Marsh Harrier were spotted by Malcolm, and we eventually saw both male and female.   A small flock of Linnet and a Grey Heron flew past.

Soon it was time to make our way back, with Malcolm, inspecting suitable plants for galls.